my first write-up, so, as I was writting it, I of course noticed I didn't take all the pictures I should have. But here it goes anyways:
I started by gathering all the components I needed:
2 yellow tops
4 top post to stud connectors
assorted 1/0,4,8,12 gage ring eyes
assorted wires of above sizes (nothing was over 3 feet, so try to get scraps from a stereo or welding shop to save $
6' peice of 1x1x1/8 angle iron
Junk yard of parts store alternator
* I used a dodge 136 amp (tested @ 152) from advanced auto because I am externally regulated*
You will need the following tools:
5/16,1/2,9/16,5/8 wrenches & sockets
something to cut metal with (chop saw or other)
drill & bits
wiring tools, a large crimper for the big wires is nice to have
Start by removing the battery and tieing the leads out of the way
remove the 8 bolts holding the battery tray in place and remove
measure your batteries for the new tray, mine was 10x14, so I cut 3 - 10" peices of angle and 2 - 14" out of the 6' stick. You can do 45s or like I like to do is cut a square out of one side of each joint. weldit together so it looks like a digital 8. there is a fan motor under the batteries, so I placed a 1/4" spacer on top of it and placed the cage in the jeep to figure out the mounting. I wanted it to look stock, so I plan on using as much of the original mount as possible. I had to add a piece of scrap metal to the center bar of the cage to reach over to were the factory brace under the battery is. notice that the firewall is not flat here. I used the 1x1 angle and cut it down to get the 2 outboard bolts, and used a whole 1x1 to catch the inner bolt, drilled the holes and bolted to the firewall, line everthing up and tack it together.
Next, cut off the diagonal supports from the factory tray and the mount for the fuse block. Hold the fuse block plate under your new mount in the jeep where it needs to be, mark it for cutting, then bolt it in and tack it in place as well. The inboard diagonal wouldn't fit in the stock location, so I ran it down to the fenderwell instead. position it and weld it in place and mark the fender for drilling. remove everything and weld it up. it should look like this:
I reused the original battery hold downs, so place the batteries in the tray and mark where you need to drill for the j bolts to go through (the center bar worked for me) paint it all up
and install everything. The unused diagonal bolt on the firewall is to become my new grounding point for the larger wires we need to run, so I cleaned it up real good first
I had to grind the little tabs off of the handle shaped hold down, and found a piece to tightly hold the batteries down. I would rather have used steel and made a better hold down, but I had no more small stuff, but this works really well, some felt to keep it from chaffing the battery tops and it time to wire:
I won't get into each individual wire here, but you will need at least 4 gage for the alt and battery to battery connectors. You will also have to upgrade the ground from the batteries to the chassis, and from the motor to the chassis. You will also need to add a fuse in the new alt line. I used a 150amp waffer fuse and holder. 4g is right in the middle of the wire charts for 3 ft and 150 amps, but some will say that you must use 1 gage or bigger. the fuse holder I used has two fuse possitions, the empty one is for the stereo system, next project. I used 1/0 gage to supply the fuse holder and the new grounding bolt, as they can potentally see over 200 amps. I wired my winch straight to the inboard battery using the side posts it had. I cut the factory top post connectors off all the factory lines and crimped on ring eyes with my special crimper from hell, and loomed and shrink wrapped everything. make sure that you wire the batteries + to + and - to - (parallel) so that it stays 12 volts, if you series it, you will get a 24v system and fry everything!!! As most here will attest, no isolators are needed, your just going for more storage capacity here
remove the alternator, for those that don't now, the belt tensioner is on the power steering pump, 1/2" bolts, loosen the two an the back and front top and bottom, and loosen the adjuster on the bottom side till you have slack in the belt. now you can remove the 9/16" bolts top and bottom of the alt, the I forget the tiny bolt sizes holding the regulator wires but the 12g wire coming out of the box are 5/16". remove alt.
you will need to transfer the shield boot from old to new as they point different directions, some alts have a different sized pully, if its larger than yours, swap it for more power at lower rpms, mine was the same diameter, but 7 grove instead of 6, I chose to leave it, the belt lines up with the extra groove exposed to the front, no big deal, but if your anal retentive, by all means, swap them. Install the alt and wire in the controller box, and now we will add the upgraded wires. I ran the new gound to the bolt under the coilnote,: this bolt caused my tach to not read, so I had to move it to a different bolt on the block, and of course to the alt itself, loomed and zip tied.
tighten up the belt and you should be good to go now, crank it up and check you voltage. I can now run my off road lights, headlights on high, fan on full, and stereo blasting without droping below 13 volts.
thanx, as I reread it, I noticed my typing ****s, people will get the point though
edit: looks good jeepster, I like the OBA I was going to use the 160 amp, but didn't what to take the time to figure out and find the parts needed to make the wiring work, this is the biggest direct bolt in I could find.
this one was from advanced, I didn't want to risk a JY alt. its is for a late 90s jeep GC, is rated for 136 but the test sheet that came with it put it close to 150 amps, it was a bolt on. Note that where I put my upgraded ground cause my tach to not work, I had to move it to another bolt on the engine. and it was like $140
sjwrangler, I have a large hammer crimping tool for those large ringeyes. I got the rings from a local stereo shop as I was out of 4g, got hundreds of 8s and 10s left from my old stereo shop days. it was an inside deal, but he only sharged me about cost - 50 cents each. the new lead from the alt goes to the new waffer fuse holder, it was in the write-up, but I guess it was one of the pictures I didn;t put in there. I'm glade to see people looking this up and using it
good stuff I was looking for something like this Thanks
1988 Jeep Wrangler, home made posi lock, team rush upgrade, motorcraft 2100 carb, warn m8000 winch, np231c front yoke, rc 2.5" lift, 1" lift shackles
Even my motorcycle has a square headlight(1984 Honda Saber)!!!
thanks rusty: to address some questions I'm getting for everyones knowledge base:
I upped the ground to both the block (for starter/alt/electronics) and to the chassis (stereo/lights/ect). I ran a new wire from the new alt to the new fuse block (4g) the factory wire has whats called a fusable link in it, and would fry as soon as it sees any decent amprage, so one way around this is to just add another line to the system to take the load, you can remove the factory one, but I don't see the point. the new wire must go through a fuse (150a waffer fuse in mine case) to protect the system in the case of a dead short, or worse. in order to have a complete circuit, electricity basicaly flow in a circle (DC, direct current, ie one way), like from the battery to the switch to the light to the chassis ground then back to the battery so your ground has to be big enough to handle all the current that the altrnator and the battery can put out. The wire size is like a tube for electricty, if your trying to suck througha really small straw, you can only get so much through it per second, if you get a bigger straw, its easier to suck through and you get more out of it, thats why when your wire is too small, it gets hot. in order for all the current the HO alternator can provide to complete it curcuit, it cannot be choked by a small ground. the alt. uses the engine block as its ground, so you need to upgrade the ground from the block to the battery and the battery to the chassis in order to see the max output of the HO alt.