Flare wrench size for brake bleeding nipple?

**SeattleTJ** · 05-01-2006, 11:44 PM

Jeep seems a little schizophrenic when it comes to metric vs. standard selection of fasteners. I need to know what size the bleeder valves are on the drums and disc callipers so I can go buy the proper flare wrench.

I bought a 3/8" one for some fittings on the frame but that is too big for the bleeders. I think it is 5/16" but could use confirmation.

ImRaptor · 05-02-2006, 01:55 AM

Mine were metric. 10mm I think it was.
I agree, some things seem to be metric, while others are SAE. Gets to be kind of annoying having to switch back and forth between the two. But I'm not willing to risk rounding anything just because I was to lazy to get the proper sized wrench.

**RockWoRM** · 05-02-2006, 07:08 AM

or buy a set of each just so ya have 'em. Not that much at a pep boys or auto zone.

WoRM

**TellyDSP** · 05-02-2006, 07:30 AM

I dont know if flare nuts come that small in sets. My Craftsman set had the 3/8 as the smallest. Works for the brakeline fitting, but obviously not the bleeder.

Why dont you just use a regular box end(enclosed) wrench. The only reason for the flare nut would be when a line is in the way. In this case, you can put the box end on the bleeder, then the bleader hose, and viola...no need to buy a new wrench and it's gotta be more secure than the flare nut which still has a gap to allow flex.

**RockWoRM** · 05-02-2006, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TellyDSP

Why dont you just use a regular box end(enclosed) wrench.
.
and it's gotta be more secure than the flare nut which still has a gap to allow flex.

thats great if ya have a regular bleeder thats not frozen, but most box ends are 12 point and will round off the bleeder head if its tight or stuck. In that case the flare is better.
Just throwing that out there FYI.

Johnny World · 05-02-2006, 07:40 AM

Just wondering, why do you need a flare nut wrench for the bleeder valve? Can't you use a regular wrench since there is no brakeline to get around? Thanks.

NM, answered above.

bwiencek · 05-02-2006, 08:47 AM

What I do is take a 6-point socket, break the bleeder free, clean it up, lube it a little (grease or anti-sieze) then re-install lightly tightening. Do that to all 4 wheels (mine were SAE back, Metric front). Once they're all free and then you can bleed with a regular 12-point wrench. Of course this all goes out the window when you find out the P.O. used a set of vice grips on the front caliper bleeders

Had to make a trip to the auto parts store and $2 later it's fixed right

Johnny World · 05-02-2006, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwiencek

What I do is take a 6-point socket, break the bleeder free, clean it up, lube it a little (grease or anti-sieze) then re-install lightly tightening. Do that to all 4 wheels (mine were SAE back, Metric front). Once they're all free and then you can bleed with a regular 12-point wrench. Of course this all goes out the window when you find out the P.O. used a set of vice grips on the front caliper bleeders

Had to make a trip to the auto parts store and $2 later it's fixed right

yea, mine wouldn't budge, ended up stripping 3 bleeder valves, 1 just snapped off.
So I made the trip to the auto store and picked up 3 bleeder valves and a wheel cylinder.

Are there different types of anti-seize? or just one? from reading the various threads on this forum, seems like anti-seize comes in handy for a bunch of different applications.

**TellyDSP** · 05-02-2006, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny World

So I made the trip to the auto store and picked up 3 bleeder valves and a wheel cylinder.

How'd the wheel cylinder replacement go?

Johnny World · 05-02-2006, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TellyDSP

How'd the wheel cylinder replacement go?

Haven't had a chance to install yet, will probably get to it this week. Kinda stinks that I have to driain the brake fluid again.

**SeattleTJ** · 05-02-2006, 11:43 AM

I think I will try to see if I can use a socket without the brake bleeder line on there to loosen it up and then use the regular wrench once it is loosened.

I tried using a regular wrench to loosen it up but the brass started to chowder. Last flare wrench I bought was like $12 so I guess I will try it with my existing tools first. Thanks for all the hints!!!

**TellyDSP** · 05-02-2006, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny World

Haven't had a chance to install yet, will probably get to it this week. Kinda stinks that I have to driain the brake fluid again.

Shouldnt have to drain the MC, just use some quick hands. I disconnected the wheel cylinder part first. The fact that the line was seized to the fitting, by unscrewing the fitting, it actually twisted the line off which effectively sealed it. Then I connected the new line to the wheel cylinder. Next comes the fun part. Have the new line right next to the junction block and quickly uncrew the old and screw in the new. It leaks like a SOB, but make sure the MC is full before you start. Then bleed and go.

Johnny World · 05-02-2006, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seattleyj

I think I will try to see if I can use a socket without the brake bleeder line on there to loosen it up and then use the regular wrench once it is loosened.

I tried using a regular wrench to loosen it up but the brass started to chowder. Last flare wrench I bought was like $12 so I guess I will try it with my existing tools first. Thanks for all the hints!!!

seattleyj, same thing happened to me, the nut started rounding from the vice grips. But, I found that with all the rounding, it finally gave way and loosened.

Following Telly's recommendation, I was able to pick up bleeder valves at my local Autozone for about $2-3.00 a pop.

**SeattleTJ** · 05-02-2006, 11:08 PM

FYI the socket "trick" worked. All are bled now and I am braking like a champ again. Lots of nasty old brake fluid came out, it has been awhile since I bled all four wheels on a car.