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Unread 08-22-2012, 11:06 PM   #61
jojojeep1
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no wonder why , cal. here in n.y after 20 years my 88 cost $21 if your horn works , and you have good tires you pass, nothing like a saffty inp . only gotta love n.y over here you can push the jeep in with no motor in it and it still passes , as long as you have brakes, blinkers stuff like that. i feel sorry for you guys over there


Last edited by jojojeep1; 08-22-2012 at 11:15 PM.. Reason: nb lhub;kk v
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Unread 08-22-2012, 11:19 PM   #62
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plym49
Just saw your edit.

You MUST find which cap terminal is now #1. If it is the same as it was before, then you did not rotate the distributor body with respect to where it was when the advance was hitting the block. You might be one, two or three terminals away from where you were, depending on where you end up with the distributor body.
So if I find tdc on #1 and keep the rotor there, I can rotate the dizzy so that cap post for number 4 or even 2 is now number one? And all should be okay?
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Unread 08-22-2012, 11:31 PM   #63
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Also I don't have any way to put a lot of load on the motor at wot. Closest actual hill is a few miles away. Lol. Thanks. That makes sense though. So what were going for right now is the best timing we can so it'll pass emissions?
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Unread 08-23-2012, 12:06 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr

So if I find tdc on #1 and keep the rotor there, I can rotate the dizzy so that cap post for number 4 or even 2 is now number one? And all should be okay?
I did this and it worked. I have way more movement toward the block. Ended up using the number four post as the new number one. I adjusted it easily too. Somehow everything worked lol.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 12:20 AM   #65
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It sounds like I have a miss though. If you want to pm me your email address I can send you the video on my phone. And when using the light sometimes it doesn't light completely.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 06:57 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
I did this and it worked. I have way more movement toward the block. Ended up using the number four post as the new number one. I adjusted it easily too. Somehow everything worked lol.
Fantastic! You got it done before I could respond to your other question (the answer to which was YES!).
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Unread 08-23-2012, 07:06 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
It sounds like I have a miss though. If you want to pm me your email address I can send you the video on my phone. And when using the light sometimes it doesn't light completely.
Can you Youtube it and post the link here? That way others can chime in as well.

Sometimes a miss at idle is a bad spark plug wire. How are yours? COuld a terminal on one have become loosened as a result of all the handling?
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Unread 08-23-2012, 07:16 PM   #68
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just reg. it in ny $21 no prob's beep beep
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Unread 08-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #69
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plym49

Can you Youtube it and post the link here? That way others can chime in as well.

Sometimes a miss at idle is a bad spark plug wire. How are yours? COuld a terminal on one have become loosened as a result of all the handling?
I think so. I'll have to do it later on though. I forgot to say I ended up doing the team rush. Before you gave your input I ordered the stuff so I figured I might as well since I had it. Plugs are new champion coppers with a blaster2. I learned my lesson the other night, plug 1 wire popped off and I didn't see it and foolishly I tried to plug it into the cap with the motor on and I got shocked real bad. So now I check twice before I fire it up. With the timing retarded too much I would notice that it didn't fire but where it's set now it doesn't fire all the time.

Also, I definitely owe you a twelve pack of your favorite beverage for all your help lol
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Unread 08-23-2012, 09:43 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr View Post
I think so. I'll have to do it later on though. I forgot to say I ended up doing the team rush. Before you gave your input I ordered the stuff so I figured I might as well since I had it. Plugs are new champion coppers with a blaster2. I learned my lesson the other night, plug 1 wire popped off and I didn't see it and foolishly I tried to plug it into the cap with the motor on and I got shocked real bad. So now I check twice before I fire it up. With the timing retarded too much I would notice that it didn't fire but where it's set now it doesn't fire all the time.

Also, I definitely owe you a twelve pack of your favorite beverage for all your help lol
So are the wires new or the old ones? I have lost track of that. New or old, sometimes when they have been handled a lot (off and on) the connection between the wire and the metal terminal end gets flaky. You don't see it because the boot covers it. That can give an intermittent spark.

Also, where is the timing now? How far have you advanced it? I would advance it to the point that the motor idles faster and faster until it starts to break up a bit, and then go back to where it idled best.

Then, test drive it. Even with no hills, you can lug the motor at low vehicle speeds to see if it pings. If it pings a tiny bit you are right on. If it pings more than that, retard it a smidge.

Remember that the rotor spins half as fast as the crankshaft. That means that a 4 degree change in timing seen at the crankshaft (vibration damper with the timing light) requires only 2 degrees of movement of the distributor. So don't get all wackadoodle in turning the distributor a huge amount as the effect at the crank is double. Slight movements, smoothly done, is the trick.

The 12 pack sounds good, but I am not that high maintenance. A couple of draft Guinness will suffice.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 11:12 PM   #71
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They are new wires but have been handled quite a bit. Ill do my best to check. I don't know where it is. I tried to get it to 8 like before but I understand the breaking point of advancing so I'll go that route.

And in all seriousness, pm the info you're comfortable with me having and I'll do my best to get them to you lol.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 11:02 PM   #72
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So for curiosities sake I put the distributor from my old motor in this one and I just looked at the one that was in the motor. The distributor is welded and there is no vac advance! What does this mean?

And I have no real adjustment with the other dizzy either. It basically runs like crap no matter what. There is no advance to make it better. It's advance and it caputs. I'm really regretting this lol.

Edit the numbers in the old, welded one are 7.75R and 6.75R.
image-3150961842.jpg   image-2152802173.jpg  
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Unread 08-25-2012, 11:02 AM   #73
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it means that something electronic in the ignition computer controls the spark advance/retard. Not To Worry.

funky valve sealing could cause the miss, Got a compression check lately?
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Unread 08-25-2012, 11:08 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piotrsko
it means that something electronic in the ignition computer controls the spark advance/retard. Not To Worry.

funky valve sealing could cause the miss, Got a compression check lately?
I wonder why they left the vacuum lines hooked up then. It doesn't do any good from what I can tell. I also got an erratic light from the distributor from my old motor. Which has 13/18 adjustments. And the reman one had 15.

Not on this motor. It has good compression though, when turning the motor by hand to get to tdc there is a real gnarly spot where its hard to run before the exhaust cycle. Then it goes real easy for a tiny bit and hard again.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 11:59 PM   #75
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When I put the distributor in from my old motor, I still had an erratic timing light (do i need to have the vac advance unplugged?). I really have no idea what to do. Being that the timing light was still iffy, I'm leaning toward the icm being bad. But I really have no idea if that's possible, or if that would cause a bad light. I associate the erratic light with a miss. This dang thing passed and ran pretty good in '08. Now I think I've just messed it up lol. Last night an extra ground wire started sizzling when I was trying to time the engine with the welded distributor. I have no idea why, it's never done that before.
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