Engine has been giving me hell for 2 months or so. But I did notice last night that my battery gauge thing is bouncing from 10v to 15v irregularly.. When its at 10v the engine definitely runs rougher like the ignition is losing power. Runs better at 15v (still run like crap though, lots of backfire, misfires, and no throttle response or power.) So, what could be causing the electrical issue? Dying alternator? something shorting out somewhere?
This might help.....http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/.
The 4.2 carbed engine is a tricky breast to tame. I spent many hrs and $$ getting the carb to run very well. Once I had the cash I installed the Howell TBI kit and it runs great and passes inspection with emissions as clean as a new car.
As for the volt gauge mine never reads correct voltage and I've been unable to get it to work properly. I have a Powermaster alt and Red Top battery so voltage is a non issue.
I also run the Howell and it's a way better option than the stock carb, but my voltmeter also doesn't ever work right. I'd suggest testing the output with a multimeter and see if you actually have fluctuations, if so replace the alternator and go from there.
Hi PHX, sounds like bad electrical connections between the battery and everything else. Check the battery terminals and clamps, and all other connections from the battery cables to the starter, starter relay and block ground. Make sure everything is clean, bright and tight. Check your block to ground strap as well, a flat woven cable on the driver's side rear valve cover to a stud on the firewall. Use a little WD40 on all connections or di-electric grease if you have it.
I see you're running the MC2100 and it's nuttered, so after the above see if things are better. Bad news is sometimes when voltage is fluctuating it's an old battery that's shorting out internally, but do the easy and free things first before throwing money at parts.
guess Its time to check all my connections, test everything and hit it with WD40 like suggested.
The battery is actually a brand new Yellow top, the Alternator is stock, original at that (146k miles over 20 years) So I guess I might end up dropping a powermaster on it.
I would love to howell it, but would it be cheaper/easier to just pull injection off a 4.0? Regardless of which, i'll have to tame my 4.2 with MC2100.
Could the bad throttle response be my 33's with my 3.55 gearing? Like I mean the throttle response is beyond horrible, especially when the gauge fluctuates to 10v
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