So I hope to have the tub back on this week. When I work on setting up the pinion angle on the 8.8 should I do it with the hardtop on because that is generally the most weight it will see at one time, or should I leave the hardtop off while I do it since that is the way it is driven 90% of the time? Or am I wasting my time even thinking about that? Not sure if the new springs will be affected by the hardtop weight THAT much. Right now, I'm thinking I'll set it up with the top off. If the weight is enough to "lower" the TC, I think I'd rather have the angle be "in line" with the TC rather than removing the top and having the angle increase greater than the 2 deg. compensation I'll leave in.
Any advice/input from anyone with a similar set up?
Finally found some time to get back to work on the Heep. Not much time, but time all the same. With the help of a couple of great friends, we got the tub set back on and mounted. The next couple of days will be devoted to getting everything hooked back up, filled, bled, mounted, and then on to getting the 8.8 and high steer done. Here's a couple of pics of what got done this afternoon. I used the Daystar body mounts with 1" lift. Despite removing the POs 3" BL, swapping the old flat springs for the 2" BDS packs got me and inch or two more lift. In these pics, the new springs still have not been compressed or flexed yet, so I'm sure there will be a bit of a difference once they settle in a bit.
Thanks again to FirefighterJeep and Banks for the help! Hope to get much more done over the next few days and will post up plenty of pics of the progress. Thanks again for checking out this looooong project.
I asked him the same thing yesterday. He said they were for supporting the radiator. The factory supports don't reach if you have a body lift.
Can't believe you were actually listening. Thanks again for the help!
Originally Posted by soonermatt
That's correct. Don't over tighten them either or they will come off.
They sure will, I got a little eager on one of them today and had to redo it.
Originally Posted by W_A_Watson_II
Over tighten them? Mine I simply pulled the old ones off the pins, and pushed the new ones on the pins.
Were those screws/bolts rather than pins?
They are actually held on with 1/4 - 20 - 2.25" torx bolts that thread into hex nuts welded inside of the grill housing. Mine were so gone that I removed the OEM supports the same way you did, then used some "encouragement" to remove the old torx crap and replaced them with some stainless that were 2.5" long because Lowe's didn't have any 2.25 in stock. I'll post some pics below in a minute.
Originally Posted by freakmonkeydog
firefighter315, can you confrim what these are? I bought a BL with no instructions and can't figure out what they're supposed to be for...
What Firefighterjeep and Matt said ^^^......I'll have some pics of those mounted too here in a minute.
Originally Posted by kbfunTH
Build is looking really nice. I like the work you are doing with protecting the frame. Where did you buy the pro grade Rustoleu,m and the glossmblack oilnbase enamel?B
Thanks! The "professional grade" Rustoleum was the oil based enamel. It is the Rustoleum that comes in the bright silver containers and can be found at just about any paint/hardware/big box store. I use the can and roll it on in several coats using those small sponge rollers. On this frame, I used rattle cans of teh same paint to fill in the area the roller wouldn't reach. We use it on work benches at the FD and it takes a TON of punishment. As with any paint, it's all in the preparation and correct application I guess. Thanks for checking it out!
I got to spend most of today working on the Jeep and got quite a bit done. When you look at it, it is hard to tell, but I did get quite a bit accomplished. I didn't get any pics of the first project, but I had to figure out a fix for the two rear body mounts. Evidently, the new crossmember I welded in is slightly higher in the frame than the original. This translated to around 3/16" difference over the foot or two between the gas tank member and the rear crossmember. Rather than torque those mounts down and make them work, I added 4 more fender washers to the tops of those two mounts and used grade 5 bolts that were 1/2" longer. They aren't as noticeable as I thought they'd be. Anything is better than that old 3" BL. When I did the crossmember, all the measurements were identical to the original, but somehow I managed to screw it up by 3/16 I guess.
After hitting all the body bolts with some anti-seize and torqued to spec. (35 lb/ft on the 7/16" bolts and 50 lb/ft on the 1/2") I spent most of the day getting everything hooked back up and mounted where it goes on the firewall. I found it was much easier to make the rod to pedal connections on the brake and clutch if I loosely attached the booster and clutch master to the firewall, made the pedal connections and then tighten down the rest of the way. Got all the main electrical routed to the point it will meet the passenger fender and ready to route to parking/headlights. Also got the grill/radiator mounted and hooked back up.
I already talked about the grill mount and new supports above, so I'll just leave that to a couple of pics of the old mount/hardware and what I replaced it with. You can see how the mounts orient to the grill/frame a bit in the pics above.
Old OEM rubber support and the 1/4 -20 - 2.25" torx (rusted beyond recognition)
New polyurethane support and 2.50" stainless bolt I replaced it with. I also added a bit of blue threadlocker to these because I've heard several others say then have a bad habit of vibrating loose. When you torque the center bolt down on the mount, it will compress these down and hold them pretty tightly.
The last item of business was to get the extended stainless brake lines on the front. I had to cut away the previous mounts that the PO had moved and welded to the frame. A small Dremel cutting wheel and a BFH had those off in ten or fifteen seconds. Nothing special here, pretty straight forward. I used the same banjo bolts and added new copper crush washers to each caliper and then mounted the new hardware where I liked it on the frame. I'll check the placement when I can finally flex/stuff to see how they react. I was able to get it done without losing too much of the old fluid. I'll flush out the rest when I bleed the system.
Driver side mount. This was just above the old mount done by the PO. I checked for interference with the shock and it has a ton of clearance.
Driver side "droop"
Passenger side mount
That was about it for today. Tomorrow I hope to get the fenders back on and everything else under the hood routed and hooked up. Then it will be on to the 8.8 install. Thanks for taking time to have a look and as always, any comments or questions are welcome! Especially if anyone notices anything I screwed up on!
Dang! You DID get a lot done today. Wish I could have made it. I need some garage therapy after this week.
Man, there's tons left to do. Plenty of "therapy" left to be had for free. Hope y'all had a good time tonight. I'll have to finish up early tomorrow in time for the game, but will be back at it Monday too.