Well it rained Friday so I didn't take the frame to the sand blaster but I got impatient and bought some flapper grinding disk and stripped the frame. Attachment 617558
Finally I can start putting this thing together.
I haven't got alot done in the last couple of weeks. I finally got by brake line bending tool is so I made up some brake lines and got the rear axle bolted in. The brake lines don't look the most professional but they should work.
I took a day off from working on the Jeep for my other hobby, making beer. If everything goes okay I should have a cold one in 6 weeks, kind of a long wait I know.
As hard as the ball joints fought to stay in the axle the new ones were just as content to say off of it. After breaking my vise and bending the cheap ball joint tool I am going to rent one from Autozone or Orielly. I went ahead and bolt up the front axle.
Still waiting on some parts for the front axle so I figured I would take some pics of the bell housing adapter from Phoenix Adapters. It uses a adapter that bolts to the bell housing and another plate that bolts to the 3.3 flywheel and uses the jeep flywheel and clutch assembly. It seems like a lot of rotational mass but it seems to work.
I have been kicking around the idea to build a gas tank skid plate, the original was in decent shape but had some rust on the top of it. I broke down and decided to build a skid plate out of some left over 3/16" plate I had. I originally planned on cutting half way through the plate with cut off wheels and bending to get the shape I needed but after burning up 5 cut off wheels the plasma cutter came out and I cut the pieces out and welded the whole thing up. Did I Mention I love my plasma cutter?
This thing has to weigh as least 50 pounds.
I have finished a few things since my last post. I got the parts to rebuild the front axle and ran into one problem.. I upgraded to once piece axle shaft with larger u joints from an XJ. With a 90 degree grease zerk on the lower ball joint the u joint ear were hitting it.
The quick fix was to change to a straight fitting.
There is maybe a 1/16" clearance. Has anybody ran into this before? I might try to change the lower ball joint if I can find a shorter one.
I bolted up the clutch, install the pilot bearing and throw out bearing. I bolted up the transmission to the engine sitting on the skid.
Since I dont need the cps I made this cover plate to keep anything from falling in.
I know have a rolling chassis.
I also made up this fancy bracket to relocate the fuel filter to the rear of the engine.
I also replaced the braked on the 8.8. The parking brake shoes are a real pain in the *** to replace. I should have done it when the axle shafts were out.
Since I have a rolling chassis I decided to set the tub on it and start working on some of the plumbing. I spent the weekend working on every ones favorite... wiring. Mating the cj dash wasn't to bad. I wired in the cj head light switch but let the yj high/low switch on the column.
Moment of truth, no smoke no blown fuses!
I wanted to move the radio to counsel so I added a weather pack connector by the fuse block to make it removable with the rear harness.
I don't have the fancy terminal tools to remove the pins from the connector. I needed to pull a pin so I came up with this. A cotter pin worked like a charm.
I started wiring in the engine and ran out of wire. Maybe next weekend I will finish up the engine and do the head light relay mod.
I got some new gas tank straps from rockauto but they didn't come with any rubber on them. I have been looking for some and haven't really found any but I did run across a good idea on another forum. They used a piece of seat belt instead of rubber. I was at a truck salvage yard looking for some gauges and picked up a seat belt to use.
I was at the pick and pull looking for a new fuse block and ran across this. The mother of all fuse/relay panels.
The only problem.
I settled on a fuse box you of a Chrysler minivan, it was 7 relays and plenty of fuses for what I need. I will put up pictures later. I have a fuse box from a Cherokee but the plastic is brittle and the locking tabs kept breaking when I was trying to change pins.
I picked up some fitting for my oil pressure sending unit and oil line for the alternator. I needed a drain line for the alternator so I welded on a fitting next to the turbo drain and plumed it in.
I also mocked up the TJ flares and starting cutting some sheet metal to make them fit. I will get some more pics up soon.
scroll down a couple photo's and you will need to install a small plug instead of the zerk fitting. my greasable ball joints did the same thing- no clearance with ujoint and shafts so most ball joint kits come with one greasable zerk and a cap.
"Just an observation...with regard to the grease zerk plug on the lower ball joint, if there is enough room for it, then you have enough room for a flush grease zerk in its place. I dont know if you could get a needle adapter down to it though...maybe snake it through the u joint somehow or perhaps bend the needle adapter for the grease gun. "
I always install a straight grease fitting on upper ball joints and use a slotted adapter on the grease gun to lube it. It's pretty tight but it fits. The flush zerks are nice for lower ball joints and U-joints that lube through the cap.
I used two from junk yard cherokees, and you are right the palstic clips were a little brittle, drove me nuts.
I set up my fuse/relay blocks as one block being "essential stuff" ie, normal lights, engine, starter, guages, all that, then the other one just for extra stuff, fog lights, OBA, inverter, ect.
Wiring has been taking me stupid long on my YJ as I am determined to make my wiring look and function as a stock harness.
Jeep 1:Used to have a 93 YJ 2.5l- 3.5" Black Diamond, Chevy TBI 5.7l V8, SM 465 4 speed, 8.8 rear( 4.10, L/S), rhinoline, Mile Marker 9000, NP 231, Had to sell it due to college
Jeep 2: 89/91 YJ, 4BT Cummins, NV4500, NP 231, Old Man Emu 2.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift.....Runs and drives, but very much a project
Interned at Novak Conversions 2 summers ago