Ok thanks for the info. Im going to have to take a wire brush or wheel and clean things up a bit and have a closer look. Like I said its in really bad shape.
Is the cancer mainly in just that crossmember, or do you have other areas on the frame as well?
I just ordered a RRO OTT high steer kit. Hopefully I won't have to deal with the poor customer service others have experienced with them. It's a shame anyone would have to deal with that when the product gets such great reviews and comments.
I plan this weekend to get the fuel line to the rear finished up (gotta redo the double flare after shortening the line a bit) and hopefully get the tub back on. Will probably go ahead and swap out the front output u-joint while I have easy access from the top side too. Then it will be back to getting everything hooked back up and mounted where it goes while getting the 8.8 ready for the install. Still need to pick up a pair of new calipers for that too. It seems that for every task you mark off of your list, two more things get added to the end!
Oh no. I got cancer in other areas as well. I am installing two of the ART rear frame sections as well as the rear crossmember. Then I need to move forward a bit and cut open the frame to get access to where the transmission skid plate attaches and weld in some new nuts that have broken from removing the skid plate. Other than that its a solid frame elsewhere. Once I get things opend up some more im going to blow out all the crap inside the frame and put some type of corrosion inhibitor inside. I plan on posting a thread when I get a little further along. Ive had this thing parked in my garage for almost 2yrs.
I was out this morning and had a closer look. These braces or triangle shape things are welded to the crossmember on the underside. Im going to have to cut mine out working around these and hope I can salvage them. If not Im looking at having to make my own. I plan on getting to this on the weekend. Once its out I may have to install my rear frame sections since they fit up in underneith this crossmember.
Once its out I may have to install my rear frame sections since they fit up in underneith this crossmember.
I had to do a little notching in the area where the rear frame repair piece intersected the crossmember. Nothing major, just a little here or there to make it fit well. Before you open your frame to weld in nuts for the tranny skid, check this out:
Ive read that thread befor. Im sure the nutserts are ok but with my experience with that type of fastner on aircraft they are a PITA. They tend to move on you when you try to take out a screw or bolt. Mind you the ones Ive installed are aluminum. If these are steel then I guess you could add a tack weld to help hold them in also. My plan right now is to copy what ART has for that area as a repair. Once I get the back end delt with I will take a closer look and come up with an action plan. I will do my best to keep you in the loop when I get around to posting my build.
Haven't been able to get much done over the past week, but thought I'd get a couple of pics of the brake line I bent and ran back for the rear axle. Still need to do another double flare and make the connection to the extended braided line. Front extended flex lines need to go on too. After I get this last little item done, the tub should be ready to go back on. Then on to the 8.8 swap.
Added a little anti-seize to the retaining tab. Don't know if it will help in such an exposed area, but figured it can't hurt.
I found a couple of hours to work on the Heep today. Ended up finishing up the rear brake line, cleaned up the front DS and put a couple of new u-joints in, and cut some steel sleeves to use with the Daystar body mounts. Since the PO put a 3" BL on, I didn't have the stock sleeves to reuse with the new mounts. I'll add some fender washers to the tops and be good to go with these. Might be able to get the tub back on tomorrow afternoon if I'm lucky.
The high steer kit should be here Wednesday. I'm looking forward to checkin' it out. I'll probably wait until after the 8.8 is done before moving to the front and taking care of that steering. Thinking of going ahead and doing the Durango steering box swap while I have it all apart. We'll see how energetic I'm feeling I guess.
Ive got a question for you, Your first picture on the last post shows your fuel filter/lines. On the tank side of the fuel filter it has a 90* bend in the gas line. I replaced all of my fuel lines and put in a 3/8ID piece of gas line on that right angle and it pinches when theyre is no gas pressure because of the right angle bend. It doesnt appear yours is crimping, is that because you have that clamp there? The build progress looks great and very clean, makes me wish i would have just did a body off when i did mine. -Jon
NEW JK: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/its-yellow-jeep-2008-jk-1350043/
OLD YJ: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/1991-yj-project-quickie-1146445/
Yonco, thanks for taking time to check my work out! I'm not doing anything that hasn't been done before, but I hope everyone can find something of use. Those are new fuel lines on a new filter too. I swapped those out when I got the Jeep several years ago and worked with the filter position to try and minimize the possibility of that rear line crimping. The last time I started it, I noticed a pretty good leak from there, so I just went ahead and replaced them again while everything was wide open. I did add that cheap spring clamp in that bend to try and apply even pressure over the line at that point to maybe keep it from crimping. Other than that, I am wondering if the filter location can be played with to move it forward and let the angle on that line open up a bit. I'll let ya know if it works okay. That clamp was one of the spring type that came with the new filter.
I got a little more done today to get ready and put the tub back on. Thought about trying to do it today, but a two weekend training knocked out most of my help. Very tiring class. We'll get it done in the next couple of days hopefully. Anyway, I worked on a bad body mount today that I had forgotten about. Evidently, when the PO put the 3" BL on, he spun the captive nut in the front driver side mount. Instead of fixing it, he moved the mount outward and drilled a new hole. That wouldn't work with the Daystar mounts, so I fixed it. Here is the old captive nut and bolt that was cut off.
He butchered the bottom pretty good when he cut off the seized bolt. Because of this, I didn't bother trying to drill the bolt and reuse the nut.
To free the captive nut, I accessed it from the engine bay side and then used a Dremel tool to cut the cage surrounding the nut in half. I then used a flathead screwdriver to fold the two halves back and remove the old nut.
I cut a piece of flat stock a little larger than the old captive nut to fit more tightly inside of the cage. Then drilled a 5/8" hole centered. I then tack welded a 1/2" grade 5 nut centered over the hole.
After checking the fit, I had to cut down the center of the cage inside of the body to allow the nut to fit since it was taller than the original style. After doing this, I simply bent the cage halves back closed over the new plate/nut and tacked the cage back closed around the nut.
I know most people simply tack a nut inside of the tub and leave it at that. I wanted to try and repair it while maintaining the little bit of play in the nut to make it easier lining the tub back up on the frame. We'll see how well it works. You may notice a bolt sticking up through the nut. I drilled a hole through the plywood tub is sitting on and used that bolt to help position the nut within the cage as I tacked the cage back closed.
Even though the location of this captive nut is not isolated from water/mud due to the opening on the bottom just forward of the rocker panel, I didn't like the gaping hole I cut. I decided to cut a small patch and tack it in. I chose to tack it rather than fully weld it because water/dirt is gonna get in there anyway and it will be easier to get back in there should I ever need to. Used the small Dremel to clean up the metal before tacking.
Primed/Painted. Had to use some black enamel, didn't have any white. At least it is in the engine comp where nobody will see it. I may try to get some white on it before putting the fenders back on. I also took care of that very minor surface rust you can see a bit of on the edge in front of the body mount hole.
That's it for now. Nothing left to do until I can get the tub back on. Hopefully that will be in the next couple of days. Thanks again for taking time to check out my project!