I searched dozens of threads and I could not find the info I am looking for.
Can the driver's side axle seal on a dana 30 be changed without removing the carrier? I have to replace both the passenger side and driver's side after having changed my u-joints and now both are leaking. Typical.
I have the threaded rod/nut and washers system ready to go.
Also, I read a thread that recommended moving the threaded rod side to side between tightening the nut so the seal rocks back and forth as it seats. Is this a good idea?
Get at least one extra seal. You will almost certainly ruin one trying to get it in on the passenger side.
Since you will have the carrier out it would probably be easier to put in the pass side seal by passing some sort of bar all the way thru the axle tube from the drivers side. Position yourself to guide the business end and steer the seal into place while a helper taps on the other end. The threaded rod method works ok, but the real challenge to that is finding something that is exactly the right diamter and is strong enough to pull in the seal. Plus while doing it you can not actually see if it's going in straight.
I was the one that recomended the tapping the threaded nut side to side. Not allot but just a little tap ( about a 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch or less). I found this out after ruining two seals that it helped keep the threaded bar and the seal to go in straight. By applying pressure evenly to the seal sides.
True there is no room but getting the seal started is the challenge. Once the seal is started it can only go straight
Thanks guys. Well I had to go to the hardware store to get another washer because the first one I got was exactly the same size as the inside diameter of the metal portion of the passenger side seal. The one the hardware store had was about 1/4" too big around. It also was a 1" diameter hole. So I took two other washers to reduce the size to the threaded rod i had and tack welded them together. Then I took the whole thing to the grinder to get the outside diameter the right size. In the end it worked perfectly using a block of wood with a hole drilled through it on the outside. It seemed to seat perfectly and does not leak. However, I'm not certain how you can determine if the seal is completely seated no matter what way you do it. I guess you know if it doesn't leak.
Yeah, the lip is about 3/16" but between the flex in the washers (even though 3 were tack welded together) and the fact that the threaded rod did turn a bit even with 2 nuts on the washer side, I couldn't determine if I had done it enough. So I just turned it until I thought I might damage the seal.
BTW, I used a tie rod fork to remove the seal. It took me about 1 minute. I know some people have had some trouble removing these seals. The fork worked perfect. Plus they're cheap and good for removing tie rods too.