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Unread 04-16-2010, 06:51 PM   #16
machinehead131
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Capital Region, NY
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doing your own work will save you a ton..

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Looking for TJ Rear Flares, if anyone has any please PM ME.

Thank you.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 07:17 PM   #17
outlawjeeper
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
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performance is all in the axles and suspension. Don't waste money on the stock motor or rear axle. Replace the dana 35 as soon as you can.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 07:40 PM   #18
Rhino70
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Byron, Ga.
Posts: 117
DUDE, you have spent WAY too much money. Do some searches on here buy a 150+ tool kit and do it yourself. Basic maintenance on jeeps is very simple, don't be scared to try it! You will find out how mechanical you can be.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 08:44 PM   #19
DaveinHouston
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcincorporated View Post
Gents....

Here's what I've done so far.

Rear Diff rebuilt, engine mounting bracket replaced--$1600

Entire Brake system replaced, radiator hose replaced--$1500

Springs reshaped/lifted (SkyJacker)--$360 (this fixed the lean mostly)

They said there is a slight bend in the frame (less than 1/2") so I'll get that pulled out later.

Today I'm getting the axle shimmed?? and retubed?? --$200 Told this will fix the shake caused by the angle on the axle from the lift....


Open to comments or suggestions on what to look at next....Thanks....Rob
You need to SLOW way down and ask some questions on this forum before blowing money like you already have. You're spending money you shouldn't be spending and it sounds like your mechanic is taking you to the cleaners. If you've got unlimited funds just go buy a new Rubicon.
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- 2003 Rubicon - 4" Lift, 35" KM2s, 5.13 gears, winch
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Unread 04-16-2010, 08:53 PM   #20
burnout189
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Waynesboro PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aontkos View Post
If you want to wheel with it, make sure you get a Posi-Lok for the front end.
you dont need to do that. im on the dana 30 on 35's with the disco still there and still working. ive never had a (major) problem with it. its simpleto keep working. i grenaded the 35 though (rear)..... twice. but the 30 is still going strong ( i did replace the bearings and u's but thats maintenance)
people complain about the vacuum disco, but they are simple and generally work fine. until you go to 33s ^ and a locker you will be fine. (by then you will prob want more than a posi lock, anyhow)


my advice, go out, have fun, and you will figure out what you need to do to your jeep for your situation.

hit up sears, grab a nice little tool kit for $200 or so, and start wrenching around. start with little stuff like a tune up and fluid changes, and your confidence will rise. next thing you know you might be building axles a motor and a cage. never know.

JF is here to help you work on things.
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Last edited by burnout189; 04-16-2010 at 08:56 PM.. Reason: i just cant get this right......
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Unread 04-17-2010, 04:49 AM   #21
Dewster196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnout189 View Post
JF is here to help you work on things.

Love this site for tips, info and opinions, most times you get straight shooters who are gonna tell you the real deal.

And if you are skeptical there are alot of other site that you can use to confirm info.

JF has really helped me alot.

to JeepForum.com
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Unread 04-17-2010, 07:12 AM   #22
djsmith1174
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: minnesota
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You have a nice YJ there, but you've already spent more than it would have cost to buy another one without the problems you've fixed. I'm not here to tell you how to spend your money, but you may want to think through the options prior to shelling out the cash.
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Unread 04-17-2010, 07:45 AM   #23
linusb
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Is this Jeep a daily driver? Do you require it for daily transportation? I agree with the others, unless you are just wealthy, owning a YJ is something you need to maintain yourself. Otherwise the expenses of maintenance/repair will eventually exceed the cost of a new Jeep!!!

If it's not a daily driver, start learning to wrench on it by fixing things yourself when they break. You don't have to rush and you really have nothing to lose. You can research most any repair on the internet and often find pictures and/or video on Youtube. I'm not that mechanical myself but have grown by leaps and bounds. It's like math...each little bit you learn builds on itself. Once you start to understand the logic of HOW things work, it becomes much easier to to understand what is required to troubleshoot and fix them.

Think of a vehicle in it's simplest form: everything is essentially held together with nuts and bolts! The tough part is that the nuts and bolts are often in awkward spots and is thus intimidating because you end up having to remove components that you might not think yourself prepared to remove! Just do it. But don't go removing that big skid plate under the Jeep's tranny/transfer case...it's holding up the transmission. ...you might guess how I figured that one out.

...and you need to understand electricity too. Even that isn't so hard once you begin to really delve into understanding it and doing some hands on projects. A good start would be to mount up an accessory and wire it up to a switch on your dash. Maybe some lights to mount on the bumper.

I just converted my factory AC system to an on board air setup. That was a very satisfying project and helped me learn not just about auto mechanics but a bit about plumbing as well! Not sure if your Jeep has A/C and whether or not you need it...but that would be a great project. You might even make money on the deal because the parts for conversion only cost ~$150 and you can get more than that for your A/C unit that is connected to your dash and the condenser which is mounted in front of the radiator.
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1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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Unread 04-17-2010, 09:37 AM   #24
RockWoRM
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If this Jeep is a DD and will most likely only see dirt roads and ruts, then having the D35 re-built should last you a good long while. If you're not planning on putting meats on it bigger than 31's, then you should be fine.
If you ever plan on going bigger, then you need to seriously think about better upgrades.

