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Unread 04-14-2005, 07:41 AM   #16
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrclimber
I will definately por-15 my frame this summer so I never have to do that
yeah, it's definitely worth the effort to prevent this stuff before it gets this bad. especially for those of us in the north. depending on where the rust starts you can end up with some challanging fitment and alignment problems if you have to cut out the entire frame. then you need to worry about if your new piece is straight, if the holes are in the right place, etc etc. at least here i was able to salvage the upper part of the frame i know that it's still aligned. the rear bushing sleeve may be a hair off (it's definitely within 1/4" of it's original location though) but even if it is, the shackle will allow for some adjustment in the spring side to side/front to back and as for up and down, it would be like doing a shackle lift or drop if it's out of place so the actual difference in height would only be half of whatever it's off by. so at the most it's only 1/8" different than the other side. you can get that much variation from your tires so i'm not worried about that. all in all it wasn't too bad. definitely an involved project, and if your fab skills aren't that great then you'll definitely want to build your replacement piece before cutting any of the frame. ideally you would want to catch the problem early so you could just Por over the bad and plate over it with new metal. in my case that was really out of the question since there was nothing along the bottom half of the frame that was solid enough to weld to. but if you can do it that's the way to go. for those of you who are going to attempt this, set aside several days to finish this project. it took me a good 24+ hours of actual work time to get to this point and i still have to put the tank back in and button everything up. measure everything twice before welding and if you don't have a lot of practice welding, don't start cutting the frame until you do. there's a lot of out of position welding here, particularly on the inside of the rail, so be sure to practice some strange positions. try holding the gun/stick in your off hand, do some up/down welds, weld upside down, etc. practicing those kinds of welds on this project isn't exactly a good idea. afterall you don't want to be blowing holes in the frame and have to start all over again. if you know someone who can weld very well, ask them to come over for that part. get everything mocked up and clamped in position and then let them do the welding.

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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 04-14-2005, 09:14 PM   #17
sentinal02
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well, got everything bolted back into place and the jeep is back on the road. so far so good. haven't really gone anywhere with it yet, but it hasn't fallen apart on me yet. gonna do some driving tomorrow and if it holds up to normal back roads (some of them around here are pretty rough) then i'll take it out to a new seasonal maintenance road i came across last weekend and see how it stands up to that. what little i saw was pretty rough with some small (about 1-1.5' deep) washouts where i can do some flexing and some off camber stuff so i can see how it stands up to some side loading. if all goes well i'll be wheeling it at paragon on the 30th.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 04-15-2005, 06:29 AM   #18
Upstate Chili
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Great job
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Unread 04-15-2005, 07:15 AM   #19
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I just wanted to throw this out there for the folks that do not have the tools/skill to perform what sentinal02 is doing (which by the way is pretty awesome).

If anyone has the same problem of a rotting frame near the rear shackles, you can purchase a pair of frame pieces cut from a Wrangler frame for about 75 bucks for the pair. A lot of wranglers dont rust there but in other spots on the frame so you can get those back two sections pretty cheap. Then, you can weld them on yourself, or have somebody do it for you -- it makes the cost of the repair a lot less if you are on a budget and do not have the skills to manufacture pieces of a box frame.

Anyone needing those frame pieces can contact Blaise Alackness at U.P.F.J. Salvage in Roulette, PA at 1-866-340-JEEP. Just let him know Brandon From Albany, NY referred you to him. He has great prices on Wrangler parts and is reliable and honest.

Thanks for listening to my three cents.
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Unread 04-15-2005, 04:31 PM   #20
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintguy
I just wanted to throw this out there for the folks that do not have the tools/skill to perform what sentinal02 is doing (which by the way is pretty awesome).

If anyone has the same problem of a rotting frame near the rear shackles, you can purchase a pair of frame pieces cut from a Wrangler frame for about 75 bucks for the pair. A lot of wranglers dont rust there but in other spots on the frame so you can get those back two sections pretty cheap. Then, you can weld them on yourself, or have somebody do it for you -- it makes the cost of the repair a lot less if you are on a budget and do not have the skills to manufacture pieces of a box frame.

Anyone needing those frame pieces can contact Blaise Alackness at U.P.F.J. Salvage in Roulette, PA at 1-866-340-JEEP. Just let him know Brandon From Albany, NY referred you to him. He has great prices on Wrangler parts and is reliable and honest.

