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Unread 09-04-2013, 05:47 PM   #16
Feetwet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Nice write up, nice work.

It appears at some point you've already cut off the old perch's. Did you take measurements prior? It could be helpful/easier for the new perch location.
WRM
Thanks WRM.
Not a lot to cutting off the brackets and others have covered it so I kinda blew past that in the writeup...

As for measurements, I pulled centers from the shoulders of the diff housing on each side where the tubes enter. Made a snazzy drawing and everything...
I'll locate the perches from there and cover that in the writeup at that point.

Thanks for picking up on that..

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Feetwet's Ford 8.8 Axle Teardown/Rebuild/Install

AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

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Unread 09-04-2013, 05:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster93 View Post
Good writeup.

I welded the whole tubes. I needed to rent a 220v welder, all I have is a 110 wire welder(not good enough for tubes), and it was $$ to rent($60 for the morning), so I welded the whole thing. With nickel rods. Bought more rods than needed so I used them up...)Preheated it with a torch too. Used my wire welder for the rest of the welding.
I had plenty of buzzbox, no worry there. Penetration on the stitches looked okay but I'm no pro.
I'll keep an eye on em, see if they show any cracking down the road...so to speak...
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:48 PM   #18
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Very detailed. Good write up.
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Unread 09-13-2013, 07:58 PM   #19
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The Axle build progresses. Picked up the parts for the brake job.

Got the new OEM calipers painted up. No need to go high end on these, they'll be just fine. I'm partial to the Blue Engine Enamel for the brakes.


Got the Spicer 1330 Flange Yolk and painted that up. Taped off the bearing cups though...


OEM Brake hoses spec'ed for the 98 Exploder, Pass and Driver side.
These will be switched side for side upon install. You'll see why...


The caliper install tools.


Went with the High End shoes, Good, Better, Best type deal.

Here's how you load them.
Inner shoe goes in first. It has a 3 prong back, full notch and Wear Indicator Clip at the bottom.


Press it all the way in.


Now the outer, full notch at bottom again. Just clip it on.


The metal sleeve inside the rubber boot may need to be slid back toward the outside. May be a snug fit, even with the factory lube.


these notches need to be at the bottom.


Set the aforementioned notches onto the lower arm of the bracket.


Then roll the caliper forward til it rests against the upper arm..


A liberal dose of Antisieze on the caliper bolts, align the holes and crank em home. Torque to 7-15ftlbs.


Should look like this when you're through. Bleeder at the TOP if you please....




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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

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Unread 09-13-2013, 08:54 PM   #20
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Next up, the kind folks at RuffStuff sent along a Care package. Item # 88SS-31 Rear Axle Swap 31 Spline.

I knew it was a popular kit but I wasn't ready for the BEEF of these things.


The perches are made for both 3 1/8" and 3 1/4" axles. As I have the 8.8 @ 3 1/4", I had to grind these nubs off the two perches for a perfect fit.


You could hang a whole Jeep off these spring plates...


Shock tabs, small but powerful, like a suitcase nuke...


Nubs ground off.


I need to talk about these perches for a moment.
As delivered, they measure 8" from end to end. This is ostensibly to help prevent axle wrap and can be used in either a spring under or spring over application.
In my spring under setup, an 8" perch would greatly inhibit spring flex, acting as a strongback, or straightedge, along the top of the spring.

The solution is to cut it down to size. The perches on the D35 were 4" long. The flat section of the New Spring Plate is 4 1/2" long. That sounded like a reasonable length to go with, retaining most of the central strength of the perch but not binding up the spring.

So...off with its ends!!


Smoothed up and ready for paint. I'll find something for those cutoffs, maybe build a trailer out of em...


Meanwhile, the Supervisor doesn't like the whining of the grinder.


Done? OK, it's all good...
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

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Unread 09-13-2013, 09:42 PM   #21
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The old perches from the 8.8 had nifty brake hose mounting points built into them. I thought this was an elegant and simple method so decided to reuse them.

A little cutoff wheel work...


Nice fit.


Mocked up.


I'll weld these in place before the perches go on the axle.

Now to get that D35 outta there.
My driveway has a pretty good slant to it. I'll need to start with the Jeep level and jack it up from there to do the removal, set it back down level to mock up the pinion angle, then jack it back up to do the removal/welding/reinstall, without having to reset all my blocking.

So start here...level, all the weight on the tires.


Jacked it up the rear til the tires were clear and blocked it there. Frame fully resting on solid cribbing. Front tires were chocked. Rear tires were pulled.

D35 brake line mounting bracket off first. Liberal PB Blaster, then pull the tab out of the fitting. This feed from the master cylinder was badly rusted. I cut it off along the frame rail. Replacement will be covered shortly.


Disconnect the driveshaft and remove the lower section from the Jeep for installation of the Flange Yolk. Tom Woods wasn't happy being yanked out.


