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finished body lift, now its hard to steer
| 1984-2001 Jeep XJ Cherokee Lift Kits 3-4.5" with Full | Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line | Spartan Lockers FREE SHIPPING Excellent Prices |
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#1 | |
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Web Wheeler
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finished body lift, now its hard to steer
![]() ![]() ![]() I just finished a 1.25" JKS BL today. Now it is harder to turn the steering wheel. It's not like the manual steering on my old Toyota, but pretty close. The slip-joint on the steering shaft looks a little cruddy, so I sprayed some PB on it for S&G. The little u-joints in the steering shaft seem to be at conservative angles compared to other BL'ed Jeeps I've seen. The PS pump isn't squealing and I don't see any PS leaks. Anything quick and easy I can check before I start hitting things with a BFH? Thanks! ![]()
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#2 |
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Registered User
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I know that on 2" BLs you usually have to remove one of the clips in the slip joint on the steering shaft to allow the slip joint to extend further to accommodate the extra length due to the lift. It is either that and/or your slip joint could be froze up. I actually had to temporarily weld two pieces of steel on either side (one to rest on and the other to beat on) and used a sledge hammer to break it free. Then ground off the welds to remove the attached steel.
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#3 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Quote:
I drove it around the block just a few minutes ago. If I'm turning and I let go of the wheel, the wheel doesn't straighten out. The tension in the wheel is almost definitely in the steering column, not the PS pump/gear. I'll give the slip-joint a good once over. Thanks! |
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#4 |
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Join a 4x4 Club
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The slip joints only have to slip in an accident. They stay fixed in day to day use, which means they crud up rock solid over the years. Thats one of my pet 'to do soon' projects, buying a nice replacement (and a junk yard Durango gear box).
Spray it with PB Blaster, wait an hour, then tap it with a hammer. It's already under tension, so it may pop out a bit.
__________________
'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3 Vortec V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(w/WarnHubs), 4.88 gears, 35" Trxus M/T's, AX15, 15x7 wheels, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000, no top or doors Apr-Oct. Member and Web guy: New Mexico 4 Wheelers |
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#5 |
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aka Jamesx2
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Yorks Hudson Valley
Posts: 4,802
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I had the same problem. I loosened up the clamp where the steering column meets up with the shaft on the splines section. I then slid the column off the shaft just a hair with enough to free up the steering but also enough so the two parts are still safely secures
__________________
My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4-3-swap-has-finally-begun-1237704/ If your going to talk about me talk to me |
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#6 |
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Join a 4x4 Club
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That may work, obviously did for you, but those clamps for the column and for the box input have a grove in them for the clamping bolt. Those groves keeps the u-joints position on the spline shafts mostly fixed, so your technique may not work for everyone.
__________________
'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3 Vortec V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(w/WarnHubs), 4.88 gears, 35" Trxus M/T's, AX15, 15x7 wheels, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000, no top or doors Apr-Oct. Member and Web guy: New Mexico 4 Wheelers |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
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You may also want to take a look at the PS lines, esp the two steel sections going into and out of the gear. They are tight by the L frame rail under the rad support and can get pinched. A restricted line will negatively affect the assist your PS pump can give it and make it feel more like manual steering.
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#8 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Quote:
I'll take pics tomorrow and post back. Everyone likes pics. |
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#9 |
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Join a 4x4 Club
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You know what it is, know a few ways to fix it, why don't you just fix it rather than taking photos. We all know what a steering shaft looks like.
__________________
'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3 Vortec V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(w/WarnHubs), 4.88 gears, 35" Trxus M/T's, AX15, 15x7 wheels, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000, no top or doors Apr-Oct. Member and Web guy: New Mexico 4 Wheelers |
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