Flat tow in 5th or N? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
TheNewbie
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Flat tow in 5th or N?

I'm building my tow bar tomorrow and going to Ouray on Friday. I've read a lot of onfo on flat towing YJ's, but there seems to be some conflicting info when it comes to the tranny.

Should I be in 5th or neutral? and why?


1995 YJ 2.5 - 4” RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #2 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:31 PM
Xpress
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Why would you be in gear when flat towing? Common sense would tell you to put the vehicle in neutral, and not engage ANY parts of your drivetrain...

All about that unibody life.
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post #3 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
TheNewbie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Why would you be in gear when flat towing? Common sense would tell you to put the vehicle in neutral, and not engage ANY parts of your drivetrain...
And that would be my first assumption as well. And I've read posts by a lto of people who tow in N and have no problems. But 1/2 of the people out there put it in 5th. I seem to remember reading about some reasoning for having it in 5th over N. Like maybe something about keeping the fluid moving in the t-case to keep from burnign it up or somethign like that. But I can't remember now.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4” RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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post #4 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:49 PM
dancytron
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It has to do with something not getting lubricated that moves when the both transfer case and transmission are in neutral. You also need to make sure the CAD doesn't lock the front axle.

The owner's manual says:

1. Put in 2wd high
2. Drive 10 ft to make sure front axle not locked and 4wd light is off
3. Shift transmission into neutral
4. Turn engine off with key in unlocked position
5. Shift transfer case into neutral
6. shift transmission into gear
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post #5 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:54 PM
LilyBayXJ
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You want the transmission in 5th gear. It neutral, even though the vehicle is not it gear, the transmission still slowly turns due to the motion of the vehicle. This causes added wear on the transmission components. So put it in 5th.

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post #6 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilyBayXJ View Post
You want the transmission in 5th gear. It neutral, even though the vehicle is not it gear, the transmission still slowly turns due to the motion of the vehicle. This causes added wear on the transmission components. So put it in 5th.
OK, so 5th is actually to STOP the movment in the tranny?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dancytron View Post
It has to do with something not getting lubricated that moves when the both transfer case and transmission are in neutral. You also need to make sure the CAD doesn't lock the front axle.

The owner's manual says:

1. Put in 2wd high
2. Drive 10 ft to make sure front axle not locked and 4wd light is off
3. Shift transmission into neutral
4. Turn engine off with key in unlocked position
5. Shift transfer case into neutral
6. shift transmission into gear
Easy enough. Thanks

I guess 5th gear it is...

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4” RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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post #7 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 12:55 PM
Andywear
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What?!?!?
Wait, I get it.
But someone please explain to the others who dont understand.

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #8 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 01:04 PM
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Don't forget to check the E-brake and make sure it isn't engaged. It's one that is commonly missed and can be bad for rear brakes and axle seals.

When I bought my CJ5 and flat towed it home, I unlocked the front wheels and pulled the rear drive shaft. But that is mainly because the PO said that the TC had a broken tooth. That ended up not being the case, but I didn't know that at the time.
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post #9 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 01:09 PM
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If you have an aussie locker, or similar in the front you *may* need to pull a drive shaft.

Check here, the answer to the problem is starts in post #12.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/y...roblem-595457/


Until I got this fixed I pulled both drive shafts off at the pumpkin and strapped them up.

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post #10 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, just an open diff up front.

1995 YJ 2.5 - 4” RC lift - 1" MML - 33's - flat fenders front - TJ flares rear -Raptor lined exterior - Herc'd interior - DIY front bumper & winch plate - 136 amp alternator mod - 4.0 TB swap

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I've got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive...
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post #11 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 04:55 PM
Xpress
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dancytron View Post
The owner's manual says:

1. Put in 2wd high
2. Drive 10 ft to make sure front axle not locked and 4wd light is off
3. Shift transmission into neutral
4. Turn engine off with key in unlocked position
5. Shift transfer case into neutral
6. shift transmission into gear

This makes more sense to me. Keeping the tranny and t-case fluids moving makes perfect sense when moving on the highway at speed.

All about that unibody life.
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post #12 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilyBayXJ View Post
You want the transmission in 5th gear. It neutral, even though the vehicle is not it gear, the transmission still slowly turns due to the motion of the vehicle. This causes added wear on the transmission components. So put it in 5th.
If you tow a manual transmission equipped Jeep with the rear drive shaft connected and the wheels on the ground you are going to spin the main shaft of the transmission no matter what. If you put it in 5th, not only will the transmission still turn but the engine will also be turning. I'm not sure about your logic there. You can't prevent at least part of the transmission from spinning unless you remove the rear drive shaft or stick the thing on a flatbed.

If someone does tow in this manner and backs up (reverses) the tow vehicle, you will be spinning the Jeep's engine backwards. Not a huge issue for some engines but very bad juju for others.
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post #13 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronJ View Post
If you tow a manual transmission equipped Jeep with the rear drive shaft connected and the wheels on the ground you are going to spin the main shaft of the transmission no matter what. If you put it in 5th, not only will the transmission still turn but the engine will also be turning. I'm not sure about your logic there. You can't prevent at least part of the transmission from spinning unless you remove the rear drive shaft or stick the thing on a flatbed.

If someone does tow in this manner and backs up (reverses) the tow vehicle, you will be spinning the Jeep's engine backwards. Not a huge issue for some engines but very bad juju for others.
No the engine doesn't spin because the transfer case is in neutral. That's why you can flat tow without unhooking the driveshaft, where a regular vehicle without a transfer case you have to unhook the driveshaft to flat tow it.
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post #14 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dancytron View Post
No the engine doesn't spin because the transfer case is in neutral. That's why you can flat tow without unhooking the driveshaft, where a regular vehicle without a transfer case you have to unhook the driveshaft to flat tow it.
Meh, you have a point, I was assuming the transfer case was still in gear since there was concern about the transmission turning.

In that case I think I can see where the "put in in 5th gear" comes from.
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post #15 of 33 Old 08-09-2011, 06:38 PM
timatoe
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The important thing to know here is the tranny goes into 5th and the t/c in Neutral, leave the e-brake off, and the key on so the steering will turn.

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