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Unread 02-28-2013, 01:56 PM   #16
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The hp30/8.8 combo is plenty strong for a set of 33's but the engine and transmission have much more reliable peers that would work better in any jeep. I'm excited to see what comes of this.

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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
The hp30/8.8 combo is plenty strong for a set of 33's but the engine and transmission have much more reliable peers that would work better in any jeep. I'm excited to see what comes of this.
I feel pretty good about the 8.8, I'd lean a little more towards an 8.25 though. IIRC, they accept the same axle shaft on either side, makes carrying spares a bit easier. The HP30 is a pretty solid axle...however I have a buddy in my club who's a rock-bouncing-throttle-jockey and I think he snaps a U-joint just about every time we go on a run

I'm on the hunt for a set of waggy 44's to build. I know they'll be up to the job...I tend to have a bit of a heavy foot myself.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArticRubi View Post

I feel pretty good about the 8.8, I'd lean a little more towards an 8.25 though. IIRC, they accept the same axle shaft on either side, makes carrying spares a bit easier. The HP30 is a pretty solid axle...however I have a buddy in my club who's a rock-bouncing-throttle-jockey and I think he snaps a U-joint just about every time we go on a run

I'm on the hunt for a set of waggy 44's to build. I know they'll be up to the job...I tend to have a bit of a heavy foot myself.
Why would you use an inferior axle to make carrying spare shafts easier?

The 8.8 is much stronger than the Chrysler 8.25. Granted anything can be broken but it is darn near bulletproof up to 35s if you use your head at all while wheeling.

As far as the HP30, with some upgraded shafts that have full circle clips, it holds its own with 35s as well in rigs that weigh as little as our YJs.

We can debate the difference in 44s and 30s but for my money, in a YJ, you don't gain much by swapping to a front 44. The weak point is still in the u-joint which is the same 297 joint that many run in their d30.

Start talking about higher torque/heavier rigs then we can talk about why the larger pinion and thicker tubes in the 44 are desirable, but for a YJ with stock drivetrain there's no real need.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 02:59 PM   #19
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Ujoints and the ball joints. They're the same on both axles.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:05 PM   #20
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Not wanting to start any arguments but I'd defiantly consider running the 8.25 over the 8.8.
I completely trashed my 8.8 with just 33s locked.

And do that t18 swap!!! Im doing it right now with my 4.0. Be sure to do your research. It takes some time to figure out exactly what all you'll need.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillonjm View Post
Why would you use an inferior axle to make carrying spare shafts easier?

The 8.8 is much stronger than the Chrysler 8.25. Granted anything can be broken but it is darn near bulletproof up to 35s if you use your head at all while wheeling.
8.8 is stronger, but they're not worlds apart. Certainly not like comparing a D44 to a 60 and it's a significant upgrade from a D35. Knowing that this rig will run 33's and never anything else, I'd have every confidence that it would hold up just fine.

The real determining factor to what goes in will ultimately be cost and availability. Just found an HP30/8.25 4.10 locally that's a really nice deal if it's still available. Also have an email out about a set of waggy 44's for very cheap that would be a fun build. Cost of regear and lockers is pretty much a wash whichever way I go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dillonjm View Post
As far as the HP30, with some upgraded shafts with full circle clips it holds its own with 35s as well in rigs that weigh as little as our YJs. We can debate the difference in 44s and 30s but for my money, in a YJ, you don't gain much by swapping to a front 44. The weak point is still in the u-joint which is the same 297 joint that many run in their d30.
We'll definitely have to disagree here

http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90d0418c.jpg

D30, 44, and 60 ring gears side by side. While the D44 is a good bit larger than the 30, it also opens up running 35 spline shafts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rd94yj View Post
And do that t18 swap!!! Im doing it right now with my 4.0. Be sure to do your research. It takes some time to figure out exactly what all you'll need.
Yep this is definitely going to be part of the winter build. Super deep 1st gear should remove the need for having to run a doubler. There's a T18/D300 listed locally I've been trying to get my hands on for a few weeks, the owner seems to be MIA though! :thumbsdown:
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArticRubi View Post

We'll definitely have to disagree here

http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90d0418c.jpg

D30, 44, and 60 ring gears side by side. While the D44 is a good bit larger than the 30, it also opens up running 35 spline shafts.
No hard feelings. I'm just very opinionated on the "30/44 in the front of a YJ issue"

For a YJ on 35's or smaller, I'm saying it doesn't matter. The R&P are not the weak point in either axle (44/30). The u-joints are, which are the same if you're not using the stock YJ 260 joints.

