Only bled the back, again
was able to stop wheels on stands for a few seconds, then they would start again
Hoses are braided SS and 2 years old
Hard lines are smooth
brake light works but is not on
Guess its off to the junkyard for disc parts.
__________________ KING OF THE DRIVEWAY
YJ '89 4.2 UNDER constant CONSTRUCTION
i went through this on my cherokee after i replaced everything, including the master cylinder. it turned out to be the rod from the booster to the master was not adjusted properly so not enough pressure was going to the cylinders to stop the wheels. brakes felt good and everything was replaced but no stopping on stands. my neighbor, a n old old retired mechanic, came over and listened to everything pushed the peddle with his hand and told me to adjust the rod. after that, everything worked perfectly. there is an adjustment nut on the end of the rod to adjust for new MCs since htey don;t always fit exactly the same.
I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
Cylinder and rest of internals look great, no rust.
Front brakes are correct and were not touched. Only swapped rear. (but will check when home)
Brakes were adjusted after bleeding.
Thanks guys, keep this thinkpot stirring
You should mechanically adjust brakes before bleeding. Or you could push the wheel cylinder pistons right out of the wheel cylinder bodies since there is no upper brake contact because the brake adjuster allows the brakes to be completely collapsed.
Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
If what doesn't kill you, makes you stronger, I should be able to bench press a Grand Cherokee by now!
A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.