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Unread 11-20-2013, 12:10 AM   #1
metalry101
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External Slave update ?'s

Alrighty...so I've got the newer tranny installed...that was easy. Got a brand new clutch bolted up to the flywheel, again, that was easy. That stuff literally bolted in. Now for the part I'm not real sure about. I've got a brand new Master/Slave assembly (one of those all one piece pre-bled units) waiting to go in as the last piece, but I've run into two little issues.

The bolts that secure the clutch master cylinder to the firewall are much closer together on my firewall than they are on the master for the external slave unit. I think I can drill new holes in the mounting plate that sits against the firewall.

The hole on the end of the shaft of the master cylinder where the peg on the pedal goes through is much smaller on the new unit than the old one. I think I can drill the hole out, as it looks like it would need to go from 3/8" to 1/2" in diameter.

The other option that I can find is to buy a '91-'95 pedal assembly (I found several on Ebay for about $50-$70).

What have other people done? I'm not real interested in drilling holes in my new $100 master/slave combo and finding out it's not going to work worth a damn with the old pedals anyways for some reason, but I don't want to spend $70 on new pedals if it's not necessary. I know I'm not the first person to do the internal to external slave swap, but I didn't read about any issues with these parts in those threads. Maybe the other write-ups were about '91 and up, as it seems '87-'90 YJ's ran slightly different pedal assemblies than the '91-95's.

I believe I've been clear enough for anyone familiar with this swap, but if I haven't let me know and I will post pictures.

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Unread 11-20-2013, 05:15 AM   #2
ctm
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I just did this conversion. I drilled a new hole in the master to fit the studs on the firewall and drilled out the shaft hole to 1/2" to fit the pedal. I also used a grinding wheel to make the shaft slightly thinner so that the cotter pin will go on the pedal. No problems.
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Unread 11-20-2013, 12:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctm View Post
I just did this conversion. I drilled a new hole in the master to fit the studs on the firewall and drilled out the shaft hole to 1/2" to fit the pedal. I also used a grinding wheel to make the shaft slightly thinner so that the cotter pin will go on the pedal. No problems.
X2. I did the same thing been working for three years now.
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build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/skyj-eccentric-build-1467426/ '90 YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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Unread 11-20-2013, 03:25 PM   #4
metalry101
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Awesome! Thanks guys. This is what I figured, but I wanted to be sure before I attacked brand new parts.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 08:32 PM   #5
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Alrighty...new issue. I drilled the holes and got it all mounted up, but the it doesn't disengage the clutch enough to shift. I checked the master and it was pretty full of fluid. This is a one piece unit that doesn't require bleeding...or at least that's the theory. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Unread 11-24-2013, 10:56 AM   #6
ReDinTX
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did yall use a newer tranny or just put the newer front bearing cover on your tranny?
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Unread 11-25-2013, 11:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReDinTX View Post
did yall use a newer tranny or just put the newer front bearing cover on your tranny?
I used the whole tranny out of a '95.
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Unread 11-25-2013, 12:03 PM   #8
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Will it shift through the gears with the engine off without using the clutch?
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Unread 11-25-2013, 12:18 PM   #9
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After I did the swap I wasnt really to pleased with its engagement and disengagement either it seemed too soft and had to let the pedal out to far for it to grab. I never really messed with it and it has been working fine for three years. Now im not sayin live with it like i have If I do remeber right isnt there a plastic spacer on the slave that might be able to be removed to get it to sit closer to the bellhousing thus allowing more engagement. Im not sure I would mess with my but I am replacing my motor with a v8 and am going with a different clutch soon, so I will have to let you know how my new setup works with the new clutch.

And yes you should be able to row through the gears with the engine off and not pushing in the clutch.
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Unread 11-25-2013, 12:20 PM   #10
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Will it shift through the gears with the engine off without using the clutch?
Yes. Fifth gear is a little stiff, but every other gear works great with the engine off.

When I put it in neutral and start it and then shove in the clutch to put it in gear it won't go. It doesn't even try to go into first or second. It tries to go in reverse. I can get it far enough into reverse to trip the sensor for the reverse lights, but it just grinds the gears so I don't force it.
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Unread 11-26-2013, 01:04 PM   #11
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I would try to bleed the slave cylinder before I tore into anything. You can also take the slave cylinder off and just make sure the shaft is seating properly on the shifting fork. You can also try to take the plastic shim off the front of the slave cylinder and see if that works. It doesn't seem like a transmission problem. Good luck.
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Unread 11-26-2013, 02:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Latefreight727 View Post
I would try to bleed the slave cylinder before I tore into anything. You can also take the slave cylinder off and just make sure the shaft is seating properly on the shifting fork. You can also try to take the plastic shim off the front of the slave cylinder and see if that works. It doesn't seem like a transmission problem. Good luck.
I did take the plastic shim off the front of the slave. It didn't seem to make any difference whatsoever unfortunately. I was expecting it to help a little, but nope. :-(

My slave and master came pre-bled and don't have a place to bleed them or I would do that.

I do believe the slave is seated properly, but perhaps it isn't.

Thanks for the help. I'm hoping I don't have to drop the tranny again.
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Unread 11-27-2013, 06:31 AM   #13
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What brand of master/slave did you get. Mine is a Sachs SPH012 and works perfectly. When I bolted the slave to the bellhousing, it would not go on all the way and I used the bolts to snug it up and push it in all the way. This is the way it should be and it means the slave has good engagement with the fork. Did yours install like that?
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Unread 11-30-2013, 06:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctm View Post
What brand of master/slave did you get. Mine is a Sachs SPH012 and works perfectly. When I bolted the slave to the bellhousing, it would not go on all the way and I used the bolts to snug it up and push it in all the way. This is the way it should be and it means the slave has good engagement with the fork. Did yours install like that?
I got a Dorman one. I read in another thread that it was a good brand. It wasn't like that the first time because of the retaining straps, but the second time I used the bolts to pull it in.
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