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Unread 02-21-2014, 04:47 PM   #1
dennisonwj
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ECM Removal???

I have a 1988 Wrangler Laredo with the 4.2L and an AX-15 manual transmission. It has the original distributor, factory air conditioning (I KNOW, I did not order it), etc. It also has a Weber 34 DGEC carburator, the Carter is GONE.

I would like to remove the damned ECM and make this Jeep what it should ALWAYS be, mechanical. I was reading that a Nutter Bypass will help me achieve this goal. I live in the National Fascist State of Maryland, but the verhicle is Historically registered and emissions is NOT HAPPENING.

Now the questions fellow Jeepsters.

1) If I do a Nutter Bypass with the above setup, can I REMOVE the ECM and all the wires that are attached to it. Or does it do other things that would require it to be still installed? The Weber does have an electric choke, but I think the ECM is out of that equation. I ask this because it is a nightmare under my dash and it will take real commitment to take apart the dash to unmount it and remove it.

2) After a Nutter, what vacuum tubes DO I NEED TO KEEP, I want to remove and plug all unneeded vacuum hoses, it is a mess in there.

3) After Nutter, I want to also remove the CTO and plug the hole in the block. Has anyone done this, and what do you use for the plug?

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Unread 02-21-2014, 04:53 PM   #2
dancytron
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After you do the Nutter, you can remove the ECM, but it is hard to get to (have to take the dash out). It is much easier to reach underneath with a cable cutter or strong scissors, cut the bundle of wires, and then push them through the firewall. Then you can follow the wires and remove them.

The link tells you what fed into the computer and what was controlled by the computer. http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/control.htm I think the best thing to do is find the computer related items and remove them one by one, along with their wiring and vacuum hose, as opposed to ripping everything out and rebuilding it. Then replace the vacuum hose that is left unless it looks fairly new so you don't have to screw with it anymore.

The CTO controls the EGR valve and the vapor canister. These things both still work without the computer, and imho you ought to keep them. All you will accomplish by removing them is making it pollute more. There is no performance gain by removing them.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 05:07 PM   #3
jbolty
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Instead of the nutter, replace the distributor with a GM HEI. One wire, plus the tach signal. Then you can really clean up the wires under the hood.



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Unread 02-21-2014, 05:36 PM   #4
YJ4LIFE
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removing the computer is not that complicated. I did the nutter and disconnected the computer wiring harness to check that the still jeep ran without it before i did any major wiring removal and simplification. be careful of your choke wire. I burned out my ignition fuseable link when it grounded to the valve cover after nutter.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 05:39 PM   #5
jay-h
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Don't know why you'd bother, it's out of the circuit and not doing anything, but you can cut the wires and remove it.

One caution, after I did a Howell conversion and removed mine, the system started periodically shorting out and blowing a fusible link shortly after the engine started. Turns out that there is a second oil pressure sender (on off only) that the ECM uses to determine if the engine is running. the stray wire shorted out as soon as the oil pressure came up. Pulled the wires off that sender, taped them up, and all was well.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 06:07 PM   #6
bpounds
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If you want to get the ECM box out of there, I wouldn't pull the dash. You can pull the heater box and easily get to it. Here is a pic of it.


And here is the heater box coming out.


Only reason I can think of to actually take it out, would be to either repair it, or replace it with something else, like the Howell ECM for example.

Air conditioning complicates this a bunch.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 06:24 PM   #7
roadyrob
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you don't need to pull the whole dash, just the glove box. even with air you can get to the 4 grab bar bolts. the two on the passenger side are easy, then just remove the radio to get to the others. just had mine out today to replace the windshield hinge.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 06:49 PM   #8
dennisonwj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
If you want to get the ECM box out of there, I wouldn't pull the dash. You can pull the heater box and easily get to it. Here is a pic of it.


And here is the heater box coming out.


Only reason I can think of to actually take it out, would be to either repair it, or replace it with something else, like the Howell iECM for example.

Air conditioning complicates this a bunch.


I am doing this because I WANT the jeep mechanical I hate computers in cars. so unnecessary. the nutter should get me there. Do I have to replace the stock distributor?
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Unread 02-21-2014, 06:52 PM   #9
dennisonwj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadyrob View Post
you don't need to pull the whole dash, just the glove box. even with air you can get to the 4 grab bar bolts. the two on the passenger side are easy, then just remove the radio to get to the others. just had mine out today to replace the windshield hinge.
So the ECm is above the radio to the left of the glove box?
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Unread 02-21-2014, 06:58 PM   #10
jay-h
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennisonwj View Post
I am doing this because I WANT the jeep mechanical I hate computers in cars. so unnecessary. the nutter should get me there. Do I have to replace the stock distributor?
I would consider it. The advance curve for the ECM distributor is based on the ECM alterning the timing. Outfits like DUI make distributors specifically calibrated for non ECM systems.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 07:21 PM   #11
YJ4LIFE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennisonwj View Post
I am doing this because I WANT the jeep mechanical I hate computers in cars. so unnecessary. the nutter should get me there. Do I have to replace the stock distributor?
you don't have to. its a matter of preferance. I used msd blaster 3 coil, big ford cap, cap adapter, and 4.0L FI MSD wires. (did way before nutter)
msd-wires-small.jpg

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Unread 02-21-2014, 08:09 PM   #12
dennisonwj
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Also, I kwno very little about HEI systems. Can someone please point me to where I can buy one of these HEI distributors and maybe an article or post on how to set it up.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 08:37 PM   #13
dennisonwj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Instead of the nutter, replace the distributor with a GM HEI. One wire, plus the tach signal. Then you can really clean up the wires under the hood.



That looks like a CRT Performance HEI distributor. Is that correct?
If yes, how do you like it?
Does it have hardened gears that can tear up your crank shaft gears?
What model is it?
Finally, what wires and vacuum hoses can you remove and how did you know which ones?
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Unread 02-21-2014, 09:22 PM   #14
jbolty
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It is a CRT. Works great, really woke up the engine.

No problems after about 5 years. I have not personally ever talked to anyone who ever had an issue with hardened gears. Other than guys claiming they know a guy whose friend had a bad experience I think it's a non issue.

Pretty much all the wires can go away and 90% of the hoses.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 03:31 AM   #15
roadyrob
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X2 on the CRT distributor. if you want to get rid of the problematic emissions system and all the vacuum hoses and wires its the best way to go.
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