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Unread 08-08-2012, 12:03 AM   #16
Michaelgoesrawr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NonRubicon
I have the stock ICM on my YJ, Team Rushed with the California Howell TBI kit and it runs it fine and passed smog no problem. HEI dizzys just puts the coil right on top of the distributor, I've heard of benefits and drawbacks to going HEI.

Don't know of the e-coil is significantly better than a beefed up stock style coil. The e-coil uses a different type of wire connector between the coil and dizzy cap than does the stock style (Blaster 2F) coil. You can get adapters though. I picked up the MSD Blaster 2F because it was recommended as a direct swap in and I already had wires that would work with it. The Blaster 2F happens to be C.A.R.B. approved too (comes with a shiny sticker with the E.O.#), but in any case it looks stock and fits in the stock mount with only a little coaxing needed. The e-coil is not C.A.R.B legal to my knowledge.

With that said, any aftermarket non-OEM parts must be C.A.R.B. approved. Because the Team Rush upgrade uses components from a 82 Ford F-150, it isn't technically C.A.R.B legal to put on a YJ, but I seriously any smog tech would notice the difference, let alone care since it actually improves spark delivery over the OEM parts
The ICM is under the coolant res right? When I installed the motor and computer i didnt reinstall one from the other Jeep. Could that cause the always high idle?

And thanks for all the help everyone.

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Unread 08-11-2012, 10:40 AM   #17
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Yep, ICM is under the coolant reservoir. I wouldn't expect a bad ICM to cause high idle though. It could potentially cause an erratic spark though, and in turn an erratic timing light mark.

I think you are looking for something air related for the high idle problem. If you cannot find any vacuum leaks, you may have to manually adjust the base idle (follow the Howell instructions but do the adjustments on a fully warmed engine). If adjusting the idle doesn't work, you may have a problem with the Idle air controller.

Have you checked for any stored codes?
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Unread 08-12-2012, 03:22 AM   #18
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There's a few articles on the web about how to pass smog. They generally speak of almost emptying the tank and getting like 5 gallons of alcahol from wherever...(paint store)? and having their cars and trucks pass with flying colors. If you do some searches under the alcahol premise, I think you'll find something workable for you.
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Unread 08-12-2012, 03:25 AM   #19
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And .....uh, .......... I don't know a guy in Azusa that will make sure you pass for $100 .......................really I don't ....nope to say that would be a fib, nope, I don't know nutti'n ....
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Unread 08-12-2012, 01:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NonRubicon
Yep, ICM is under the coolant reservoir. I wouldn't expect a bad ICM to cause high idle though. It could potentially cause an erratic spark though, and in turn an erratic timing light mark.

I think you are looking for something air related for the high idle problem. If you cannot find any vacuum leaks, you may have to manually adjust the base idle (follow the Howell instructions but do the adjustments on a fully warmed engine). If adjusting the idle doesn't work, you may have a problem with the Idle air controller.

Have you checked for any stored codes?
There is no icm on this Jeep. I took it out and there wasn't one on the harness I installed with the motor. The Erg valve was disconnected and with it reconnected it still idles high but drops like you said to 1k and a little under. The only code I got was 12 over and over. I think I will redo the vacuum lines though because the distributor advance sits right on the valve cover and is charred. Other than that I see no place that there could be leaks except for the throttle body mounting plate which I'll have to check another day.

Can I get rid of the vacuum line on the brake booster? It does to the round container under mg battery tray and I have a posi lok kit so I don't need vacuum to engage 4x4
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Unread 08-12-2012, 03:52 PM   #21
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As far as I know, the 258 needs some sort of Ignition Control Module - either the stock one or aftermarket (like MSD or HEI) - with the Howell TBI Kit. The ICM is what controls the spark - it initiates the signal and sends current to the coil, the coil ramps it up and sends it to the distributor, and the distributor sends it to the plugs. Not sure how it could even run without an ICM. I can only guess that your ICM is aftermarket and somewhere other than the stock location. MSD is the only company that I know of that makes C.A.R.B. legal aftermarket modules for the YJ.

If you are putting in the cable posi-lock, then you don't need the vacuum reservoir or the line going to the manifold vacuum port that the brake booster hooks up to. Just cap off the port.
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Unread 08-12-2012, 04:05 PM   #22
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Call howell and ask to speak with Troy. There customer servive is second to nine. There easy to . And easy to figure it out. They've. Stayed on the phone with me via speaker and walked me right thu a problem. I had. Great guys at howell!!!.
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Unread 08-12-2012, 04:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangecrate
Call howell and ask to speak with Troy. There customer servive is second to nine. There easy to . And easy to figure it out. They've. Stayed on the phone with me via speaker and walked me right thu a problem. I had. Great guys at howell!!!.
I dunno. It's been two weeks and I'm still waiting on a call about getting the carb legal stickers. The first guy I talked to wasn't helpful and was a schmuck. The second person I talked to, a lady was very helpful but alas, no call. I will give it a shot I guess.
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Unread 08-12-2012, 05:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NonRubicon
As far as I know, the 258 needs some sort of Ignition Control Module - either the stock one or aftermarket (like MSD or HEI) - with the Howell TBI Kit. The ICM is what controls the spark - it initiates the signal and sends current to the coil, the coil ramps it up and sends it to the distributor, and the distributor sends it to the plugs. Not sure how it could even run without an ICM. I can only guess that your ICM is aftermarket and somewhere other than the stock location. MSD is the only company that I know of that makes C.A.R.B. legal aftermarket modules for the YJ.

