Explorer 8.8 Axle Teardown/Rebuild/Install - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 139 Old 02-27-2014, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
Feetwet
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Yeah, I wouldn't go any further without the driveshaft to complete the mockup.
Angle finders rule at this stage...

I'll check your build thread for updates.
Keepin a good thought for ya...


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post #107 of 139 Old 02-27-2014, 06:30 PM
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thanks for the props!
been doing alot in the 2 hour window I get each day after work/errands and before dinner/bed.
Some folks have been telling me just to eyeball the pinion and im sure it would work but...I'll stick with the overly cautious approach

I do have an angle finder app on my phone which works pretty well, wish it had decimals otherwise the HF one is 4.99
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post #108 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 09:17 AM
johnboy68
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I came into some extra money and went hog wild on buying parts to finish my 8.8 install and then some.

I got the RuffStuff simple install kit and the brake parts from East Coast Gear Supply. I didn't get the shorter perches, so I'll be cutting mine down.

On a side note: I also got Zone 2" lift springs w/new bushings, a JB Conversions SYE, an Aussie locker for the front and lubelockers for both difs...

So here is a question: Should I install the SYE and mock up the 8.8 perches THEN get my XJ shaft sized THEN do the final angle measurements before I weld the perches on?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go through the install.
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post #109 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 09:40 AM
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
I came into some extra money and went hog wild on buying parts to finish my 8.8 install and then some.

I got the RuffStuff simple install kit and the brake parts from East Coast Gear Supply. I didn't get the shorter perches, so I'll be cutting mine down.

On a side note: I also got Zone 2" lift springs w/new bushings, a JB Conversions SYE, an Aussie locker for the front and lubelockers for both difs...

So here is a question: Should I install the SYE and mock up the 8.8 perches then get my XJ shaft sized THEN do the final angle measurements before I weld the perches on?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go through the install.
That's how I'd do it. Even if you were 10 degrees off when you measure for the shaft, that only works out to about 1/4" - 1/2" (depending on several variables) of deviation in length (since you can easily eyeball it closer than 10 degrees out, that'd be close enough for me).

I'd install the sye, springs, and put the axle in place (with mounts not welded), get the axle as close as you can, measure for shaft, install shaft, set final angle, tack mounts, remove axle, weld, paint, install, drive it for a while and measure again. If it changes (it will change) enough to bother you, use shims.

Edit: I've only done this a couple of times and have good results. Anyone who has a better method, please chime in.

“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values
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post #110 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hey John.
Definitely install the SYE first, then mock up the new axle with the perch U bolts Just Snug. Then set the jeep back on it's feet. Guesstimate the final weight in the rear and allow for that ( full tank of gas, hardtop, tools, etc). Sandbags or such will work for setting up.

You can use a straightedge clamped to the fin on the 8.8 to set up your pinion angle. Just measure the offset from your straightedge to the center of the pinion flange and match that measurement when you point it at the transfer case output. Say your straightedge, when clamped in place, is 3" from the center of the flange yolk. Hold 3" off the center of the TC output and you should be right in the ballpark for a Driveshaft measurement. Clear as mud, right?

Tom Woods offers a CV shaft with extended splines, 7" IIRC. That's the one I'm using. You could take a half inch off your final measurement and still have plenty of spline engaged...

I wouldn't tack or weld anything until you have the driveshaft in hand. You don't want to do any of this over again.

Once welded, the perches aren't moving. No need for future shimming. That's why you're doing it this way in the first place.

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post #111 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
Once welded, the perches aren't moving. No need for future shimming. That's why you're doing it this way in the first place.
I didn't say that the perches would move. I said that the angle would change. I wasn't talking about the angle of the rear axle (I should have been more clear). I was talking about the angle of the drive shaft. He's using a new set of springs. You won't know your final angle until they've "settled".

You can figure out exact weights, use sandbags (in the proper locations to mimic weight distribution), and drive yourself crazy if you want, but regardless of how you go about it, 500 miles of roads and trails later your driveshaft will be at a different angle. The amount of deviation will vary wildly depending on the amount of lift and the quality of the springs.

The two that I've done didn't need shims to make everything happy, but I've seen some that were far enough out that it wouldn't have hurt.

“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values
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post #112 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ View Post
I didn't say that the perches would move. I said that the angle would change. I wasn't talking about the angle of the rear axle (I should have been more clear). I was talking about the angle of the drive shaft. He's using a new set of springs. You won't know your final angle until they've "settled".

You can figure out exact weights, use sandbags (in the proper locations to mimic weight distribution), and drive yourself crazy if you want, but regardless of how you go about it, 500 miles of roads and trails later your driveshaft will be at a different angle. The amount of deviation will vary wildly depending on the amount of lift and the quality of the springs.

