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Unread 09-15-2013, 05:31 AM   #31
SeanB95YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
The perches are made for both 3 1/8" and 3 1/4" axles. As I have the 8.8 @ 3 1/4", I had to grind these nubs off the two perches for a perfect fit.
When I did mine a couple months ago, I used the kit from ECGS... basically the same parts, same beefiness, but after seeing this I sort of wish I had gone with Ruff Stuff... the perches from ECGS don't have those handy little tabs to grind off... I had to grind the entire circle out. not the end of the world, but definitely a time consuming process I could have done without

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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
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Unread 09-15-2013, 05:56 AM   #32
Feetwet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dake View Post
Great write-up Im right in the middle of this project and this is vary helpful. I think my brake lines mat be on the right sides?
Hooking up the Brakes coming next.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Nope, they're there so the perch fits more than one application.

Grinding them off for a proper fit is the correct procedure.

Max
Hi Max!
Thanks for stopping in!

Quote:
Originally Posted by yotefever View Post
Thanks for the write up I will be looking at it in the near future to do my 8.8.
Hope it helps you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ View Post
When I did mine a couple months ago, I used the kit from ECGS... basically the same parts, same beefiness, but after seeing this I sort of wish I had gone with Ruff Stuff... the perches from ECGS don't have those handy little tabs to grind off... I had to grind the entire circle out. not the end of the world, but definitely a time consuming process I could have done without
I looked at ECGS's kit. They are both about the same. The nub thing sold me on RuffStuff.
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

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Unread 09-15-2013, 06:01 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrestler22115 View Post
Which Shocks are they? im about to finally swap the 8.8 in and was confused about the shocks.
Old Man Emu, sized for my lift.
What do you need help with regarding shocks?
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

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Unread 09-15-2013, 06:57 AM   #34
SeanB95YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
I looked at ECGS's kit. They are both about the same. The nub thing sold me on RuffStuff.
oh yeah... and another plus for Ruff Stuff as I was skimming through this thread again -
the u-bolt plates from ECGS have just the one center hole while the perches have 3 for offset mounting. I see the Ruff Stuff have 3 holes in BOTH the perches AND the plates.
I mounted mine in the forward hole to give ~1" stretch, but then had to drill a matching hole in the plate
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
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Unread 09-15-2013, 07:24 AM   #35
Feetwet
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Welding up the perches and shock tabs is straight forward. If you can weld, you know what to do. If not, someone else is doing it for you anyway...

One quick note. i didn't tack the shock tabs, just marked them.

Holding them in place for welding .


Since I'm running a completely new brake system on this axle, I thought this would be a good place to go over working with and flaring the hardlines.

The Jeep and the 8.8 use 3/16" hard brake line. You can buy rolls of the stuff or various premade lengths. I prefer the green painted stock in 25' roll, and make them up as I need.

As I mentioned earlier, I had to cut the supply from the master cylinder due to rust. I picked a spot along the frame rail that was good metal and easy to access. I prepared a temporary fitting with one end crimped in advance to slip on to prevent the master from draining all over my work area. It only took a moment to slide a fitting onto the Jeep line and flare that end after cutting.


First, you need one of these.


Additional tools and supplies...


Load tubing cutter to your marked length. Tighten and twist, tighten and twist...


Dress up the cut end with fine sandpaper, use a utility knife to deburr the inside of the tube if needed.

Load the clamp through the hole marked for 3/16". Place the 3/16" die upside down on the clamp next to your tubing and adjust the height to match the lower shoulder of the die.


Lock it down.


Now reverse the die and place it in the end of your tubing.


Attach Die Press, center the tip in the Die.


Crank down tight.


Loosen Press, remove the Die and recenter the Press tip in the tubing.


Crank down tight again.


Remove Press and admire your new double flared brake line. Dress up any burring from the clamp with your fine sandpaper.


In this case, I can still slide the fitting on from the other end.