If you are putting in the cable posi-lock, then you don't need the vacuum reservoir or the line going to the manifold vacuum port that the brake booster hooks up to. Just cap off the port.
I already have the posi installed. But thanks. One less vacuum hose is always great. And as for the icm I could trace the wires back from the coil and I'd probably find it right? All there is aside from the computer is a fuse panel and a four prong plug next to it and something mounted on the valve cover. Nothing else but a hack job of wires. Gotta love po's wiring.
image-3263667829.jpg   image-2611208986.jpg   image-2704739581.jpg  
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Unread 08-12-2012, 05:45 PM   #25
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You have to ask fir Troy. Hes the engineer.
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Unread 08-13-2012, 02:35 PM   #26
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Auto Zone, Cap Adapter, $4.99, p/n F960
Auto Zone, Distributor Cap, $20.99, p/n F2104G
Auto Zone, Rotor, $3.99, p/n F953
Auto Zone, Plug Wires, Motorcraft p/n WR4050

This is the part list for the team rush. The plug wires don't exist though. I was gonna order the stuff today but I didn't find a set that I thought would work. Can you advise on a set that works well and will last? And I want to upgrade the coil while I am there too. Is a blaster needed or can I use another brand that is cheaper but better then my stock coil? And will all this even do anything if I don't have an icm? Lol.

I will pinch the purge line when I get home. We are getting the lady friends car serviced at the moment. Again, thanks for your help.
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Unread 08-13-2012, 05:01 PM   #27
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Personally, I do not see any need for Team Rush replacement parts. Millions of these engines ran just fine for years with the factory parts. The same goes for your coil; the stock coil is adequate.

You can of course change out these parts as a point of personal preference, but they will not have any effect on emissions unless your originals were boogered - in which case, stock replacements would do as good a job.

In terms of wires, I always roll my own. Bulk wire and connectors are inexpensive. You will need a decent crimping tool - will last a lifetime.
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Unread 08-13-2012, 05:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plym49
Personally, I do not see any need for Team Rush replacement parts. Millions of these engines ran just fine for years with the factory parts. The same goes for your coil; the stock coil is adequate.

You can of course change out these parts as a point of personal preference, but they will not have any effect on emissions unless your originals were boogered - in which case, stock replacements would do as good a job.

In terms of wires, I always roll my own. Bulk wire and connectors are inexpensive. You will need a decent crimping tool - will last a lifetime.
Fair enough. I've read that an increased gap with a new could produces a hotter spark which ignites fuel better. JeepHammer has a post that shows how the current bounced around the cap and left marks on the rotor. The upgrade is suppose to stop that from happening so that's mostly why I figured I would do it, to prevent cross fires.

In terms of wires, I take it you buy the connections and boots separately? How long does the roll of wire last on the shelf? I like that because it's all cut to fit. Pretty cool. Do you have a specific brand that you use?
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Unread 08-13-2012, 06:13 PM   #29
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The only Howell kit part part I recognize in your photos is the fuse block in the first photo. No idea what the part to the right is in the first photo - it isn't a Howell part though.

The second photo might be your ICM - maybe some sort of HEI style ICM. You've got the right idea to trace the wires from the coil to find the ICM. You must have an ICM somewhere - the computer doesn't send spark for this engine - the ICM does.

Makes me think the TBI setup might be from a junkyard TBI, not the Howell kit. Does the throttle body have a brass tag with an E.O.# on it? The Howell TB should have a tag.

I picked up most of the Team rush parts from Autozone or O'Reilly's (maybe both - don't remember). Look up the parts for the 1982 Ford F-150 with the 300ci L6 to see the whole selection from these stores. The main thing with the cap is to get one that has brass terminals so that you get the best performance. Be aware that some may just be brass plated aluminum - they will oxidize and build up crud fast and soon start to behave like the OEM style cap.

I don't have the tools to make my own wires got the recommended Motorcraft plug wires from SummitRacing. Making your own wires though would allow you to customize the lengths mush better. The Motorcraft wires fit, but they are still criss-crossing here and there.

As far as the coil goes, the only aftermarket coil that I know is C.A.R.B. legal for the YJ is the MSD Blaster 2F, but there could be others. I don't know if any smog tech would pick up on an aftermarket coil though - two different shops didn't notice that my Blaster 2F wasn't OEM, and never asked to see the E.O.#. Check out the CA air resource board website for more details. They have listings of everything that has a C.A.R.B. executive order # making those aftermarket parts legal and for what vehicles those E.O. numbers are valid.

While the stock cap/rotor/coil/wires can run the engine fine, from my experience though the OEM cap/rotor fouls much faster and performance degrades sooner than does the '82 Ford F-150 cap/rotor on the same distributor.
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Unread 08-13-2012, 06:13 PM   #30
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Your ICM is the "standard" marked part. Howell is using a GM ignition and fuel injection system from a 94 era 4.2 V6. The square box has to do with changing the timing, it handles the spark knock sensor for sure, do not remember the other functions.

On that system the ignition ICM also fires the injectors.

If you ned info on how those parts interact, a maint manual for a s-10 Blazer from 94 would have the schematics.
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