Disconnect D35 E Brake cables next. With E Brake OFF...
Back off the tensioning nut.


Pull ends through loose bracket.


These clips are held in by three metal tabs. Compress all three at once and pull clip through to the rear.




Pull cables to the rear and out.
Cut the U Bolts and axle is resting free in the springs. I was able to disconnect the vent from its clip up behind the tail light and pull it out over the rear crossmember.

Disconnect the rear shackles and drop the springs down and out she comes. just like delivering a baby....well, sort of....
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AX5 Output Shaft Seal Replacement

Hand Throttle Install

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Unread 09-14-2013, 07:39 AM   #22
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I had previously installed 8* shims on the springs to reset the pinion angle after the SYE install. These need to come out.

C clamp on the spring pack.


Unbolt the center pin and remove it. Shim comes right out. I put the nut back on for a moment.


Center pin will go back in but first, I sized it against the new perches and plate. The holes need to be reamed a bit for a good fit.




Time to layout the new perch locations. I know the pinion angle will need to be in the 15* range. That was the angle with the D35 in there.
Rotated the pinion in the cradle to 15* nose up. This will approximate final positioning.

Before I cut off the old 8.8 perches, I located their centerlines by measuring out from the shoulder of the Differential housing. Marking the spot earlier wouldn't work, as I cleaned and sanded the 8.8 tubes several times over the course of the job.

This shoulder here.


Measure out from the shoulder 9 15/16" for CL on Passenger side, 12 15/16" for CL on Driver side. These are the ORIGINAL 8.8 perch locations.

Exhaustive research and several visits to the Library of Congress revealed that moving the perches OUTBOARD 9/16" on each side would give the correct locations for bolting up to the YJ springs. In addition, CL to CL on the D35 perches is 40 1/2".

After marking the new locations, I measured the centerlines between two speed squares set at each end and found 40 1/2" exactly. Go figure.

Marked the outsides of the perches and reassembled everything under the Jeep.




Rehang the shackles, U Bolts in fairly snug, tires back on and set her back on
her feet. Jumped up and down on the rear bumper to settle the suspension.




Need to connect up the driveshaft to get the angles set up.

First, swap out the rear U Joint ( why not?) and install Flange Yolk.


Install driveshaft temporarily, get a jack under the pinion nose and a magnetic angle finder and see what's what.


I settled on a pinion angle of 13* and a driveshaft angle of 15*. (Pinion 2* lower to allow for slight axle wrap during acceleration.)
I'm very happy with these numbers. There will be no issues with getting gear oil to the outer (upper) pinion bearing, or having to grossly overfill the Diff.

I bought Old Man Emu shocks a while back, knowing I was going to swap in the 8.8 and had them sized accordingly.
The shocks lay just inside the new perch locations. I checked uptravel, full droop and full compression and decided that holding the bottom of the shock tabs even with the bottom of the axle would give full range on the shocks, so marked them there. No need for relocation brackets .

Tack weld the perches in place and yank it all back out.

Finally, the obligatory axle comparison shot. Out with the Old, in with the New. ( Did i say I liked Blue Engine Enamel for the Brakes?)
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:33 AM   #23
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Thanks for a very nice detailed write up. Will be using this for reference in the near future for my 8.8
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Unread 09-14-2013, 11:48 AM   #24
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I also like blue brakes.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 05:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgb_m3 View Post
Thanks for a very nice detailed write up. Will be using this for reference in the near future for my 8.8
Thanks. Soup to nuts swap goin on here. Hope you find something useful in it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster93 View Post
I also like blue brakes.
That looks familiar. I Like your U bolt Flip.


My swap is completed and Road Tested already. Just takes so long to sort and upload the pics, not to mention the text.

The axle job is complete. This thread is a work in progress...More to come.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 05:53 PM   #26
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Shock length

Which Shocks are they? im about to finally swap the 8.8 in and was confused about the shocks.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 07:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Next up, the kind folks at RuffStuff sent along a Care package. Item # 88SS-31 Rear Axle Swap 31 Spline.

I had to grind these nubs off the two perches for a perfect fit.
I may be mistaken, but aren't the nubs there for a reason? Seems like they would provide just enough gap between the tube and spring plate to ensure full weld penetration.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 07:56 PM   #28
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Great write-up Im right in the middle of this project and this is vary helpful. I think my brake lines mat be on the right sides?
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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:28 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason280 View Post

I may be mistaken, but aren't the nubs there for a reason? Seems like they would provide just enough gap between the tube and spring plate to ensure full weld penetration.
Nope, they're there so the perch fits more than one application.

Grinding them off for a proper fit is the correct procedure.

Max
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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:52 PM   #30
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Thanks for the write up I will be looking at it in the near future to do my 8.8.
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