Ford 8.8 Axle Swap - Replace Diff Bearings? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-03-2013, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
tom_sprecher
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Ford 8.8 Axle Swap - Replace Diff Bearings?

On Friday I picked up an 8.8 with 4L10 gears to swap out the Dana 35. It came out of an explorer with 135K miles. Should I replace any of the following?

carrier bearings
pinion bearings
pinion seal
axle bearings
axle seals

If you put the shims back in the same locations the contact pattern would not change, correct?

<<< has done a couple of axles before and will have to do the Dana 30 anyway.


Tom
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-03-2013, 09:32 AM
jbolty
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I would leave it alone unless it's leaking at the seals. If not then there is probably nothing wrong with the bearings.

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post #3 of 11 Old 02-03-2013, 10:26 AM
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-03-2013, 10:58 AM
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The bearings are hard to get out anyhow,so as Canman said...

If you put the shims exactly where the came from, the pattern should be the same.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
tom_sprecher
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I plan on welding the tubes and housing and have been told it is best to do that on an empty housing.

Is that the consensus?

Tom
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 03:59 PM
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I welded my tubes in small stages. An inch or 2 at a time, never letting it get hot. took a 1/2 hour or so but no worries. Did it with full, less lube(no cover on it)diff.
Used a stick welder, 240 volt, and nickel rods. (had to rent the welder as my 120v wire welder was not able to do it right)
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 04:38 PM
jason280
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Quote:
Used a stick welder, 240 volt, and nickel rods.
Any issues with the welds cracking? I used .045 solid MIG wire (ER70s?) on the last 8.8 I built, but I have been thinking about using nickel with my DC stick machine on my next build. I never had issues with the .045 welds, but I ended up selling the Jeep so I have no idea what the long term results have been welding on the pumpkin.
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 04:43 PM
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Before I got my welder my friend helped me weld mine up. He used a a 120 amp Miller I believe, I know it was small. He did 3 separate welds on the tube/housing on each side and everything turned out great. I've beat on my 8.8 pretty good and everything looks fine a year later.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
tom_sprecher
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After spending half a day searching and reading there are many opinions on how to correctly weld the tube to housing joint. Tubes are steel and housing is cast steel. Here are some recommendations.

- MIG w/standard wire
- MIG with some special wire
- preheat it before welding
- no need to preheat
- 7018 stick weld it
- high nickle stick weld it
- JB weld it ( just kidding)

Some say use a fixture to prevent warping. Some say they have never used a fixture and never had a problem. I have to weld spring perches and shock mounts on anyway and if it gets warped I'll take it somewhere and get it straightened.

Some say take the thing apart before you weld anything to prevent heat or scale from damaging the bearings.

I'm confused.

Tom
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 07:15 AM
Randonexplosion
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As long as the housing isnt glowing bright red just go for it bro ! I even left my junkyard brake pads and spraypainted rotors on mine. Made it bolt up, made the brakes work and drove it. If it aint broke dont fix it
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 07:31 AM
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I used 7018 rod, tacked the perches then welded a little on each and moved around to keep the heat down. probably didn't need to but better safe than sorry. one thing in your post, pretty sure that IF you do manage to warp it you can't straighten it.

Do everything with a positive attitude, it won't always work but you'll piss enough people off to make it worthwhile.

the voices aren't real but they sure have good ideas.
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