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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:28 PM   #1
SimonTuffGuy
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Flooded Jeep - What to check/replace?

Long story short (until I get the pictures of the event), took my Jeep into Lake Christy at Rausch and ended up stuck in the middle. Water flooded in, was up in the dash, flooded the center console, CB, etc.

Got pulled out and started working. Pulled the plugs, cranked it to get all the water out, and got it fired up while we were there. Got it out of the lake area and back onto the trails without a check engine light or anything.

So, the Jeep is out back... I've got some fluids to replace and I'm just checking in with the experts to make sure that I've got everything in place that I'll need for my day tomorrow. Or, to see if I'm missing anthing.

My plans are to:

- Replace fluids in the axles (stock dana 30 and 35) - According to the FAQ, it says I need 80 weight gear oil for them. Dana 30 = 2.5 pints and Dana 35 = 3.5 pints... I picked up 80w-90 GL-5. Will this work alright?

- Replace fluids in the transmission (5-speed manual) - Can someone verify what I've got from AX-5, AX-15, etc? I've looked at the specs from the VIN search I did and it wasn't clear. ( DBBC - All Manual Transmissions, DDQ - 5-Speed Manual Transmission, DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System). Again, from the FAQ, it says to use 80w gear oil... Again, I was going to use the 80w-90 GL-5 fluid. Will this work? (From some of the posts, it seems like 10w-30 can go in here too? Does it matter? Should I swap out the gear oil in place of 10w-30 instead?)

- Replace fluids in the transfer case - ATF-4, which is what I picked up.

- Replace engine oil and filter - Got 6 quarts of 10w-30 and a new filter ready to go.

- Dry gas into the tank, just incase anything got in there (it didn't seem to be any higher on my gauge than it was before), wouldn't hurt anyways.

-Replace air filter

Besides that... It's just a matter of the inside drying out at this point. Seems like the dash is drying out just fine, the seats are still damp, but having a nice warm day today helped them a good bit.

What else is there to check? Should I do the plugs and distributer cap, etc while I'm tearing stuff apart?

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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:31 PM   #2
Allen52105
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you have a AX-15... 90 wt is best
the fluid you have for the Diffs will work
ATF will work in your transfer case
correct on oil/filter
you might as well pull the distributer cap and dry it out.
Check your starter as well, I know when I went though water it got to my starter and I had to replace it. double check your fuses also to see if you happened to get any shorts when the water went to any electrial and popped the fuses. Last time I got my seats that wet I dried them out...but I also lubed up the seat rails with a white lithum to help them slide better and prevent rust.
have you run your lights yet? if not pull the conections and dry them off.. i have know buddys who got light conections wet and blew the lights....this includes turn sigs as well.
while you are messing with the diffs and transfercase and transmittion you might as well go to a hardware store and extent your breather tubes as well
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Last edited by Allen52105; 11-15-2009 at 07:44 PM..
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:32 PM   #3
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I would put some water remover in the gas tank and some Mystery Marvel in the crankcase. Depending on how much water got in the crankcase I'd might change the oil twice. I sunk mine once, pulled it to dry land, pumped the water out of the cylinders. I broke two plugs and drove out of the woods with 4 cylinders. Once I got out of the woods my buddy pulled me home. Luckily the motor shut off before it tried to compress water.

Chrysler recommends 10W-30 for the AX-15 now. That's what I run and it shifts like butter.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:34 PM   #4
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Your doing fine on everything it seems like to me man. I'm using the 90 weight gear old and havn't had any issues with mine...

You've got a pretty good handle on everything to say the least, a lot more than most people do after a weekend of abuse lol.

Your plugs and cap and rotor arn't going to get messed up by the water as long as they dried out with no rust which could bother the connections... Wipe all the contact points in the rotor, along with the contact point of the rotor, and the tip of each plug and your good to go.

NOTE: I recomend having a really good look at the OIL when you drain it, IF YOU find water in there, I recomend another oil change a couple days after this oil change.... You want to make sure you get all of the water out of the internals and thats the best way to do it if water is spotted.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:38 PM   #5
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Check your power steering reservoir if you have PS. I know my cap never sealed all the way.

I would do teh diff fluid for sure, you never know if water might have found a way in there.

Everything else sounds alright. Make sure you tell us what your oil looks like. If it's milky at all I'd go ahead and change it again soon after the first change. I'd go ahead and just put 10W-30 oil in the AX15 too. (This is where walmart's cheap 10W30 comes in handy )

Just keep an eye on the fluids and tell us what they look like when you drain them. If it ran okay on the way home you're already in better shape than most people that happens to.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:40 PM   #6
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NOTE: I recomend having a really good look at the OIL when you drain it, IF YOU find water in there, I recomend another oil change a couple days after this oil change.... You want to make sure you get all of the water out of the internals and thats the best way to do it if water is spotted.
Dang, Apollo beat me to it by a few minutes
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:47 PM   #7
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Thanks all... Maybe I'll toss 10w30 in the tranny instead of the gear oil then. I was just going off other posts and what the FAQ had suggested.

We thought we locked it up... It sounded pretty bad on the first crank out of the water, but after pulling the plugs and shooting water out, it ran fine. As I said, it ran without a check engine light or anything out of the trails... And it made it 20~ miles back to my place from Rausch.

The headlights worked fine, althought they did have some water in them, along with the Hellas and turn signals. I'll be sure to pull them all and spray them down. We used some WD-40 type spray on the plugs before we put them back in to get all the water off of them.

