Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Floated a valve... so time for a 6.0!

7K views 121 replies 11 participants last post by  calpbs 
#1 ·


So I tore the thing apart because a compression test revealed no compression in Cylinder #3. I must have floated a valve that made contact with the piston. The #3 exhaust valve is bent.





I could likely fix this with a $10 valve and some new valve springs, then again I have hated this thing so much lately that I hope to fix it for the long haul....

I'm hoping I don't get burned, the yard says 77k miles, and was running good, they had already started removing it when I got there. They bought the lot of 3 trucks at auction just for this motor - through a pricing error I got it cheaper then they wanted to let it go. They are pulling it for me next week. The trucks came from a steel factory, this likely was a yard truck with the low miles. I'm guessing lots of idling. The others had 200k, but the engines were cleaner LOL

2001 LQ4 with the 317 Aluminum heads











Well gotta figure some items out... My engine was originally sat high in the engine bay, and this one still sits high. I think I can make the truck intake work. The evap valve thing may have to be deleted...





Mocked in





Back on the stand for a cleaning and gasket refresh, This truck was a steel mill truck, it's filthy.



Looks pretty dirty for 77k




1/2" deep under the intake





I couldn't believe that local shops wanted $100+ more for a gasket kit then Summit. I'm at a standstill now until I get more time. Going to do gaskets and plugs, clean out the intake where oil got in when the engine laid on it's side, and attempt to get the valve covers clean. The oil is basically varnished on.

I was buying a 'low mileage' engine to avoid all this dirt and grime.

Gaskets, manifold bolts, oil cooler block off, paint, and TV setup arrived. Plugs, fuel line, AN fittings and starter too.







Hopefully I can go to town on it this weekend, the computer has been shipped for its reflash as well.
 
See less See more
20
#3 ·
No, but they make adapter plates. I bought the Summit adjustable ones because most of the adapter plates move the engine forward. I did not want that. That is also adding a little height to my engine. I was trying to avoid cutting my old mounts out. I have had it in, and it fit without the engine cover. If I really needed to I could go to the car intake as well for more clearance.
 
#4 ·
I pulled my evap purge solenoid too. Are you going to try to fit the engine cover in there?

Edit: Oops I didn't see your last post. Mine didn't fit until I did a 1/2" body lift and it still rubs the hood a little.
 
#5 ·
I pulled my evap purge solenoid too. Are you going to try to fit the engine cover in there?
I'm going to try when it is all permanently mounted. If not, it is not a big deal for me.
 
#7 ·
It was a carb'ed 350 SBC
 
#8 ·
Sounds like a kick *** project, did you consider a cam change? Did you send the harness with the computer to be cut down and set with the new componentry.
 
#9 ·
I did consider one, but my 700r4 was only built to handle about 500-600hp and I have a 231HD t-case. I also broke a fair amount of stuff with my low output 350. With double the horsepower and torque available I decided to see what it did stock first. A simple cam, and some other tweaks easily nets 450hp or so. I really do not need that, if I do a cam change on an LS motor is simple enough.

My buddy is good with electrical and has already thinned and isolated my jeeps factory harness, he is doing my harness for me.

I sent the computer to a local guy that is doing the programming for me.

Currently my intake is soaking in a degreaser bath... the yard layed the engine over after yanking it and the intake was chock full of oil. :rolleyes::(:( I've spend a couple hours cleaning it already.

I may try to get it into the parts washer if this doesn't work, but I know it isn't deep enough to soak in that.

 
#10 ·
Started buttoning it up and changing gaskets.

The Valley cover was shot, ordered a new one.

The knock sensors were shot, ordered 2 new ones and a harness

The Oxygen sensors the yard cut off and did not give to me... ordered two new ones and two harnesses

Ugh....











Adam working on my harness...

 
#12 ·
I really did not want to have to throw parts at it like this, but I guess better now and not have to worry about it.

New valley cover





New EGR plates, knock sensors, new knock sensor harness, new O2 sensors and new O2 sensor pigtails.



