E-fan Thermal Switch - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 38 Old 03-22-2012, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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E-fan Thermal Switch

I know this topic has been covered before but upon my searching its been bits and pieces from threads on temperature probes and sensors. I have a Taurus fan installed and I'm using a Hayden adjustable thermostat with a temp probe in the radiator. It works OK but it rattle around after a time. I've thought about using JB weld and other methods to hold it but I want a more permanent solution that keeps the probe separate from the radiator in case I need to remove it.

Here's what I've come up with. I plan on using the plug in the block I saw in my Haynes manual and then on the block. I've found in my research that it's 3/8" -NPT thread and I found a thermal switch from Summit that turns on at 195* and turns off at 185*.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-30110/

Does anyone see a problem with this?

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post #2 of 38 Old 03-22-2012, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I plan on running the wires to the O2 sensor wiring and up to the top of the motor and over to the relay. Here is a pic from Summit.
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post #3 of 38 Old 03-22-2012, 09:11 PM
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Yes that will work.
The only problems are, one of the plugs in the block is right behind the motor mount and the other one is right behind one of the exhaust manifold tubes.
If you can get them out and the sensor back in it will work.
This is another option. http://www.steigerperformance.com/
Not sure if you have seen this thread or not.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...cheap-1325896/

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post #4 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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I think I can get the plug out near the engine mount. It will take contorting but I think I can do it. I followed that thread you referenced and there's a lot of great info but to me this is a simpler solution that's utilizing the ports on the engine block. I could put a in hose tap but if I can just swap out that plug with the switch, run two wires to it then I'll be in good shape. That's sounds so much easier in writing. Just wait till I put it into action. I may have wished I would done it with a hose tap.

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post #5 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 05:23 AM
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Have you looked into running a Line switch, they run about 40 bucks. check out derale's line of products. I put one on my dads mustang after his sensor fell out in traffic and haven't had any issues since then.
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post #6 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 06:26 AM
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Your temp is too low. I 'm thinking it will affect performance on your engine. The motor is designed to run warmer than 195. Also, a single switch will not control both fan speeds. See the link in post 3 and read thru that. I know that you probably have been ok with a controller using low speed only, but suggest if you are getting rid of your hayden controller you look into doing something that will give you both fan speeds automatically. I installed mine, including the fan for less than $75. For less than $30 you could wire up the dual fan controller and switches and have both high and low speeds at the correct temps.
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post #7 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kphimself View Post
Have you looked into running a Line switch, they run about 40 bucks. check out derale's line of products. I put one on my dads mustang after his sensor fell out in traffic and haven't had any issues since then.
I'm not sure what a line switch is. The switch I linked to is from Summit and it's $40 as well. I live near one so shipping is not a factor.

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post #8 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 07:08 AM
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Read through TSJeepers link. There is a bunch of good info there and I don't want to rehash it. There are reasons for the location of the sensor, heat range, etc. In fact it would be a good thread to build on with what you want to do. I am using the Hayden and I will just end up cutting the probe and attaching a sensor to it when I get a chance.
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post #9 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berniebikes View Post
Your temp is too low. I 'm thinking it will affect performance on your engine. The motor is designed to run warmer than 195. Also, a single switch will not control both fan speeds. See the link in post 3 and read thru that. I know that you probably have been ok with a controller using low speed only, but suggest if you are getting rid of your hayden controller you look into doing something that will give you both fan speeds automatically. I installed mine, including the fan for less than $75. For less than $30 you could wire up the dual fan controller and switches and have both high and low speeds at the correct temps.
That's something I was wondering about as well. I would rather have the fan cut on between 200-210 and off around 190. I have an 85 amp continuous duty relay on the way for the high speed as we speak. I plan on wiring it in to a switch unless I go down the Volvo dual temp relay path. I initially intended to do that and even picked up the relays but the wires and connectors for them were junk so I just scrapped the idea. This was before the thread TSEJEEPERS posted was created but I had already done a little research on the links within that thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Read through TSJeepers link. There is a bunch of good info there and I don't want to rehash it. There are reasons for the location of the sensor, heat range, etc. In fact it would be a good thread to build on with what you want to do. I am using the Hayden and I will just end up cutting the probe and attaching a sensor to it when I get a chance.
I've been through it (not with a fine toothed comb though) and it's great info. I may look at finding and in hose tap or maybe fab one out of exhaust pipe and use a spindle nut. All possibilities. The main reason I want to go through with my plan is to find another way that may be simpler. My main concerns are the temp switch location and the temp range it cuts on and off.

I'll go through that thread again.

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post #10 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 08:19 AM
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Go into the thermostat housing and tap it. Try using your Hayden like I suggested. It is adjustable. The question is if the sensor range is close to the probe on the Hayden. If you are into it cut the sensor on the hayden and read the resistances on both.
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post #11 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Go into the thermostat housing and tap it. Try using your Hayden like I suggested. It is adjustable. The question is if the sensor range is close to the probe on the Hayden. If you are into it cut the sensor on the hayden and read the resistances on both.
I'm OK with drilling and tapping the t-stat housing. So you're suggesting I cut the probe off the Hayden, measure the resistance on that then measure the resistance on the sensor I plan on purchasing?

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post #12 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I can easily drill and tap the thermostat housing on the flat spot. Heck I can forget the side of the block.


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post #13 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 09:12 AM
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I went through all this and finally just went with the radiator probe and adjustable controller. All the on/off switches I could find only claimed to be accurate to about +- 10 degrees. So on at 200 and off at 190 could just as easily be on at 210 and off at 180.

The main issue with any sender is to make sure it's fully touching the water. I've seen a few writeups using tees in the hoses but those tend to create an air pocket or an eddy and give false readings. Threading it into the water jacket or thermostat housing avoids that problem, but still they are not all the accurate. It might not matter if it's off a few degrees, since most cars have that style, but personally I like to have more control.

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post #14 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 09:21 AM
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Yes. If the resistance is even remotely close you can use the Hayden setup It is adjustable to make up for resistance differences with harnesss length and sensor resistance differences. Everyone is going to the high current relay and it isn't necessay unless you are turning on the high speed fan by itself.
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post #15 of 38 Old 03-23-2012, 09:46 AM
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Maybe I got lucky, but my 2 speed switch comes on at 201.2, it's rated for 203 degrees. High speed is 216 but I have never gotten the engine that hot. It switches off at 194, rated at 195, which is about as close as you can get.
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