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Unread 02-27-2014, 06:23 PM   #106
Feetwet
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Yeah, I wouldn't go any further without the driveshaft to complete the mockup.
Angle finders rule at this stage...

I'll check your build thread for updates.
Keepin a good thought for ya...

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Unread 02-27-2014, 06:30 PM   #107
The_Goob
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thanks for the props!
been doing alot in the 2 hour window I get each day after work/errands and before dinner/bed.
Some folks have been telling me just to eyeball the pinion and im sure it would work but...I'll stick with the overly cautious approach

I do have an angle finder app on my phone which works pretty well, wish it had decimals otherwise the HF one is 4.99
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Unread 04-03-2014, 09:17 AM   #108
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I came into some extra money and went hog wild on buying parts to finish my 8.8 install and then some.

I got the RuffStuff simple install kit and the brake parts from East Coast Gear Supply. I didn't get the shorter perches, so I'll be cutting mine down.

On a side note: I also got Zone 2" lift springs w/new bushings, a JB Conversions SYE, an Aussie locker for the front and lubelockers for both difs...

So here is a question: Should I install the SYE and mock up the 8.8 perches THEN get my XJ shaft sized THEN do the final angle measurements before I weld the perches on?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go through the install.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 09:40 AM   #109
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
I came into some extra money and went hog wild on buying parts to finish my 8.8 install and then some.

I got the RuffStuff simple install kit and the brake parts from East Coast Gear Supply. I didn't get the shorter perches, so I'll be cutting mine down.

On a side note: I also got Zone 2" lift springs w/new bushings, a JB Conversions SYE, an Aussie locker for the front and lubelockers for both difs...

So here is a question: Should I install the SYE and mock up the 8.8 perches then get my XJ shaft sized THEN do the final angle measurements before I weld the perches on?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go through the install.
That's how I'd do it. Even if you were 10 degrees off when you measure for the shaft, that only works out to about 1/4" - 1/2" (depending on several variables) of deviation in length (since you can easily eyeball it closer than 10 degrees out, that'd be close enough for me).

I'd install the sye, springs, and put the axle in place (with mounts not welded), get the axle as close as you can, measure for shaft, install shaft, set final angle, tack mounts, remove axle, weld, paint, install, drive it for a while and measure again. If it changes (it will change) enough to bother you, use shims.

Edit: I've only done this a couple of times and have good results. Anyone who has a better method, please chime in.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 04:38 PM   #110
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Hey John.
Definitely install the SYE first, then mock up the new axle with the perch U bolts Just Snug. Then set the jeep back on it's feet. Guesstimate the final weight in the rear and allow for that ( full tank of gas, hardtop, tools, etc). Sandbags or such will work for setting up.

You can use a straightedge clamped to the fin on the 8.8 to set up your pinion angle. Just measure the offset from your straightedge to the center of the pinion flange and match that measurement when you point it at the transfer case output. Say your straightedge, when clamped in place, is 3" from the center of the flange yolk. Hold 3" off the center of the TC output and you should be right in the ballpark for a Driveshaft measurement. Clear as mud, right?

Tom Woods offers a CV shaft with extended splines, 7" IIRC. That's the one I'm using. You could take a half inch off your final measurement and still have plenty of spline engaged...

I wouldn't tack or weld anything until you have the driveshaft in hand. You don't want to do any of this over again.

Once welded, the perches aren't moving. No need for future shimming. That's why you're doing it this way in the first place.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 05:06 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
Once welded, the perches aren't moving. No need for future shimming. That's why you're doing it this way in the first place.
I didn't say that the perches would move. I said that the angle would change. I wasn't talking about the angle of the rear axle (I should have been more clear). I was talking about the angle of the drive shaft. He's using a new set of springs. You won't know your final angle until they've "settled".

You can figure out exact weights, use sandbags (in the proper locations to mimic weight distribution), and drive yourself crazy if you want, but regardless of how you go about it, 500 miles of roads and trails later your driveshaft will be at a different angle. The amount of deviation will vary wildly depending on the amount of lift and the quality of the springs.

The two that I've done didn't need shims to make everything happy, but I've seen some that were far enough out that it wouldn't have hurt.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 05:21 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ View Post
I didn't say that the perches would move. I said that the angle would change. I wasn't talking about the angle of the rear axle (I should have been more clear). I was talking about the angle of the drive shaft. He's using a new set of springs. You won't know your final angle until they've "settled".

You can figure out exact weights, use sandbags (in the proper locations to mimic weight distribution), and drive yourself crazy if you want, but regardless of how you go about it, 500 miles of roads and trails later your driveshaft will be at a different angle. The amount of deviation will vary wildly depending on the amount of lift and the quality of the springs.

The two that I've done didn't need shims to make everything happy, but I've seen some that were far enough out that it wouldn't have hurt.
I agree. Just did this with new springs. Just yanking the 8.8 out to weld and putting it back in netted a 2 degree change from where it was tacked. Probably easier on used springs


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Unread 04-03-2014, 05:26 PM   #113
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Fair enough. Springs will settle some, weight in the rear will vary, etc.

2 or 3* low will still be the target at install.
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Unread 04-03-2014, 05:39 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
Fair enough. Springs will settle some, weight in the rear will vary, etc.

2 or 3* low will still be the target at install.
Not arguing with you at all (or about the way you went about setting yours up). I'm just saying that when new springs are involved, it's not a "set it and forget it" scenario. Once everything has settled in and is stabilized to the "new" normal, you've just got to revisit the issue and address the situation if needed.

A lot of folks don't take another look until there's a problem, and even more complain about "bad installs" that someone else did previously.
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