The two that I've done didn't need shims to make everything happy, but I've seen some that were far enough out that it wouldn't have hurt.
I agree. Just did this with new springs. Just yanking the 8.8 out to weld and putting it back in netted a 2 degree change from where it was tacked. Probably easier on used springs


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post #113 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Fair enough. Springs will settle some, weight in the rear will vary, etc.

2 or 3* low will still be the target at install.

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post #114 of 139 Old 04-03-2014, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
Fair enough. Springs will settle some, weight in the rear will vary, etc.

2 or 3* low will still be the target at install.
Not arguing with you at all (or about the way you went about setting yours up). I'm just saying that when new springs are involved, it's not a "set it and forget it" scenario. Once everything has settled in and is stabilized to the "new" normal, you've just got to revisit the issue and address the situation if needed.

A lot of folks don't take another look until there's a problem, and even more complain about "bad installs" that someone else did previously.

“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values
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post #115 of 139 Old 09-24-2014, 08:42 PM
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So ive read this thread a couple times and i cannot believe that i have NEVER noticed that you are pretty much my neighbor at the beach..... My family just bought the house on corner of north street and west. Ive always admired your jeep and after reading through this whole thread because im preparing to do the swap soon and i just realized it was your jeep. Im mind blown lol. My jeep is the green YJ with the black peeling hood lol. I drove it down alot this summer for the weekends.
Heres my jeep infront of my house there. If you ever see my jeep down or i see you Id like to talk, your jeeps sweet.

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post #116 of 139 Old 09-25-2014, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Now THAT'S what I call serendipity...

I see Every Jeep in my neighborhood and I've seen yours around as well. Just never knew you lived within spittin distance. The pie-shaped lot?

Thanks for the kind words about my heep. Beach permits just went active here and I'm rigging out for fall striper season (damn sand gets in everything...). Adding waterproof seat covers, prepping and re-painting the cargo rack and rod holders, beach recovery equipment back on board, etc.

I'll keep an eye out for ya. If you need any help with the axle swap let me know. PM or walk down the alley...

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post #117 of 139 Old 09-25-2014, 11:30 AM
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Now THAT'S what I call serendipity...

I see Every Jeep in my neighborhood and I've seen yours around as well. Just never knew you lived within spittin distance. The pie-shaped lot?

Thanks for the kind words about my heep. Beach permits just went active here and I'm rigging out for fall striper season (damn sand gets in everything...). Adding waterproof seat covers, prepping and re-painting the cargo rack and rod holders, beach recovery equipment back on board, etc.

I'll keep an eye out for ya. If you need any help with the axle swap let me know. PM or walk down the alley...
Im just a weekend warrior but im going to try to come down in the winter to get away and my friend and I were gonna try to take our jeeps onto the beach. We thought it would be cool to do lol. I actually live in the house on the corner of north, idk if you know sean but the guy with the huge house? well we bought his old one, it was for sale for awhile.

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35" Procomp MT2s, 5.5 inches of lift, RE 4.5 XD, Bilsteins, MORE body lift, Bumpers,TJ flat fender flares, HD steering, Durango steering box, ZJ 136amp alt, Ford 8.8 Rear, 4.56s
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post #118 of 139 Old 09-25-2014, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Permits for Corson's Inlet are easy to get. $50 at the Ranger Station in Woodbine, good for a year.
Ocean City, not so easy. Waiting list and $125 if you do get one.

Fines are pretty hefty if you are caught on the beach without one.

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post #119 of 139 Old 09-25-2014, 07:08 PM
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New Jersey and Rhode Island sound like so much fun! I love the rules though:

Permits are issued to 4-wheel drive vehicle owners for fishing purposes only. Carrying the basic equipment listed is required whenever the MSFV is on the beach.
1) Fishing equipment and bait and tackle for each person over 12 years of age;
2) Tire gauge;
3) Spare tire;
4) Workable jack and board/support for jack in sand (3/4 in. x 12 x 12 in. plywood square minimum size)
5) Tow chain or snatch line;
6) Shovel;
7) Flashlight;
8) Fire extinguisher;
9) Auto first aid kit;
10) Litter/trash bag;
11) Minimum of 1/4 tank of fuel.

How many old threads actually convince *you* to read all 36 pages? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/length-envy-build-thread-629700/
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post #120 of 139 Old 09-26-2014, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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Yup. That's pretty standard.

I carry all that stuff as a rule when I'm on the beach anyway.

If I'm riding the beaches with my Springer just for fun, I carry a small cast net. Satisfies the "fishing equipment" portion of the rule. The bait part I'll just say I haven't netted any yet...

Never been checked out anyway....they're pretty decent around here.

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Hand Throttle Install

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