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Unread 08-15-2007, 07:40 PM   #1
The Rat
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Frame repair underway!

I'll let the pictures do most of the talking

Before:











After some cutting:


The top part has been cut away.


We'll finish Friday:



Casualty of the day:



The plan for Friday is to weld in a 1 1/4" black steel tube in that hole made by the torch then put the top on, then put the side on and weld the other end of the tube, weld it all together inside and out, then put the bottom on, then a nice rattlecan job and I'll wire brush it someday when I have enough funds for POR-15.


Oh yeah, and I dunno if I mentioned it, but one of the reasons I failed MA inspection was cuz my tailpipe was rotted away so it was split in half, not a problem anymore (and I won't hit any rocks):


Anyone wanna make this click free, go for it.
Comments, suggestions, etc. welcome.

Also if anyone could tell me where to get a new bushing and sleeve for my stock shackles without ordering new ones (If I need new ones I'll go MORE 5/8...anything that is endorsed that much must be good but I'm trying to stick to a budget).

Been up since 6am today, got work tonight til tomorrow at 9am...Good thing I'm not working on it tomorrow, I'll need some SLEEP.

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Unread 08-15-2007, 07:42 PM   #2
mean90yj
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my first suggestion would be just get a whole new frame, i wouldn't even bother restoring that one. lol.
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Unread 08-15-2007, 07:43 PM   #3
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Funny story, the rest of the frame is really solid, just that part was rotted away completely.
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Unread 08-15-2007, 08:21 PM   #4
VABYJ
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that's mass for you, glad i bought a va jeep. tired of the doors looking like they're suffering from herpes outbreaks on all my northern cars.
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Unread 08-15-2007, 08:28 PM   #5
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I know, huh. I was seriously wondering what the hell the PO did to get that one spot the most rusted and rotted spot on the Jeep. The only other rot on it is the drivers side floor (cake to fix) and over the fender flares on the front (smaller than dime sized holes, my screwdriver wouldn't even fit in there. The fenders will be fixed when I get my hands on some TJ flares and the floor will be done when I get my hands on a welder of my own.
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Unread 08-15-2007, 09:19 PM   #6
BMiller92YJ
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OUCH! Good work so far.....I would have suggested getting a new frame too, but at the same time I want to see how this comes out
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Unread 08-15-2007, 09:50 PM   #7
leftlanetruckin
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been there, done that.....my main regret was not getting a new frame in the first place. i did a frame off, and it still fell apart while wheeling it.....
and i hate to say it, but my old frame wasnt as bad as what you have right there...
saying the rest of the frame is totally rust free, would be nothing short of a miracle.

good luck

martin
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Unread 08-16-2007, 02:52 AM   #8
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I know what you're talking about...but it was 125 beans per side + shipping.
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Unread 08-16-2007, 02:59 AM   #9
The Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin
been there, done that.....my main regret was not getting a new frame in the first place. i did a frame off, and it still fell apart while wheeling it.....
and i hate to say it, but my old frame wasnt as bad as what you have right there...
saying the rest of the frame is totally rust free, would be nothing short of a miracle.

good luck

martin

I toyed with the idea of a new frame...but if I was gonna go that route I would end up spending way more than I should on it because with the frame off it's just so easy to do everything. Plus this is my DD and can't be off the road for more than a few days.


It just dawned on me that I should get another jack under the other side to jack it up and make sure it'll sit level all the way across, that way I don't wind up with a crooked welded frame. I'll get on that tomorrow.
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Unread 08-16-2007, 05:04 AM   #10
dgm5186
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Hey man, good luck with that frame repair! I have the exact same problem on mine but not nearly as bad. Mine still had some metal left towards the back haha! Anyways I was toying with the idea of doing it myself, but given it's the frame... and my life depends on it... and I have never really welded before. I thought I would let a professional shop do it. They do Jeeps all the time so they are pros at it. Only cost me 225 too. Getting it done this coming Monday. Again, good luck!

~Dan
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Unread 08-16-2007, 07:29 AM   #11
The Rat
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225 isn't bad. I did the grunt work and am having a guy I work with do the welding (professional welder) for the cost of materials. I think my tally so far is somewhere around...I dunno, let's see:

3 sheets of 1/4" steel: $10
1 1/4" steel tube cut to 2 1/2" long: FREE (the old guy at Lowe's didn't understand the concept of buying by the foot so he gave them to me for free.)
New jackstands, angle grinder, welders gloves, glasses: $100
Disposable materials (cutting wheels, wire, etc.): ~$15
Gas to get to and from Lowe's: ~$.75 (I live on the same street)
Time: $0

So really my repair is at a total of $25 bucks because the expensive stuff I needed anyway and will be able to reuse, this just gave me an excuse to buy it.
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Unread 08-16-2007, 12:55 PM   #12
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Question.

Tomorrow I'm gonna be finishing up the frame repair, and it only sounds obvious that I want the frame to be level straight across (something that I most likely lost when I cut the frame completely). Anyway, what I was going to do was I was gonna jack up the other side to the same height and put it up on a jackstand as the other side is, then see if the bumper in the rear is level (if it is then I'm all set from there to weld). If the bumper isn't level I'll jack up the rear of the frame where I'm welding until it is level, then jackstand it, measure from a landmark on the uncut side to the ground, then from the same landmark (say, the large oval shape hole) on the other side and they should be equal...if not I will adjust. Does all that sound right or would you do something different?

Also, the jury is still out on my first question about the frame bushing, if anyone has an answer that would be FABulous (GET IT!? JOKES!). Seriously though, even if I can get one from AutoZone and put it in there until I have the funds to spend freely (I have the emergency fund, but if it ain't an emergency then no need to spend it yet) that would be cool too.

Thanks guys.
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Unread 08-16-2007, 01:19 PM   #13
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It seems to me that the body mounts will be holding your bumper straight, so your main concern will be the bushing mount. If that's off you will have an issue with the jeep sitting level. Anything else probably can withstand a margin of error.
I went through this too, mine is holding up well so far. I did mine one side at a time to keep the bushing mount in one spot. (it was never all the way removed).
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Unread 08-16-2007, 01:29 PM   #14
The Rat
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That's why I'm gonna measure from the oval hole to the ground...if that is sitting level as well as the bumper then I should be all lined up. The bushing mounting hole should be within less than 1/4" of its original position (top of the hole starts at 1" down from the middle of the plate that I hadn't cut, then 1 1/4" down is where it stops, the hole is cut large enough to fit the tube into it which will be welded in). Then once everything is back together I'll jack it up again, jackstand it on top of some cinder blocks so I know the surface is level and see if it sits level, which it should because I measured like crazy.
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Unread 08-17-2007, 06:37 AM   #15
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bump, hoping for more feedback before I get to it in a few hours.
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