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Unread 04-14-2011, 09:27 AM   #1
ayerightaye
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Drum brake dissapointment. Help

put another d35 under my heap
with
3k miles on brakes
9" drums
all springs look good
plenty of pad,
drums and look great

bled, re-bled, bled again, no bubbles
no leaks
still up on stands and can not stop wheels!
adjusted as usual
MC changed last year.

Ideas and techniques please!

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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:35 AM   #2
Provojeep
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Have you checked to be sure your wheel cylinders are not frozen? If they got water in them they could be rusted. That would be my best guess if you can't stop the wheels with it on stands.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:40 AM   #3
pasinbuy
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Alright, maybe a crazy question but with this problem it almost always turns out to be the front calipers.

Look at your front calipers bleed fittings. Is the bleed fitting on to of the caliper or on the bottom of the front calipers? Look at both.

If one or both is on the bottom then you have to turn it around off of the rotor to bring the bleeder to the top. Then rebleed your system.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 11:09 AM   #4
MJMPC
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Did you adjust the rear brales before bleeding?
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Unread 04-14-2011, 12:52 PM   #5
ayerightaye
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Cylinder and rest of internals look great, no rust.

Front brakes are correct and were not touched. Only swapped rear. (but will check when home)

Brakes were adjusted after bleeding.

Thanks guys, keep this thinkpot stirring
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Unread 04-14-2011, 05:18 PM   #6
skreed
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Collapsed rubber brake hose in rear? You will not see it, it will be the inner lining.

Kink or obstruction in metal line?

You sure everything is together correct?
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Unread 04-14-2011, 06:46 PM   #7
MJMPC
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Did you bleed all 4 corners?
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Unread 04-14-2011, 07:09 PM   #8
Nibbley15
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Does your "brake" light work, the one in the dash, if so is it on? This is a far stretch from the other posts, but is it possibly the proportioning valve?
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Unread 04-15-2011, 07:31 AM   #9
ayerightaye
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Only bled the back, again
calipers strong
was able to stop wheels on stands for a few seconds, then they would start again
Hoses are braided SS and 2 years old
Hard lines are smooth
brake light works but is not on

Guess its off to the junkyard for disc parts.
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Unread 04-15-2011, 09:22 AM   #10
4.7stroker
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Do you have a firm pedal or is it spongy?

Dwayne
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Unread 04-15-2011, 10:59 AM   #11
kahanabob
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if you are getting a good stream when bleeding the rear then all seems well up to that point leads to the wheel cylinders???
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Unread 04-15-2011, 12:00 PM   #12
superj
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i went through this on my cherokee after i replaced everything, including the master cylinder. it turned out to be the rod from the booster to the master was not adjusted properly so not enough pressure was going to the cylinders to stop the wheels. brakes felt good and everything was replaced but no stopping on stands. my neighbor, a n old old retired mechanic, came over and listened to everything pushed the peddle with his hand and told me to adjust the rod. after that, everything worked perfectly. there is an adjustment nut on the end of the rod to adjust for new MCs since htey don;t always fit exactly the same.
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Unread 04-15-2011, 02:32 PM   #13
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayerightaye View Post
Cylinder and rest of internals look great, no rust.

Front brakes are correct and were not touched. Only swapped rear. (but will check when home)

Brakes were adjusted after bleeding.

Thanks guys, keep this thinkpot stirring
You should mechanically adjust brakes before bleeding. Or you could push the wheel cylinder pistons right out of the wheel cylinder bodies since there is no upper brake contact because the brake adjuster allows the brakes to be completely collapsed.
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Unread 04-15-2011, 02:43 PM   #14
LordEnki
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Unfortunately, the adjuster does not keep the pistons in the wheel cylinders. The shoes do. Don't press the brakes with the drum off. Wheel cylinders are on top and adjuster is on bottom.
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Unread 04-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #15
dodger889
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Is this with new drums and shoes?
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