post #31 of Old 11-18-2013, 06:57 PM
hotcobra03
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heres more reading from spicer...i made a pdf link to save u time..you will see diagram posted..

https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=hd...dNJq1yqCbwxf5Q

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post #32 of Old 11-18-2013, 07:40 PM
Jeffro06
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Personally I'd get an SYE, then take the measurements from the output to the pinion yoke and order a CV shaft, then shim it accordingly....welding the spring perches in the proper location would be a better option than shims though.


Short term fix, remove shims, lower transfer case.
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post #33 of Old 11-18-2013, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
Springer45
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So what I'm taking from this is that the drive shaft angle isn't as important as the relationship to the angle of the pinion and yoke. So my angles being 17 and 11 show that I'm 6 degrees difference and the max allowable (but not ideal, being 1 degree) is 3 degrees. so i need to change either the transfer case by three degrees or the rear axle housing by three. if i remove the transfer case drop it will jump down to like 7 degrees of angle instead of eleven and i will need to drastically make a change. such as a cv joint. The only question left is if I remove the shims will it affect my castor angle? Or does castor on an alignment only refer to the front axle?
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post #34 of Old 11-18-2013, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
Springer45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro06 View Post
Personally I'd get an SYE, then take the measurements from the output to the pinion yoke and order a CV shaft, then shim it accordingly....welding the spring perches in the proper location would be a better option than shims though.


Short term fix, remove shims, lower transfer case.
Thanks for your help. I think this is the only option at this point. Short term fix is a good way to tell if my drive shaft is causing the noise. The only issue is that the lift kit came with the transmission drop so I'm hoping that removing the shims fixes my issue. Is there anything else I can do if that doesn't do the trick? Will i have and castor issues if I change the perch angles? or does castor only refer to front axles?
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post #35 of Old 11-18-2013, 07:55 PM
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Castor on refers to the front axle
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post #36 of Old 11-18-2013, 08:10 PM
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more reading..axles by size..

https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=od...tWlBhgD3grzhEA

heres main link..looks like only half copied

http://spicerparts.com/sites/default...ibrary/xgi.pdf
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post #37 of Old 11-18-2013, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
Springer45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotcobra03 View Post
Reading is great and all but I'm looking for answers. I've read a lot but I need to act soon. I'll read later. After the minimum amount of reading I've done, am I not correct on the issue?
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post #38 of Old 11-18-2013, 09:35 PM
hotcobra03
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just remember if you drop trans down front goes up..engine mount ?

i would change rear with a shim ..the service manual has nice write up in both 88 manual and 90 manual but are pdf manuals thats hard to copy..

do you have both of those..they can be uploaded to most cell phones...
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post #39 of Old 11-18-2013, 09:43 PM
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post #40 of Old 11-18-2013, 09:45 PM
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post #41 of Old 11-18-2013, 09:57 PM
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link with pic of cv in rear

http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/aub.html
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post #42 of Old 11-18-2013, 10:07 PM
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post #43 of Old 11-19-2013, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
Springer45
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I just bought a super short tereflex sye kit. I'm going to eliminate me trans drop and shim and install the kit. There goes $500 I don't have. Lol. However I can't say I'm not excited.
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post #44 of Old 11-20-2013, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
Springer45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffro06 View Post
Personally I'd get an SYE, then take the measurements from the output to the pinion yoke and order a CV shaft, then shim it accordingly....welding the spring perches in the proper location would be a better option than shims though.


Short term fix, remove shims, lower transfer case.
So do I measure d.s. length with shims in or out? Does it matter or will it change length depending on the shim? I just remove the shims and the noise is much worse. I just need up get the sye installed. How long will it take to do? It seems like a couple hour job?
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post #45 of Old 11-20-2013, 09:16 PM
Randonexplosion
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You want to measure for the driveshaft where the axle is going to stay. Though it isn't going to make a big difference either way. If you have never been into a transfer case it may take a bit longer but 2-3 hours is about right. Get a good pair of snap ring plyers. They can be a pain in the butt. Some people leave the transfer case attached to the transmission, but personally I think it is worth pulling all of the way down to work on it comfortably.
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