Engine swap nightmare - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
Bulldogbuggy
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Engine swap nightmare

Ok, my 91 YJ 2.5L spun a bearing and i was going to replace the crank and bearings until, I found a 2.5 that a friend was swapping out for the 4.0. I struggled for two days to get mine out and the new one in, now all is stuffed in and hooked up, got it running right when I dropped it in but then it started to sputter and now it won't start at all. Think I may have some vaccine lines hooked up wrong or something, I got good spark changed all the sensors and sending units over from my motor, even the fuel rail and injectors! But it just won't start! I do have one vacuums nipple on the throttle bod with no line connected thought it had one but can't for the life of me figure out what! Any suggestions? Or photos of the vacuum set up under throttle body. Mine has four vac nipples and one has a "T" the empty on is closest to the fire wall.

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post #2 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
Bulldogbuggy
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Also there are no codes when I turn the key three times just 13 & 55 nothing else! I am thinking vacuum lines but none of the Chilton diag. Show what I need!
Please help this is my only car(jeep)!
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post #3 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 10:27 AM
Que89YJ
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Bulldog, did you change out the flywheel and the ecu with the new 4.0L?
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post #4 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 10:41 AM
oldtime_ironman
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Que, I think he got the 2.5 from his buddy. Correct me if I'm wrong.

On my 1991 2.5, the "Tee" vacuum fitting: The back of the tee towards the firewall, plugs into the vacuum line for the heater controls running into the cab. The front of the tee plugs into the *small* CCV vacuum line which goes to the *front* of the valve cover.

If you need a pic of mine, let me know - its a nice day out and mine is all stock.
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post #5 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 10:45 AM
Andywear
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Edit: pics where no help

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #6 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 11:01 AM
nzpete
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Geez, it could be anything, but I'm wondering if there is a fuel issue.
Check the basics, fuel, air, spark. I'd almost bet that there is spark because it started before, but you might have had enough fuel to get it going until it ran out. Check fuses, too.

To me, RC is kind of the Harbor Freight of springs. Sometimes you get a good deal and sometimes you don't.
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post #7 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
Bulldogbuggy
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Shouldn't there be pressure on the fuel rail after I try to start it! When I take the cap of the fuel rail pressure port and depress the pin there is no release of air or gas! Can't tell is the fuel pump is kicking on or not! Bit I didn't replace pump it was fine! My 2.5 was running just fine except for the hard knock of the connecting rod banging on the crank and the new motor was running great I was there when it was pulled in his garage and pulled out of his 92 YJ! And the vacuume I am speaking of is directly bellow the throttle body four nipples and one is empty! One nearest the fire wall! iPhone won't let me put photos up!!! Darn!
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post #8 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 11:49 AM
Que89YJ
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Damn I needed to read that better. Yes there should be pressure at the rail. In the PDC there is a fuel pump relay and fuse. I cant remember the fuse but do a quick check of all of them. Jumper the fuel pump relay socket with a paper clip or a short piece of wire from pins 30 to 87. That should turn on the fuel pump. Do you have a meter?
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post #9 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 12:00 PM
tdewit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogbuggy View Post
Shouldn't there be pressure on the fuel rail after I try to start it! When I take the cap of the fuel rail pressure port and depress the pin there is no release of air or gas! Can't tell is the fuel pump is kicking on or not! Bit I didn't replace pump it was fine! My 2.5 was running just fine except for the hard knock of the connecting rod banging on the crank and the new motor was running great I was there when it was pulled in his garage and pulled out of his 92 YJ! And the vacuume I am speaking of is directly bellow the throttle body four nipples and one is empty! One nearest the fire wall! iPhone won't let me put photos up!!! Darn!
Fuel pump is clearly heard. Turn the ignition to on, but don't crank. You will hear it whirring in the back.
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post #10 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
Bulldogbuggy
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Ok checked to see if fuel pump was coming on and I heard nothing at the tank, not sure what you mean by moping the relay it is a closed system no pins to jump? Pulled the fuel lines off under driver seat and turned switch o see if it was junk in the line from when I disco for engine swap but nothing came out! No signal to pump now I need to see if it us relay or pump can u explain jumping relay to me!
Yes I have volt/ohm meter. So o guess it not vacume huh!
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post #11 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 01:11 PM
tdewit
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From the FSM

Fuel Pump Relay
1) Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove Powertrain
Control Module (PCM) harness connector. Reconnect battery cable. Turn
ignition on. Check for voltage at Dark Blue/Yellow wire on Cherokee
and Wrangler or Pink wire on Grand Cherokee in PCM harness connector.
If voltage is not present, go to step 4). If voltage is present,
ground the wire. Fuel pump should work.
2) If fuel pump does not work, check if relay clicks. If
relay does not click, go to step 5). If relay clicks, ensure voltage
is present at relay terminals No. 30 (battery) and 87 (fuel pump), and
at fuel pump. See Fig. 2.
3) If fuel pump still does not work, check ballast resistor
(Cherokee only) and fuel pump ground. If ballast resistor and ground
are okay, replace fuel pump.
4) If no voltage is present, ensure wire has continuity to
fuel pump relay terminal No. 85. Ensure voltage (from ignition switch)
is present at relay terminal No. 86. See Fig. 2.
5) If all circuits are okay or fuel pump relay did not click
in step 2), check resistance between relay terminals No. 86 and 85.
See Fig. 2. Resistance should be 70-80 ohms. If resistance is not 70-
80 ohms, replace relay.
6) Disconnect negative battery terminal. Reconnect PCM
harness connector. Connect battery cable. Check fuel pump operation.
If fuel pump does not operate, see G - 2.5L & 4.0L TESTS W/CODES
article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section and check PCM.
Attached Thumbnails
relay.jpg  
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post #12 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 01:16 PM
Que89YJ
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You are actually jumpering the pins in the socket the relay plugs into. The socket looks like this:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl295a-lib.htm

Start by checking power at pin 30. You should have voltage there. If you dont then check your fuses. (F1 I think) in the pdc. If you do then put a short wire or paper clip inside the socket from 30 to 87 as in the diagram. Now you should hear the fuel pump running. If not measures voltage on the fuel pump connector near the tank. If you have power there then its a bad pump. If you dont have power then the harness is open.
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post #13 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 01:17 PM
Que89YJ
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Tdewit, you beat me to it! Nice post!
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post #14 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 01:23 PM
tdewit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Tdewit, you beat me to it! Nice post!




but thank you! You have no idea just how much the JF has helped me. This is a great place to be, a place where you actually want to help peeps.
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post #15 of 24 Old 08-16-2011, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
Bulldogbuggy
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Wow! Gonna have to sit down to read this one! Thanks guys! JF rocks! Joining thus forum was the smartest thing I have done other than getting the jeep! Thank you thank you thank you! I will let you k ow how things turn out!
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