And I'll post back with details on the fluids. Thanks for the quick and helpful replies!

While I've got the diff covers off... Anything I should do while I'm in there? If water DID get in, do I need to spray it off or hose it out to clear it all? Or just pull off the covers, let them drain, re-gasket them, put back on covers and then fill?
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Unread 11-15-2009, 08:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Thanks all... Maybe I'll toss 10w30 in the tranny instead of the gear oil then. I was just going off other posts and what the FAQ had suggested.

We thought we locked it up... It sounded pretty bad on the first crank out of the water, but after pulling the plugs and shooting water out, it ran fine. As I said, it ran without a check engine light or anything out of the trails... And it made it 20~ miles back to my place from Rausch.

The headlights worked fine, althought they did have some water in them, along with the Hellas and turn signals. I'll be sure to pull them all and spray them down. We used some WD-40 type spray on the plugs before we put them back in to get all the water off of them.

And I'll post back with details on the fluids. Thanks for the quick and helpful replies!

While I've got the diff covers off... Anything I should do while I'm in there? If water DID get in, do I need to spray it off or hose it out to clear it all? Or just pull off the covers, let them drain, re-gasket them, put back on covers and then fill?
If you have a milkshake in the diffs I'd get some degreaser and clean it out really good. Then put the covers back on and fill it up.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 09:12 PM   #9
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Yeah, what Louie said, if you see coffee colored fluid from the diff's, you need to drain it and I would suggest using half a can of degreaser then break cleaner because unlike degreaser, it leave no oil or foam or residue what-so-ever, maybe 2 or 3 cans, because it displaces water and dries perfectly clean... After its completely clean, you may as well inspect your ring gear for chips, groovs, or pits... Also inspect for metal in the bottom of the pumpkin, and inspect the spider gears as well...

If you've got it open, you may as well inspect...
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Unread 11-16-2009, 03:31 PM   #10
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Wow... What a day.

Started this afternoon on my venture. This has been the first time digging into the diffs since I've had the Jeep. Changed the oil, it all looked alright. It wasn't a milkshake color like I thought I'd see. I think that the water stayed pretty well out of there.

Both diffs were light brown colored, super milkshake like. They REALLY needed the attention. Sprayed them out, cleaned it up... Sealed it with some high temp gasket maker and put the diff covers back on. Let them sit for about an hour to set up before I added any fluids. I don't know how you guys added fluid, but I had one HELL of a time getting fluid in there. I used a big hopper thing with a tube that filled (grabbed from Walmart). I probably should've looked for something else I guess.

Drained the transmission and had the same milky fluid coming out of there. Dark set in, so I had to quit for the day... I'll have to continue tomorrow to finish up. I need to add fluid for the tranny (grabbed 10w30 today) and then the transfer case. In both instances, it seems like the fill plugs are at super awkward locations. How should I go about filling them up without giving myself a freaking headache over it all?

Thanks in advance. Hopefully I can finish it all up tomorrow and then see how it runs.
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Unread 11-16-2009, 03:38 PM   #11
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Here's how I refill my AX-15 trannies.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...change-865520/

And for the T-case I use the top from a gear lube bottle on the ATF bottle. Look at the pointed spout on the lube bottle in this thread, it's the same threads as the ones on the ATF bootles.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...enance-728231/

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Unread 11-16-2009, 03:45 PM   #12
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You can actually fill your transmission if you remove the shifter hole cover. I believe there is breather vent on the very top.

I used some vinyl tubing stuck on the ends of the gear oil bottles that I squeezed in. If you do this, I suggest using a hose clamp to faster the hose to the bottle and some sort of spring clamp to keep it in the fill hole, or get a couple jugs of cat litter.

It's an oily job.
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Unread 11-16-2009, 03:47 PM   #13
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You can actually fill your transmission if you remove the shifter hole cover. I believe there is breather vent on the very top.

I used some vinyl tubing stuck on the ends of the gear oil bottles that I squeezed in. If you do this, I suggest using a hose clamp to faster the hose to the bottle and some sort of spring clamp to keep it in the fill hole, or get a couple jugs of cat litter.

It's an oily job.
There's no breather on the AX-15, but removing the shifter & refilling the tranny through the top until it comes out of the fill plug is an easy way to refill it without getting messy or spilling a lot of oil.

It's all in the link to my AX-15 write-up that I posted, with pics!

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Unread 11-16-2009, 05:22 PM   #14
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Thanks Max. I've seen both of those threads before.... I tried pulling the shifter assembly out, but got confused and then the dark set in. My shifter had some weird covers over them that are under the shifter boots. What is this and can I yank it? Or is it needed? It was glued with some black crap to the body.

Hopefully I'll get to finish it off tomorrow. And hopefully it'll all run fine then once it's back together.
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Unread 11-16-2009, 05:25 PM   #15
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Thanks Max. I've seen both of those threads before.... I tried pulling the shifter assembly out, but got confused and then the dark set in. My shifter had some weird covers over them that are under the shifter boots. What is this and can I yank it? Or is it needed? It was glued with some black crap to the body.

Hopefully I'll get to finish it off tomorrow. And hopefully it'll all run fine then once it's back together.
There is usually a 2nd "boot" under the first. I threw that one away on our YJs. There is also a small round seal type dust boot on the shifter itself, you DEFINITELY need that one!

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