Thanks for listening to my three cents.

oh sure, now he tells me where i can find these things. i was looking around but couldn't find anyone near by who had a decent frame in that area. seems to be a very common spot for rust. wonder why i can see it getting hit with the salt from the rear tires, but why is it mainly the pass side. my driver side is still rock solid in that spot. weird.

anyway, took the jeep for some light wheeling. just some washed out roads and crater like pot holes, but so far it's holding nicely. i didn't slam it through them, but then i wouldn't even if the frame was solid so... more testing to come over the weekend. now i have to get my aussie installed and i'll be ready for paragon!
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 04-15-2005, 04:54 PM   #21
OlllllllO Jeep1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal02
oh sure, now he tells me where i can find these things. i was looking around but couldn't find anyone near by who had a decent frame in that area. seems to be a very common spot for rust. wonder why i can see it getting hit with the salt from the rear tires, but why is it mainly the pass side. my driver side is still rock solid in that spot. weird.

anyway, took the jeep for some light wheeling. just some washed out roads and crater like pot holes, but so far it's holding nicely. i didn't slam it through them, but then i wouldn't even if the frame was solid so... more testing to come over the weekend. now i have to get my aussie installed and i'll be ready for paragon!
Sentinal02
Mine is the other way around. Mine is the driver but nowhere as near as bad. Mine has a hole on the bottom of the frame a few inches in length and almost as wide as the frame. I seen a Wrangler in the yard here and was thinking of asking how much to cut that frame piece off. Then again since the extent of my rust isnt that bad maybe I will just try to patch the bottom. What do you think? I know yoy even mentioned that you didnt remove that top portion to keep the frame specs. I suppose that I could try to patch it and also buy the frame portion. I will have to ask the if they will cut it out and how much tommorow.

I think the reason that the portion of the frame rusts there is that water and salt gets kicked up into that silly little hole in the side there and resides into the back of the frame where there isnt anyway for it to drain. I am thinking about drilling a small drain hole on the good side of my frame.
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Unread 04-15-2005, 07:51 PM   #22
sentinal02
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since yours is just on the bottom, you might be able to do something like mine with some 2"x3"x1/8" rectangle. the reason i didn't use the rect tubing is because i had to cut so much out. the rust had progressed up the curved part of the frame and there was no way i could bend the tubing to conform. if your hole doesn't extend into the steeper angled portion of the frame you could cut the tubing about 1.5" up the 2" side (or whatever length clears the bottom of the top bolt on the shackle) and slide it over the bottom half of the frame and weld it lengthwise. just make sure you have 3" between the arms of the shackles. mine are aftermarket with BDS springs. but the stock bushings still measure 3" so you should be ok even with stock shackles. if not, you could go with 1/16" wall tubing instead. if the hole starts up the steeper side you might be better just using some 2.5-3" flat stock like i did for the bottom panel and welding right over the existing frame. it kind of depends on what the lower corners of the frame are like. if they're rusted then you won't get a weld that will hold anything. the closer you get to the hole the thinner the base metal becomes until there's nothing left.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 04-16-2005, 05:48 AM   #23
drew2000
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Wow....that's awesome, good work!

Drew
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Unread 04-16-2005, 08:26 PM   #24
sentinal02
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well, did a little off roading today. nothing worse than fire roads, but that's about all there is around here. i'm happy to say that the frame has held up without so much as a flinch. here's some pics.

my favorite sign



some shots of the "road"






as you can see, nothing 2wd couldn't handle but it was rough enough to get the suspension moving. found a little ditch to do some flexing in:





i did find that my new front brake lines are a bit shorter than the old set (had to replace them for the inspection over the winter) so i'm going to try relocating them below the frame rail before i do any more flexing. so all is well and i'm chalking this repair up as a success! the real test will be the 30th, but i'll continue testing until then.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 04-30-2005, 09:05 PM   #25
sentinal02
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well, a full day of wheeling greens and blues at paragon and the frame never complained. i'd say that this fix is a success!






and on a side note, the new aussie was well worth the money
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 05-02-2005, 08:15 AM   #26
Wif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal02
... [

.....
I think I see a crack forming on the d/s of the frame ..
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Unread 05-02-2005, 07:46 PM   #27
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Jeepster
I think I see a crack forming on the d/s of the frame ..
not last time i checked
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 05-02-2005, 10:56 PM   #28
Wif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sentinal02
not last time i checked
just kidding ya .. nice repair job ..
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Unread 05-22-2005, 04:16 PM   #29
xeon
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Nice work Sen. Hey Look I am in the background of one of the pictures... haha yea that was a good day!
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Unread 06-02-2007, 09:42 AM   #30
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Wow, you did an awesome job on that. Very nice!

I have the same problem except its on both rear sides. I have neither the time nor the equipment to do something like that so I'm having a shop do it for me. It's gonna be pricey but the frame needs it bad. It's not at the point where it will break anytime soon, but I don't want to wait till then, obviously. I think the rust is mostly because of road salt and the Jeep probably sat in grass or something for a while before I bought it. The rust only showed up when I started poking around...it looked perfect when I bought it, but under the under-coating there was a surprise....ah well.

Great job again.
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