Should have it ready to put back in next weekend.
 
#14 ·
For ****s and giggles. I added up the total so far. I'm already over-budget, because I bought things and had to do things I was hoping not to do with a low mileage engine.

Engine 1300
tap/bit 17.46
AN Fittings 156
Starter 120
Mount adapers 160
TV cable setup 240
Knock sensors (2) 100
Knock sensor harness 24
O2 sensors (2) 106
O2 sensor pigtails (2) 52
Spark Plugs 84
serp belt 40
oil 45
oil filter 15
degreaser 22
Valley cover 35
gasket set 160
computer flash 150
hoses TBD
antifreeze TBD
misc TBD
Exhaust TBD

Total 2826.46 and accumulating.
 
#16 ·
Yep, and $720 is unexpected purchases based on having an "engine that was ready to drop in"

Everyone always says how cheap swapping is, and it can be, but I wanted to post that to show how quickly it can add up. I went through this on my last V8 swap.
 
#18 ·
I got it put back in last night, but will have to unbolt it and slide it forward, the flexplate holes did not get opened up enough.



 
#21 ·
http://tvmadeez.com/

They don't seem to have part numbers, but do not order the LS kit, that is for the car intake. For the truck intake you need the Vortec kit, that I do not see listed, mine is the Vortec kit. It has a different bracket and a shorter cable I guess.

It's an expensive kit, but it's far better than smoking a transmission, which with an incorrectly set cable will happen rapidly. So many people spend a lot of time trying to rig it, then complain when they fry the transmission, it was worth it to me. They are the only ones that have engineered a bracket that I can find. Not many people are keeping their 700r4 when going LS. Had this transmission not just been rebuilt I'd have ditched it.
 
#23 ·
I bought a braided throttle cable from them too, if nothing else they both match lol
 
#25 ·
New dipstick and tube (The yard kinked the original), coils mounted, wires on, engine tight, torque convertor tightened, oil added, throttle cable mounted and adjusted... Getting there slowly

Computer should be here any day. I may have to re-do a chunk of the fuel system because right now it is way to close to the drivers side manifold.









TV Made EZ kit... I think the screws are a little too short though, I am barely getting engagement to clamp it on.

 
#27 ·
Computer mount came and EGR plug



I thought this looked less hack than a freeze plug.

 
#29 ·
Grill on to check clearances, and the stock air tube clears. :woot:

Computer should be here anytime, so should be buttoning up the fuel system this week to be ready. Hopefully we can get to the rest of the wiring too.

Need to mount the radiator and figure out coolant hoses now.



 
#31 ·
Yes, it's a brand new Summit Racing aluminum radiator
 
#32 ·
I'll be interested what type of economy this setup will yield. I know that is most likely not a concern but with now my second I6 yj I have never gotten more than 14 MPG. I have read where some FI V8 conversions got economy much closer to 20MPG. Great power and improved fuel economy seems very enticing.
 
#33 ·
With a 5.3 I have heard great numbers for mileage highway. The 6.0L, though only .7L more seems to be iffy, and I have not heard 20mpg. Usually 16-18 at most.

It's amazing because I have cracked 28mpg in my 2014 5.3L crew cab Chevy truck, and it usually gets 20-23 highway - and it has the 3.42 towing gear. But the 6.0l from everyone I talk to is lucky to crack 16mpg in the truck. I am thinking that is related to the 4.11 rear gear they all have, maybe.

My 4 cyl could get 20 highway if the stars and planets aligned it seemed, but was usually around 15-17.

My 355 would usually get around the same 15-18 highway and usually lower city because I was always playing in the gas.
 
#34 ·
Trying to figure out the hoses, and how to route them so I can keep the mechanical fan.



 
#35 ·
Where are the ports at on the radiator? I used a radiator build specifically for LS engines so I was able to cut the Silverado hoses to fit.

I get around 20MPG with my 5.3 on 35s with 4.10s
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top