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Unread 05-04-2011, 07:04 AM   #1
soonermatt
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Ford 8.8 quick check list...please review my plan?

I've found a Ford 8.8" 4L10 for $250 fairly close to my house.

Here's my plan:

1. Buy this thing, load it up in my other Explorer with the seats folded down. I'll put some ply wood in.
2. Set it up on jack stands, brush it to bare metal.
3. Take some 11 gauge 2x4 and make my own hardware to replace is on my D35. Weld that where it needs to be.
4. Plan on removing the shim I have in my Rough Country springs.
5. Build a "rig" out of a board which lines up with the springs on the bottom and the shock perches on the top. I'll use this to center and check what I weld.
6. Remove calipers, clean them up, paint them, remove pads.
7. Pull diff cover, brush it, paint it silver, replace with non-synthetic gear oil.
8. Buy new U-joint which is 1310 and [will do this research later] which will adapt my existing stock drive shaft to the 8.8.
9. Use existing driveshaft and slip yoke but plan on replacing later.

The next month:
1. Aussie locker in front D30.
2. Jeg "soft 8s". (these are cheaper and have less backspacing)

The following month:
1. SYE
2. Double cardon drive shaft made at a local shop using my existing shaft.

How does this sound?

Can I load and unload this axle from my Explorer?

I have 5" of suspension lift on my stock drive shaft and slip yoke. This longer diff housing should work just fine with my slip yoke/stock drive shaft for now...shouldn't it?

Anything I'm missing?

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Unread 05-04-2011, 07:36 AM   #2
Louie4
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Sounds good to me. I just set mine up on sawhorses and cut the perches off to be re-used then I cut the shock mounts off the spring plates and put shock tabs on. When I set it up I just measured the flange to the outside of the perch on either side to center it. Then I set my angle with an angle finder and tacked.

What are you plans for the brake lines? Some will say I did mine in a roundabout way but it looks clean and I'm happy with it.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 08:06 AM   #3
Destr0
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The only thing you may want to re-consider is if you are going to go SYE/CV shaft you may want to do it and the 8.8 install at the same time so you do not have to weld/shim your spring perches twice. The slip yoke requires the DS and TC output to be at the same angle (slightly less at rest to account for driveline torque). The SYE/CV shaft requires the DS to be pointed a couple degrees above the TC output.

With 5" of lift these two angles will probably not be very close and the right way to do it would be to cut the perches off (again) and re-weld. You may be able to get away with just shimming.

Just my thoughts on the matter, but other than that consideration you should be just fine.

And as for the 8.8 being longer than the D35- it is a touch longer, but it is also offset more so it comes out to almost a wash (mine was like 3/8" difference in DS length).

If it were me I would wait on the locker/wheels and do the SYE/CV shaft and 8.8 at the same time. This will keep you from doing some of the same work twice (and only puts your other toys back a month).
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:07 AM   #4
Louie4
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This thread has a lot of good pics and info:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...inally-636291/
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:17 AM   #5
soonermatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
This thread has a lot of good pics and info:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...inally-636291/
Thanks. I remember reading this. I love the guy who had his in his closet.

It looks I'll need to see what I come up with and may wait and do the SYE/CV shaft at the same time. It could actually save money in the long run.

Maybe I'll get the axle this month, clean prep and weld everything. Then start the build in May when I get a SYE and shaft. This may make more sense. We'll see how much self control I can have with waiting. (It's usually not very much.)
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:35 AM   #6
Poke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonermatt View Post
Anything I'm missing?
experience.

Do not set your pinion angle and then install an SYE 2 months later. think about this...

set rear axle in
set perches on
align it with tape measure
u-bolts and plates on lightly
wheels on
mess with pinion angle for an hour
tack weld
wheels off
undo u-bolts and plates
remove 8.8
weld
re-install 8.8
bolts
hook up brakes
drive shaft



then less than 10 weeks later...


undo u-bolts and plates
un hook brakes
un do drive shaft
remove 8.8
cut perches off for an hour or more
pull transfer case
spend night on SYE install

set rear axle in
set perches on
align it with tape measure
u-bolts and plates on lightly
wheels on
mess with pinion angle for an hour
tack weld
wheels off
undo u-bolts and plates
remove 8.8
weld
re-install 8.8
bolts
hook up brakes
drive shaft


forget having to clean up where you cut off the perches and re-painting it again.