It is VERY IMPORTANT that you install your fittings prior to flaring or bending the brake line.....otherwise, you'll get lots of extra practice...
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

AX5 Vent Install
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Unread 09-15-2013, 07:26 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ View Post
oh yeah... and another plus for Ruff Stuff as I was skimming through this thread again -
the u-bolt plates from ECGS have just the one center hole while the perches have 3 for offset mounting. I see the Ruff Stuff have 3 holes in BOTH the perches AND the plates.
I mounted mine in the forward hole to give ~1" stretch, but then had to drill a matching hole in the plate
You make me happy I went with RuffStuff.
Sounds like ECGS wants us to practice our Fab skills....

I thought about using the forward holes for a modest stretch but didn't want to get into clearance issues with the Diff against the gas tank skid.
Then I went and got a Beefy New Diff Cover and had clearance issues anyway...

That fix to be covered shortly...
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

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Unread 09-16-2013, 11:57 AM   #37
wrestler22115
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Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Feetwet View Post
Old Man Emu, sized for my lift.
What do you need help with regarding shocks?
I wasn't sure the length of the shock to use when swapping the 8.8 over. I have everything ready to go except for the shocks. I wanted to get new shocks when i did it just didnt know if i had to buy the relocating bracket.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 05:35 PM   #38
Feetwet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrestler22115 View Post
I wasn't sure the length of the shock to use when swapping the 8.8 over. I have everything ready to go except for the shocks. I wanted to get new shocks when i did it just didnt know if i had to buy the relocating bracket.
If you're going to go new, measure your existing setup with a couple modifications. The 8.8 is just a bit bigger than the D35, but an inch or so won't be significant to your final shock size. Then give Old Man EMU a call. They will supply the correct sized shock for your application. Nice folks over there.
This assumes you will keep your existing suspension height ( lift ).
First, decide where you will put the lower mounts. I put mine even with the bottom of the tube. Measure from there to the upper shock mount. This is your ride height.
Next jack up the frame til the tire is off the ground and take the same measurement. This is your droop, or fully extended length.
Lastly, you need your compressed length. A quick and dirty way to get this is measure, at ride height, the distance from your frame bumpstop to the top of the axle. Subtract this from your ride height length to give compressed length.

They can supply a shock that will operate within these parameters. No relocating bracket needed.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 06:21 PM   #39
Feetwet
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Now to get those new disc brakes hooked up. With the axle back out and perches and tabs welded up, it's ready for brake line install.

The Exploder Master Cylinder feeds the passenger rear brake area, then branches over to the driver side. I want to go simple and more direct.

Take the OEM spec hose for the Passenger side and attach it to the Awesome and Conveniently located Old/New Brakeline Driver side bracket. This is the "T" Hose.


Copper washers (supplied with calipers) go under Banjo Bolt head and on bolt end.


Torque the Banjo Bolts to 23ftlbs.


The upper "T" hose goes to Jeep supply line coming down the Driver Frame Rail.


Passenger side uses the Single hose spec'd for driverside.




After the hoses are installed and bolted to your new axle brackets you can use your newfound brake flaring skills to run a hard line from one caliper, up and over the Diff to the other caliper. These pics show the new line ends attached.

I ran the line through existing tabs on the axle and top of Diff. Wrapped em in some rubber hose to prevent that chafing thing and tapped the tabs down snug.


Everything checked out? Hey, there's a good spot for this thing....


Driveway angle makes the springs look all wonky, trust me, they are okay...
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Unread 09-16-2013, 06:33 PM   #40
Mean Max
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Lookin' good!

Just got my 8.8 axle swap kit from RuffStuff today! Got a swap on the schedule for a '95 YJ this week, waiting on E-brake cables & a companion flange from M.O.R.E.

Max
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:15 PM   #41
Feetwet
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8.8 Axle is back under the Jeep for good this time...at least til I go for Tons....

Shackles reattached, perches over centering pin heads, U bolts torqued to 90ftlbs and cut off to a reasonable length. Will recheck torque after a few miles.

Time to hook the axle systems to the Jeep.

First, the brakes. Attach Driver brake "T" hose to Jeepside bracket.




