i'm open to ideas, however, i'm looking for cheapist option at this point. I will have the SYE/DS in the upcoming year, just trying to get her back on the road ASAP. I am going to lower the TC with washers to figure out the spacing and order the drop kit for now. I'll do the MML or replacement Brown Dog motor mounts when they're needed.
So next day I have off, either monday, or late night fri sat or sun, work on the different amounts of drop and check angles. I'll post back as soon as I have angles.
Black 1993 YJ 4.0, 5 Speed
Slowly but surely getting better and better. Trailer build soon!!
TC drop is easier and probably best IF temporary. If you invest in BD MML, you're not likely going to remove them and that will affect your front pinion angle (which ISNT an issue unless you do TJ/XJ shafts or an autolocker up front).
TC drop will affect front PA as well, but if it's temp. its unlikely to be there when it would actually matter.
There's no need to worry about ur pinion angle up front with that small of a lift, if u were SOA on lift springs then it'd b another conversation. I run a mml and my transfercase is dropped an inch, it's whatever works or ur situation. It's not alway an exact science, u gota get under there n measure n see what u got to work with once u have everything set in place.
if you have a trolly jack support the TC with with skid plate on it and slowly let it down until the TC angle is where you want it. per your pics you should go for the same angle DOWN on the TC as the angle you have at the rearend. once you get it where you want it see how much gap there is between the skid plate and the frame. that will be the drop you need. also check the yoke at the TC to see how much it goes back into the TC.
I can't figure out why this is messed up. I followed the rules and have never had a driveline problem. I have had three differnt drive shaft configurations and am SOA with an ax15 conversion which makes my drive shaft 2" shorter. Also no TC drop. Just get an SYE and have a tj front shaft cut down to the length you need. Remove the TC drop and adjust your pinion angle until the ride is smooth.
95 YJ, 2.5 AX15 conversion, 4.0 TB, SOA +1.5", 33" DC Crusher Tires, 8.8 Rear w/welded tubes + LSD, Spartan Locker HP30 Front w/solid axle swap, Rocky Road OTT kit, JKS Disconnects, AA SYE, Teraflex Shock Bar in Rear, 1/2" Boomerang Shackles, RE Add a Leafs, Homebrew Traction Bar, Monstalined in&out, LED Tail lights, 1700 Watt Stereo
yes an sye is ideal but some of us cant afford to spend that kind of money right away. These are toys for most of us. I purchased a set of $30 shims to correct my angle and it runs percfect now. I'm glad i tried that before spending $500 of something i didnt need since I dont plan on going any bigger. In his case I would suggest he try the same. His front angle is horrible and would def cause some vibration so its worth a try to lower it. There is a VERY good chance it will help his situation for now.
Front angle? Your not talking about the front driveshaft right? Talking about the back of the TC? Maybe it is confusing to people that if the TC is not dropped the Pinion angle should actually be lower not higher. As long as the shaft length is correct and the angles match it should not vibrate at all. It is geometry. If the TC is pretty much level, then the rear pinion should pretty much be level as well. Of course the fact the rear pinion rises under power must be taken into consideration. The angle you measure while it is parked is NOT the same angle you usually will have will doing 35mph. I would stick a camera under there pointed at the driveshaft and drive around. When it vibrates beep the horn so you know on the video when the vibration is happening. The rear pinion should not rise more than 3 degrees though.
Someone may have already uploaded a similar image, but browsing through some files I had for another diagram I came across this one I saved a while back. Perfect example of how your angles should with the stock shaft.