Way too much junk to force yourself into doing twice. makes no sense.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:41 AM   #7
imstillatwork
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I would do 2 things different

1) #5, I would measure from the axle and use the axle as the reference using the D35 spring to spring distance and shock mount spacing. No need to build rigging, and it's going to be dead spot on.

2) SYE & DC shaft. Just like Destr0 said. This will change your desired pinion angle, so do this at the same time you do the 8.8, or you'll be forced back into shims or cut/weld the spring perches and shock mounts.

Also, two of the ford explorer short soft lines (left, right, can't remember..) will mate up to the existing YJ hard line.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:41 AM   #8
imstillatwork
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OK, so I'm late to the party. That's what I get for typing a reply and hitting send 15 minutes later.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:45 AM   #9
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load and unload the axle with a friend. I did just did a Sterling 10.25 solo and it was not cool... has a about 250lbs on the 8.8 though.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:54 AM   #10
sebastian22
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A few tips..

Take a tarp when you go pick it up if youre loading it in your explorer, sometimes they can leak stinky old gear oil.

If you are careful when you cut off the spring perches, you can reuse them.

Buy or make 1/4" thick shock mounts.

Get rid of the shims on the springs for sure.

To center the axle, measure the distance from outside of the spring to the inside of the dust shield where the axle bolts to it. Measure both side and make adjustments until the measurements are exactly the same.

The type of gear oil that is factory recommended for that axle is not cheep. If you plan on wheeling it, chances are you will destroy the diff cover very quickly and have to replace it, and your gear oil. I would strongly suggest you upgrade to a thicker cover.

The biggest suggestion i can give is what Poke said....do the SYE first, then do the 8.8 and set the driveline angle. this is the way i did it, SYE sat, 8.8 sunday. makes no sense to do the 8.8 first, set the pinon angle, then do the SYE which will change the pinon angle and then it will be off. now what? you may have to cut off your perches and reweld them or add shims? no worth it. i know these parts are expensive, it took me a years worth of collecting parts but since i put them all in the right sequence i have never had a problem with any of these parts.

Best of luck.
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Unread 05-04-2011, 09:57 AM   #11
sebastian22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
This thread has a lot of good pics and info:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...inally-636291/
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Unread 05-04-2011, 10:43 AM   #12
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian22 View Post
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Unread 05-04-2011, 12:37 PM   #13
jeepster93
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Weld your tubes!
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Unread 05-04-2011, 07:29 PM   #14
RockWoRM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonermatt View Post
I've found a Ford 8.8" 4L10 for $250 fairly close to my house.

Here's my plan:

1. Buy this thing, load it up in my other Explorer with the seats folded down. I'll put some ply wood in.
2. Set it up on jack stands, brush it to bare metal.
3. Take some 11 gauge 2x4 and make my own hardware to replace is on my D35. Weld that where it needs to be.
4. Plan on removing the shim I have in my Rough Country springs.
5. Build a "rig" out of a board which lines up with the springs on the bottom and the shock perches on the top. I'll use this to center and check what I weld.
6. Remove calipers, clean them up, paint them, remove pads.
7. Pull diff cover, brush it, paint it silver, replace with non-synthetic gear oil.
8. Buy new U-joint which is 1310 and [will do this research later] which will adapt my existing stock drive shaft to the 8.8.
9. Use existing driveshaft and slip yoke but plan on replacing later.

The next month:
1. Aussie locker in front D30.
2. Jeg "soft 8s". (these are cheaper and have less backspacing)

The following month:
1. SYE
2. Double cardon drive shaft made at a local shop using my existing shaft.

How does this sound?

Can I load and unload this axle from my Explorer?

I have 5" of suspension lift on my stock drive shaft and slip yoke. This longer diff housing should work just fine with my slip yoke/stock drive shaft for now...shouldn't it?

Anything I'm missing?
You can read the link Louie provided, and you can see I was saying the same thing back then as I'll say now... simply check your current 8.8 perch location and measure outboard 9/16" @ each side. This will make up the difference of the 8.8 being 1 1/8" shorter than the turdy5. Scribe or pre-mark this location for the new perch's. Remove the 8.8 perch's. That is all you have to do. Mock it up and set your pinion accordingly.



WRM
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Unread 05-04-2011, 08:27 PM   #15
outlaw481
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Only thing I can add is just get the mopar perches if your spring under and save yourself the headache...I think they were $9 bucks from summit...I'm sure you can get them locally for under $10 or $12 bucks...I tried saving a set awhile back but they were mangled. The time and effort I spent trying not to trash them just wasn't worth the money when I could have ground them off and been done with it in the first place.
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