If we start talking 37's, neither axle is up to it without significant upgrades. If you're trying to upgrade a 44, which you talk about by saying it opens up 35 spline shafts, you might as well just go for a 60 since the cost/benefit isn't worth it unless you REALLY want to run 37's and don't want to drag the differential, but even then you'll still spend more on the 44 than it would have cost to put in a 60.

That's all the point I was trying to make.
------------------------

Regarding the 8.25, I'm trying to find some COT/MOT #'s for it and I'm coming up empty right now, but IIRC its lower than the 44 and the 8.8 is quite a bit more than the 44, in fact, its closer to the semi-float 60 than the 44:

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

For 33's though, you're right, it probably doesn't matter, both the 8.25 and the 8.8 can hold up to 33's very easily.. However, going with an 8.25 because "spares are easier to carry" wouldn't be the reason I went with it. On 33's with an 8.8 there is no reason to carry spare shafts.

Cost and availability might be, as you stated, a very good reason to go with one over the other, however.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rd94yj View Post
Not wanting to start any arguments but I'd defiantly consider running the 8.25 over the 8.8.
I completely trashed my 8.8 with just 33s locked.

And do that t18 swap!!! Im doing it right now with my 4.0. Be sure to do your research. It takes some time to figure out exactly what all you'll need.
The 8.25 is weaker than the 8.8, this is invalid.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:43 PM   #24
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I throw my vote in for waggy 44 in the front. On 33s and a 4 cyl I bent axle tubes on my 30. I have yet to actually break anything on my front 44 (knock on wood) with well over 3 times the engine and 37s

Probably sent from under my broken heep
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my on board alternator/welder write up
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my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
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RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
I throw my vote in for waggy 44 in the front. On 33s and a 4 cyl I bent axle tubes on my 30. I have yet to actually break anything on my front 44 (knock on wood) with well over 3 times the engine and 37s

Probably sent from under my broken heep
I thought you broke a shaft a few weeks ago? Driver side if I recall correctly.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillonjm View Post

I thought you broke a shaft a few weeks ago? Driver side if I recall correctly.
You caught me there's actually a story for that one.

I had no rear driveshaft and i had my passenger side hub unlocked and was using torque steer to turn the front wheels since I had no pitman arm.

Standing on the brakes and gas in 1 wheel drive low with a 6.0 is bad. Also doesn't help it was already turned at full lock.

I'll re make my statement, I have never broken my front 44 anywhere except in my driveway lol

Probably sent from under my broken heep
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build thread:
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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
You caught me there's actually a story for that one.

I had no rear driveshaft and i had my passenger side hub unlocked and was using torque steer to turn the front wheels since I had no pitman arm.

Standing on the brakes and gas in 1 wheel drive low with a 6.0 is bad. Also doesn't help it was already turned at full lock.

I'll re make my statement, I have never broken my front 44 anywhere except in my driveway lol

Probably sent from under my broken heep


Had me thinking I was crazy(ier than normal).
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:54 PM   #28
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillonjm View Post



Had me thinking I was crazy(ier than normal).
Nope you were right, I try not to think about the times when I do **** like that lol

Probably sent from under my broken heep
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:55 PM   #29
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Gotcha. I appreciate the tech info on the 8.8, helps put things into measurable perspective. The only real downside to the 8.8 is the offset pinion. Spare shafts aside it is known that at full droop and compression it can cause some significant binding of the driveshaft.

Ultimately it will come down to what it always comes down to, price and availability. I have a local guy now down to $400 for a matching set HP30/8.25 with 4.10's from a '95 XJ. Since this is definitely a budget minded build, unlike my JK , it's likely this set will find a home under the YJ. I can run them for now, then decide if I'm going to build them or work on another set and sell them later.
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Unread 02-28-2013, 03:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArticRubi View Post
Gotcha. I appreciate the tech info on the 8.8, helps put things into measurable perspective. The only real downside to the 8.8 is the offset pinion. Spare shafts aside it is known that at full droop and compression it can cause some significant binding of the driveshaft.

Ultimately it will come down to what it always comes down to, price and availability. I have a local guy now down to $400 for a matching set HP30/8.25 with 4.10's from a '95 XJ. Since this is definitely a budget minded build, unlike my JK , it's likely this set will find a home under the YJ.
Sounds like you've found a good budget combo to run there, a little cutting and welding and you should be good to go!

For those reading that are contemplating an 8.8 swap, a SYE/double cardan shaft with a properly set pinion angle solves that binding issue, which is only really an issue and lift sizes that require a SYE anyway.
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