Frame Rust - What would you do? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 07-29-2005, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
Sabreman
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Frame Rust - What would you do?

My '89 islander has a really bad spot on the frame, where the rear driver's side shackle mounts. From what I have read, this is a typical spot for the frame to rust. Anyone know what the easiest way to fix it is? I know I can cut out the rusted metal and weld in new, but I thought there might be a pre-fabricated piece you can buy or something and just weld it on.

If anyone out there has fixed the same problem, please let me know how you did it, thanks.

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post #2 of 18 Old 07-29-2005, 02:24 PM
Alfons
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If you've got one really bad spot, you've probably got more that should be fixed. Go to an auto junkyard and get a bent but solid frame & then you've got all the prefabricated pieces you'll need, then a sawsall, grinder, and welder will clean up most of the bad frame areas.
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-29-2005, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
Sabreman
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There are other bad spots, but they are much more manageable. I have a certified welder coming by next week to fix those.

I was thinking the same thing about buying a junk frame and cutting the piece I need. Just not sure if it will be strong enough, being I would have to weld on such a big piece.

I'll try to post a picture and show you how bad this spot is. I don't know how I made it home when I bought it.
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post #4 of 18 Old 07-29-2005, 05:29 PM
Alfons
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Quote:
Just not sure if it will be strong enough
If the metal is good and the welding is done properly (the penetration is very important), the weld will be the strongest part of the frame. If you have a "swiss cheese" area (multiple black spots or holes in an area), you can cover that area with pieces of plate steel (welded over the area) and if you're concerned about the integrity of a whole section, you can "box" the frame member with flat steel.

Your qualified welder should know all these techniques and more (if not, find another welder).
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-29-2005, 06:05 PM
sentinal02
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can't be any worse than mine

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...t=frame+repair

RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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post #6 of 18 Old 07-29-2005, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
Sabreman
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[QUOTE=sentinal02]can't be any worse than mine

No, not that bad, but a close second. Thanks for the link, I will need to do the same thing with the shackle bushing sleeve.

Any idea why they rust so bad there?
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-03-2005, 04:35 PM
rsgweld
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bad frame

my yj 1987 frame was totaly rotted when I bought it I had to remove fuel tank and make card board templates of frame to where frame was solid then I boxed it in and solid welded also had to drill holes for bushings and welded all around of course removal of rear shakle must be done also.it took about 8 hrs to do it in a welding shop with all tools available. I think they rot out because the rear bumper closes off the end of the tubing frame and the holes in the frame alow dirt to collect and stay moist. The dirt was packed in my frame I took those bumpers off and made my own and left ends so dirt and water can escape.
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-03-2005, 04:59 PM
paintguy
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I know Blaise from U.P.F.J. Savage in PA can send you cut-offs of a YJ frame -- he is a fair guy and just tell him Brandon from Albany, NY told you about him. I think they are 75 bucks for a set of rear end frame pieces (but don't hold me to that -- just call him and ask). I think it would be a good alternative than having your welding guy fabricate them -- he can just weld them in for you.

Blaise Alackness, U.P.F.J. Owner (814) 544-7707 or (866) 340-JEEP
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-03-2005, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal02
I got you beat!
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-03-2005, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCoon
I got you beat!
nuh uh! you can see daylight through mine!





Sabre, as far as why they rot out there, i think rsg hit it. water/salt/dirt/etc gets into the frame further up where the tow chain holes are and gets down to the end were the crossmember caps off the frame. eventually it just eats through from the inside.

RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-30-2010, 09:36 AM
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-30-2010, 02:10 PM
panman
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the box frame is stronger,but holds on to anything it can. sand,dirt,so on so on. as far as ny pinhole repairs you were talking about, trim out as much of the bad metal, or the patch will end up with problems, clean down to good metal,and use "weldable primer" under any patches. good luck, i've been down that road, had to make a section to rebolt the skidplate back in on the left rail.
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-30-2010, 02:19 PM
Rocky_Cosmark
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quadratec has the replacement metal fabricated for the rear shackle areas,i believe around $75 last time i saw
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-30-2010, 07:40 PM
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The auto rust tech parts at Quadratec... Not an expert welder here and did my own work...Welding shop wanted over $800

Piece of cake...sort of...

did the floor pans too
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-30-2010, 07:58 PM
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