Ford 8.8 questions - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
yjJEEPyj
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Ford 8.8 questions

Hey I'm looking in my local junk yards for a Ford 8.8 and found a 2000. They are not sure on the gearing yet there going to Pull the codes for me today. But they said they would sell it for 300$. Does that seam right to u guys? And were do I get the new mounts to weld on? Track bar.. shock and leaf mounts? And just double checking.. this will b a 5x4 1/2 lug pattern right? Thats the reason I'm goin with the 8.8 cuz I doNT want to have to buy new wheels.. thanks JK!

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post #2 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Ment to say thanks JF!!
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:03 AM
jbolty
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First, make sure it's from an explorer. Ford used the 8.8 in numerous other applications and they are not all the same; everything from mustangs, to trucks, to crown vics, to Explorer sport-trak (based on a ranger pickup base and not the same) and others.

If it's from an an explorer or mercury mountaineer it will have 31 spline axle shafts, be the right bolt pattern and the right width.

$300 is about right.

lot's of good info here.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...inally-636291/

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post #4 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
yjJEEPyj
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ok thanks! and yea it's in a 2000 explorer. does the engine matter? does the axle vary between a v6 and v8?
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post #5 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjJEEPyj View Post
ok thanks! and yea it's in a 2000 explorer. does the engine matter? does the axle vary between a v6 and v8?
no. I have heard lots of junkyards charging extra for ones they claim are from a v8 but those people are crooks. there is no difference. if they try to pull that ask them to explain and show you the differences; it will be good entertainment.

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post #6 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
yjJEEPyj
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lol alright sounds good! oh and if i get a 8.8 i'll prob b redoing my gearing.. any rcomendations? i was thinking 4:10.. do alot of pavement driving. but still alot of off roading. i have 35x12.50 tires 4" lift. v6 auto
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:42 AM
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I run 4.10's and it is a reasonable mix between offroad and onroad driving with 35's. Mine is a manual so the tranny gears are going to be a bit different, so other auto owners may have different ideas for you.

www.RCPFA.com
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:47 AM
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4.10's are available in the axles as stock, so if that's the ratio you want, get one that has it already. I'm hoping to order mine next week. I've been watching their prices for a few months and they've come down to ~$200 locally WITH 4.10's. They were (and still are from some places) $300+, so if it's in good shape you've got a fair deal.

As for brackets and tabs, your local 4x4 shop should be able to supply them for you. My local guys are about $7 per shock tab (need 4 per axle) and $15-20 per spring mount (need 2). Be aware that the axle tubes are bigger on the 8.8 and will drop the back end of the Jeep 5/8". To maintain the same height, you should look at buying longer shackles.

Also, please read all you can on mounting the 8.8. Specific attention must be made to the pinion angle. If you're not running a SYE, you will need to measure your driveline and match the transfer output to the pinion angles, or you'll get vibrations. If you have a slip-yolk eliminator, you just point the pinion directly at the transfer case output.

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post #9 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjJEEPyj View Post
v6 auto
lawlz V6 (engine swap?)

300 sounds about right for the 8.8, in my area they sell for about that at the junkyards and on CL.

hardly any of them have 4.10s though.


and yes, they guy who mentioned that some junkyards will charge more for V8 axles is correct. i've called a couple guys out on it and they couldn't counteract that with proof, just like the car dealers... i had enough time to screw with them but not enough money to buy.

yes i was that bored...

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post #10 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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haha alright cool. and yea even if it doesnt have 4;10 i think im gona put new gearing in anyways.

PS. i like your sig!
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 09:07 AM
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I'm in Austin and have seen them go for $150 to $300. I just picked up one out of a 1994 so it has drum brakes for $60 and it is the limited slip. They had one that had disc brakes it was $125 but no locker. Also look on craigslist, I have seen people sale them on there for $150

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post #12 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 09:11 AM
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If you are planning to go with 4:10 gears then wait until you find one with those already. There is no reason to spend several hundred on regearing just because you're impatient.

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post #13 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjJEEPyj View Post
And were do I get the new mounts to weld on? Track bar.. shock and leaf mounts?
Is there any reason you want/need a track bar? Most guys junk them.

Shocks can be located/welded just about anywhere on the tube in line with the upper mounts. However, if you do move them up, keep in mind this will lessen your shock size/travel.

Leaf perchs' need to be relocated/welded. 8.8 is 1.250" overall shorter than turdy 5. Move new perch's outboard 9/16" each side and you're good to go. Set pinion accordingly.



WRM

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post #14 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
yjJEEPyj
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rockWorm i noticed u have a detroit in the rear? how do u like that? i'v been thinking about one of thoes after i get my axle. do u do much pavement/interstate driving?
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-02-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by anarchychoppers View Post
I just picked up one out of a 1994 so it has drum brakes for $60 and it is the limited slip. They had one that had disc brakes it was $125 but no locker.
Just for the record, a limited slip is NOT a locker (Please refer to sig). Nothing wrong with the drum brakes though Discs are great but certainly not necessary.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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