dual battery and high amp alt write-up
my first write-up, so, as I was writting it, I of course noticed I didn't take all the pictures I should have. But here it goes anyways:
I started by gathering all the components I needed:
2 yellow tops
4 top post to stud connectors
assorted 1/0,4,8,12 gage ring eyes
assorted wires of above sizes (nothing was over 3 feet, so try to get scraps from a stereo or welding shop to save $
6' peice of 1x1x1/8 angle iron
Junk yard of parts store alternator
* I used a dodge 136 amp (tested @ 152) from advanced auto because I am externally regulated*
You will need the following tools:
5/16,1/2,9/16,5/8 wrenches & sockets
something to cut metal with (chop saw or other)
drill & bits
wiring tools, a large crimper for the big wires is nice to have
Start by removing the battery and tieing the leads out of the way
remove the 8 bolts holding the battery tray in place and remove
measure your batteries for the new tray, mine was 10x14, so I cut 3 - 10" peices of angle and 2 - 14" out of the 6' stick. You can do 45s or like I like to do is cut a square out of one side of each joint. weldit together so it looks like a digital 8. there is a fan motor under the batteries, so I placed a 1/4" spacer on top of it and placed the cage in the jeep to figure out the mounting. I wanted it to look stock, so I plan on using as much of the original mount as possible. I had to add a piece of scrap metal to the center bar of the cage to reach over to were the factory brace under the battery is. notice that the firewall is not flat here. I used the 1x1 angle and cut it down to get the 2 outboard bolts, and used a whole 1x1 to catch the inner bolt, drilled the holes and bolted to the firewall, line everthing up and tack it together.
Next, cut off the diagonal supports from the factory tray and the mount for the fuse block. Hold the fuse block plate under your new mount in the jeep where it needs to be, mark it for cutting, then bolt it in and tack it in place as well. The inboard diagonal wouldn't fit in the stock location, so I ran it down to the fenderwell instead. position it and weld it in place and mark the fender for drilling. remove everything and weld it up. it should look like this:
Sold) 94 YJ, 4.0L 5 sp manual, Hard top, 33/12.50s, 4.10 ring&pinions, Polished D30 w/Aussie front, 8.8 rear w/ LS, 2.5" RC, 2" BL, 5/8" booms, TJ flares, SYE, custom F/R bumpers and rock sliders, 8k winch, dual optimas, HO alt.
2) (Sold) 99 TJ, mustang 5.0 GT 40, AX15/231J, trektop, 37x12.50r17 cooper STT, superlift 6" long arm, D30/44 w/ ARBs & yukons, customized warn bumpers, custom sliders, 12K winch w/ synthetic rope, custom paint
3) 2007 JKU being built now
Last edited by texas_yj; 10-29-2009 at 10:05 PM.