I'm not sure what's going on with this quote, though...
Quote:
Today I'm getting the axle shimmed?? and retubed?? --$200 Told this will fix the shake caused by the angle on the axle from the lift....
Not sure what could get 'retubed', but adding a shim to your axle perch is definately something you could do/wrench yourself with just a few shop tools.
Sounds like it's all dialed in now, though. But if you plan to do anything else to it, like everyone else has said, post up some questions here first!




WRM
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Originally Posted by 80 CHOPPER View Post
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Unread 04-17-2010, 10:02 AM   #25
DaveinHouston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcincorporated View Post
You live and learn...didn't want to shell out so much, but I wanted to get this thing dependable as it is my daily driver to work (and I still need to do safety/registration). Great thing is these guys have taken the time to show me what they're doing and all the work is guaranteed....couldn't get that doing it myself right now. Will start to try things myself now though....thanks for the tips.

By the way...WHO'S DANA? j/k
Rob I don't mean to hammer you but you really are wasting money that could be spent doing real upgrades to your Jeep. For the price your mechanic is charging you they certainly should guarantee their work, heck they should gold plate it. Spending $1600 to rebuild a D35 (Dana 35 - that's the axle you have in the rear) to stock condition is frankly crazy. You could have bought a good axle (D44, 8.8) or even done a Super 35 for that still had the dependability you want. I would really question what was wrong with it in the first place that it needed "rebuilding".
And $1500 for a brake job? I would expect them to replace all components with new for that price. In all likelihood you could probably have replaced brake shoes, pads and turned your rotors and drums for two or three hundred and done the work yourself....and had brakes just as dependable as new. And now you have drive line vibrations resulting from the lift? Doing nothing more than "shimming" the axle is probably not the answer. Do you have a transfer case drop? And that business about "retubing" the axle. I promise you that is absolute BS.
Again, if you really want some help there is a wealth of knowledge and experience on this site. I've taken advantage of it many times. But if you're going to take advantage of it you need to describe your symptoms/problems/objectives and ask for advice here BEFORE you jump out there and pay a mechanic to do something that may not need doing. Sorry to say but for what you've already spent you could have that Jeep pretty well rigged out. Good luck.
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- 2003 Rubicon - 4" Lift, 35" KM2s, 5.13 gears, winch
- 1968 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-86, Dana 18, D27 & D44

- NRA Life Member - Licensed to Carry and Do.
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Unread 04-24-2010, 09:33 AM   #26
rcincorporated
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Alright, so there's this "tube" coming off my front axle? (differential) that runs up into my engine compartment but doesn't connect to anything???????? has some sort of "out valve" on the end....can someone tell me what this is????

Had the rear axle re-shimmed (free) and it still shakes, especially in 3rd gear.....any ideas?????
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Unread 04-24-2010, 09:43 AM   #27
DaveinHouston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcincorporated View Post
Alright, so there's this "tube" coming off my front axle? (differential) that runs up into my engine compartment but doesn't connect to anything???????? has some sort of "out valve" on the end....can someone tell me what this is????

Had the rear axle re-shimmed (free) and it still shakes, especially in 3rd gear.....any ideas?????
The only tube that should be coming out your differential is a vent tube. As the diff heats up the fluid can produce pressure that needs some place to go. That's what the vent is for.

Rob it would also help everyone to help you if you would fill out your Jeep profile so we can tell what modifications you've done to your Jeep.

The vibration could be a function of the amount of lift, SYE or not, rear axle type, tire size, double cardan driveshaft or not, etc. etc. If you can provide a good pic of your rear driveshaft, axle pinion and rear of transfer case....from the side we could at least tell if your pinion angle is about right.
__________________
- 2003 Rubicon - 4" Lift, 35" KM2s, 5.13 gears, winch
- 1968 CJ5 - Dauntless V6, T-86, Dana 18, D27 & D44

- NRA Life Member - Licensed to Carry and Do.
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Unread 04-24-2010, 10:06 AM   #28
MDonovan8
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Desert Hills, AZ
Posts: 247
If you are not going to research all of the great posts and info in this forum then I suggest you get a Chiltons manual for Jeeps to read and figure out some of your issues by yourself. Otherwise keep shelling out the ridiculous money to your mechanic. You have way over paid for the services you have already recieved.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 03:18 PM   #29
rcincorporated
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Posts: 11
Soaked the whole under carriage with WD40 and it's running smoother and quieter than ever....K.I.S.S Keep It Simple Stupid
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Unread 05-17-2010, 03:34 PM   #30
Tompatt
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working hands on is the best thing u can do to learn. and learning how to fix everything yourself is way better than having a pricey mechanic do it. just read and read on this forum. i learned everything i know from here. love it.
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