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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:13 PM   #1
odss91b
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This going to be a how to write up for a 1994 2.5L yj. To begin with I am not a mechanic. And I don't play one on TV. But yesterday when I got the yj I had 3/4 tank of gas I drove 3 miles to work. When I got there I realized I had a gas leak because it was dripping pretty fast. When I left I got almost home again only 3 miles away and ran out of gas. I knew I was going to have do something about it. I searched online and couldn't find a complete write up so I decided to do one. Keep in mind I am not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. I have never tackled this kind of project but if I'm shown how to do something I can do it. Unfortunately there was no one to show what to do. If I did something wrong or you have an easier way to do this please post it up.

So here we go: Step one disconnect the negative battery cable, open the gas cap, and depressurize your fuel system. I have the TBI so it was as simple as finding the the fuel rail and looking for the test valve. Press it and let it depressurize the system.

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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:28 PM   #2
zte87
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It kinda funny I had the same problem on my way home from work today!
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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:32 PM   #3
odss91b
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The pressure port is the little threaded thing on this picture. Also it would be very beneficial if you have the plastic covers removed that hide the fuel filer neck. Here
image-3721529573.jpg

image-2280842115.jpg

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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:33 PM   #4
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Zte it was not a happy moment but if this helps great.
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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:35 PM   #5
zte87
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Yeah I know it sucks watching your fuel gauge plunge with out getting to use the fuel!
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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:50 PM   #6
odss91b
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Step two: well first let me say thank you to the union worker at the jeep plant in Toledo who in 1994 laughed his/ her butt off as the were assembling the 1994 yj I now own! If your fuel filler neck has not been touched yet you are in for a treat when you tackle this part.
Before you begin here remove the torx bits that hold the license plate and the fuel fill neck in place I think it was a 15 torx bit. That is the first picture.
You can tell that they assembled the fuel system with the tub off. All of my clamps were faced in directions that you could not get anything on them to take them off. That is the next picture. My neighbor today told me you can spin those clamps even while they are on the filler and vent lines. Yes you can but it hurts soft teacher hands like mine. If you have or your PO has dropped the tank before your clamps should be easy to get to relatively speaking of course. Now you will have to remove the filler and vent lines from the tank in order to drop the tank. If you had previously done the 20 gallon tank mod just remove the clamps at the tank after you get the clamps spun around so you can get to them. I ended up having to disconnect the lines at the neck and at the tank.
To get the ones on the tank I literally had to grab the hose and spin the hose (after I disconnected from the neck) on the tank.
image-221761577.jpg

image-2280005074.jpg

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Unread 07-15-2015, 09:55 PM   #7
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More pics of the filler and vent lines. You can see the joy it was.
image-672242728.jpg

image-2515693311.jpg

image-3249934846.jpg

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Unread 07-15-2015, 10:04 PM   #8
odss91b
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Step 3: this part wasn't that bad after fighting with the filler and vent lines. Next move to the front of the tank (meaning toward the engine bay) on the drivers side you will see some steel lines with rubber hoses attached to them. You will have to disconnect all 3. 2 of them will have clamps and one will not.
The 2 with the clamps will still have gas in them so be careful taking them loose. Again he clamps were turned wrong so I had to spin them on the line to gain access to them. I guess I could have used side cutters and cut off the clamps but I like a challenge that's why I teach.
After you disconnect the rubber lines move back a little bit and you will see an electrical connector this is for your fuel pump, disconnect it. At this point you should be ready to drop your tank.
image-3326129641.jpg

image-748585751.jpg

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Unread 07-15-2015, 10:19 PM   #9
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Step 4: I'll admit I do not know if this step is important or not. I read somewhere someone complaining about the last exhaust hanger being in the way when dropping the tank, so I decided to remove the hanger ( not from the frame) from the exhaust pipe. Doing this did make it easier (probably peace of mind) to drop the tank. But I did bend it toward the outside if the jeep away from the tank. I used a 1/2 inch socket here and on the tank bolts
image-3867307993.jpg

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Unread 07-15-2015, 10:37 PM   #10
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Step 5: now that almost everything is disconnected from the tank make sure you have something underneath the tank to support it while you are lowering it. I used a transmission jack. If you still have a lot of fuel in the tank it will be very heavy. Mine had almost nothing in it but I still used the tranny jack. You will need a 1/2 inch socket for the rear 4 bolts, you can't get a wrench on top of them but the bolts they use are locked in place. The front 3 bolts you will need a 1/2 inch socket and a 1/2 inch wrench. I lleft one nut on the front and one in the back till I knew the jack was ok. Once I lowered he tank I had to remove the lines on the fuel pump and vent line then the tank will drop the rest of the way and is easy to remove.
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Unread 07-15-2015, 11:18 PM   #11
Drednot
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Since you are replacing all the hoses, new filler and vent hoses are affordable and easy to do now.
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Unread 07-16-2015, 11:50 AM   #12
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And the janky rubber seal for the pump access.
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Unread 07-16-2015, 09:48 PM   #13
odss91b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drednot
Since you are replacing all the hoses, new filler and vent hoses are affordable and easy to do now.
They were in great condition. I checked to see if there was any dry rot or cracking on them. Didn't find any so I reused them.
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Unread 07-16-2015, 09:48 PM   #14
odss91b
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtKar
And the janky rubber seal for the pump access.
I wish I would have thought of this before I finished the project!
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Unread 07-16-2015, 10:02 PM   #15
odss91b
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Step 6: one thing that is important to do, although even after reading the chiltons manual I forgot to do, make sure you label where you disconnected the hoses from and which hoses they are. Now that the tank is on the ground you have to remove the rubber lines from the tank which is easy.
Now to remove the rubber lines off of the yj you will have to pull hard on the lines. They are inside of a rubber grommet. Getting them out is definitely easier than putting them back in. When reinstalling the lines I had to use a pry bar and remove one of the body mount bolts to get enough room to get the grommet through.
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