Slide clip into groove in the fitting, tap back tight to lock it in.


Bolt the bracket back into place and attach Jeep Brake Feed Line. Siphoned most of the old fluid out of the Master, replaced with new. Then I bled the brakes at this point, with the tires out of the way. That procedure is all over out there, no need to detail it here, other than to say that I bled all four corners, RR, LR, RF, LF, even though I only worked on the back brakes. Got an Awesome pedal, can't wait to see if I can lock up my 33s...

Watch the Master, don't let it suck air...

Now the Axle Vent Hose. 3/8" I.D. Fuel Hose will do nicely, just happened to have a spool. Attach one end with a hose clamp to the conveniently located nipple.


Feed it up and over the rear crossmember into the space behind the driver tail light. Remove that small plastic cover underneath and you can get into that space. Leave a coil over the axle for droop, push it up behind the tail light to the top of the space, mark with your finger, pull it back down and cut it off. Add the breather cap you stole from the D35 , push it back up and clip it there.


If you don't have the original clip you can tape it to the tail light wiring, zip tie it or be creative. Just make sure it's as high as it can be, and STAYS there.

Next up, those pesky E Brakes...
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:32 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Lookin' good!

Just got my 8.8 axle swap kit from RuffStuff today! Got a swap on the schedule for a '95 YJ this week, waiting on E-brake cables & a companion flange from M.O.R.E.

Max
You'll like that RuffStuff Kit if you haven't used it before. I was impressed.

My 8.8 came with the original E brake cables.
They were in great shape and will be modified to fit my Jeep (my next update, actually) .

Glad to see you're still making people's Jeeps happy. Are you going full time these days?
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Unread 09-16-2013, 09:17 PM   #43
Mean Max
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I've used a half dozen or so of those kits, I love them.

Yep, full time since November 10, 2011, when Pratt & Whitney laid me off. I'm still struggling, but I'm happy!

Max
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Quote:
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 09:32 PM   #44
Feetwet
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I got this 8.8 with the E Brake cables still attached. They were in great shape so they will be reworked to fit my Jeep.

I read JBolty's writeup in the YJ FAQs, found here:http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/8...lution-579710/.

Thanks for that JB.
I used some of it and changed a couple things. Here's how I did mine.

As a Building Contractor, I've got a few tools in the arsenal some guys may not have readily available but for $20 at Home Depot, this is da bomb. A Swaging press.


Grab up 2 hose barbs, 1/8" x 3/8", and some 1/8" and 1/4" ferrule stops.


Tie your E Brake pedal into the fully UP position.

Attach Brake Cable at the axle and feed it up to the mounting bracket on the frame rail. Mark length to bracket and remove from Jeep.


Pull cable back through sheath so you don't cut it yet. Cut through rubber sheath and wound steel inner liner. Cutoff wheel for this.


Install the two hose barbs on your cables. Push the wire cable back through the sheath and pull tight.

This is a mock up at the bracket. Bracket, 1/4" x 1" spacer and 1/8" swage fitting on cable.


Reattach cable at brake, feed back through mounting bracket and up to the equalizer bracket. The equalizer should be slacked off to allow for maximum adjustment later.

Seat the hose barbs in the frame bracket and feed the wire up through the equalizer .


Add your spacer and swage fitting, hold everything even and get a mark on the cable. Slack everything off and crimp your swage fitting at your mark.


Now push it all together and begin to snug up your Equalizer Bracket Nut til everything is seated. Start tightening the nut until you feel the slack has gone out of the cables. Check pedal and adjust until you have firm engagement at about halfway down on the pedal.


Cut off the excess wire cable and cross that job off the list.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 09:37 PM   #45
Feetwet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
I've used a half dozen or so of those kits, I love them.

Yep, full time since November 10, 2011, when Pratt & Whitney laid me off. I'm still struggling, but I'm happy!

Max
Well there's a lot of Jeeps in Florida, they'll come to you if they want it done right.

By the way, I don't know if I trust any airplane engines made after November 11, 2011........
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

AX5 Vent Install
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