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Unread 01-22-2014, 06:20 AM   #1
willawolfe
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"flat" towing question.

Not exactly flat but.
I recently towed my yj about 200 miles on a dolly.
How come. When the jeep was on the dolly, front wheels up, transfer case and transmission in neutral, e brake off, the rear tires were locked as I tried to move to a dry location to pull the driveshaft?
I had the jeep in 4h to drive onto the dolly. Then put case and trans in N
I was dragging the rears on snow.
Doesn't seem to make sense. After the tow reconnected the shaft drove it off, drives fine, no brakes hanging up or anything like that.

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Unread 01-22-2014, 06:45 AM   #2
1320yj
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Jeep recomends towing the jeep with the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear.
I dont think I would want to tow a Jeep that far on a tow dolley, instead I would rent a trailer from U-Haul or Ryder.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 07:12 AM   #3
Jeepsr4me
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Well part of what ^^ said is true. In gear and transfer case in neutral. You may have been in-between gears and thats what locked the wheels. Or ice locked the brakes. But next time stick Tcase in neutral and transmission in gear. Can flat tow as far as you want.
I do it all time and for 100's of miles.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 07:38 AM   #4
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Unread 01-22-2014, 07:43 AM   #5
jbolty
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When the transfer case is in neutral the power is disconnected but the front and rear are connected. Here's one thread and there are many others if you search for "true neutral".

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...utral-1399263/


This is an issue if you have a lunchbox locker in front and are towing with four wheels down, or have two wheels on a dolly. It won't work
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Unread 01-22-2014, 08:16 AM   #6
StanF
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Do some searching on flat towing in the forum - there are a bunch of threads.

Here are some comments - the search will give you more comments:

1) Allegedly, the YJ NP231J transfer case doesn't have a "true" neutral. Supposedly, the TJ NP231J does. I just recently read this, but didn't really investigate thoroughly. The Teraflex 2Low Kit will give you a true neutral, I think.

2) If you have a front lunchbox locker (not selectable), then the lack of neutral may cause issues, as both axles and your Tcase are all locked together. This may have been your issue?

3) As mentioned, make sure the transmission is in gear. You want to make sure that the engine/transmission do not turn, as they could be damaged because of lack of lubrication. Even with the Tcase in neutral, the viscous action of the fluid could still cause the transmission to turn, which is why you want it in gear. I think the Jeep Owner's manual recommends 5th gear.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 09:30 AM   #7
Mobile_Homie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willawolfe View Post
Not exactly flat but.
I recently towed my yj about 200 miles on a dolly.
How come. When the jeep was on the dolly, front wheels up, transfer case and transmission in neutral, e brake off, the rear tires were locked as I tried to move to a dry location to pull the driveshaft?
I had the jeep in 4h to drive onto the dolly. Then put case and trans in N
I was dragging the rears on snow.
Doesn't seem to make sense. After the tow reconnected the shaft drove it off, drives fine, no brakes hanging up or anything like that.

You don't want to use a dolly unless you enjoy pulling the driveshaft. There is no true neutral in the stock t-case, the only time the front and rear shafts are not connected in the t-case is in 2-H. I flat tow a few hundred miles a year and will look into the true neutral plate that Jbolty is talking about.
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Unread 01-22-2014, 07:04 PM   #8
willawolfe
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Ok thanks for the responses, but I had done my research and determined that I had to pull the driveshaft because I was towing on a dolly, which wasn't an option, simply something I had to do. Pulling the shaft was also something I didn't want to do, especially on the wet cold ground. I simply can figure out why the rear tires were dragging when I tried to move it to a dry spot for more comfort removing the shaft. Can someone try and explain to me how there is a connection between the front and rear while in N of both the trans and transfer case. I just don't get it?
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Unread 01-22-2014, 10:15 PM   #9
dancytron
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Because that is what not having true neutral means. The two shafts are joined together but not hooked to the engine. So as long as the front wheels and back wheels turn the same amount, you are good. But if one set of wheels are locked to a dolly and the other set turning, then it is a problem.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 04:54 AM   #10
willawolfe
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Ok that dumbed it down a bit for me. I don't intend to flat tow or dolly my jeep much, but I was surprised when i felt the resistance and started dragging the tires.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 05:04 AM   #11
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Not to hijack the OPs thread but the PO of my willys but lockers on the both front and back. Does the same apply? Or can I just put the tranny in N and unlock the front and rear?
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Unread 01-23-2014, 06:22 AM   #12
youngjeeper11
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I just avoid all the confusion and pop off one end of each driveshaft (at the axle) and tie them up under the jeep. (I flat tow with a tow bar). Its 15 min of extra insurance to me and you cant really go wrong, unless you don't tie the shafts up well enough..... .
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Unread 01-23-2014, 06:51 AM   #13
Kuntryboy816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngjeeper11 View Post
I just avoid all the confusion and pop off one end of each driveshaft (at the axle) and tie them up under the jeep. (I flat tow with a tow bar). Its 15 min of extra insurance to me and you cant really go wrong, unless you don't tie the shafts up well enough..... .
Why not just remove the driveshafts completely?? Takes an extra 2 minutes and guarantees they don't fall and get damaged.
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Unread 01-23-2014, 06:59 AM   #14
1320yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntryboy816 View Post
Why not just remove the driveshafts completely?? Takes an extra 2 minutes and guarantees they don't fall and get damaged.
Because if you remove the rear drive shaft (providing you dont have a SYE) the fluid will leak out of the transfer case
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Unread 01-23-2014, 07:45 AM   #15
Kuntryboy816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320yj

Because if you remove the rear drive shaft (providing you dont have a SYE) the fluid will leak out of the transfer case
Small plastic soda bottle (16-20oz)... Cut it in half and duct tape the top half around the output. Fits like it was made for it. To reclaim fluid just unscrew cap and drain into an empty bottle then pump/pour it back into the transfer case. This is a handy trail repair if you lose the rear driveshaft and have to drive out in the front.
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