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GEARSHADE Pocket Tops in stock and available at ROCKRIDGE Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon ZipUSA Made JK Rear Axles!!! Revolution Gear and Axle

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Unread 01-23-2013, 06:37 PM   #31
kjg26
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The way I'm thinking about it....if the goal is to have the yokes b parallel ill have to remove the shim as well as drop the tc. I got the bolts loose and bought some longer bolts so ill start by lowering and checking angles. Ill post back. Which angles should I post? Tc, rear pinion, and drive shaft angle? Or just the tc and rear pinion?

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Unread 01-23-2013, 07:02 PM   #32
Lrasser
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all 3 would be good. if you take the shims out you might make the rear joint too steep. Def try just dropping the t-case first. My pinion angle is about 2 deg higher then my t-case angle but thats where my truck likes it. Every jeep is different. it's trial and error. rule of thumb I found was +/- 2 deg. Most will say -2 deg but the drive shaft shop in my area which is extreamly well known says +/- 3 so depends on who you talk to. As long as you get no vibes its good.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 07:03 PM   #33
Lrasser
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also the steeper the drive shaft angle the more chance of vibrations......
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Unread 01-23-2013, 07:49 PM   #34
olsont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Axle shims are the wrong way to go. The geometry of a stock type drive shaft does not have the pinion pointing at the Tcase yoke. You need a transfer case drop as a short term fix, then an SYE as soon as you can get to it. Perhaps a MML as well.

Here's the differences
Agree I didn't even think about the drive shaft. Shimming wont help if its a slip yoke (stock) shaft. I converted to a sye slip yoke eliminator and was able to shim
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Unread 01-23-2013, 08:09 PM   #35
0verkillYJ
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Yeah for a stock shaft length will be a big difference. If you reduce the angle of the driveshaft enough angles at each end won't have as big of an impact. Only costs about $100 or so to have lengthened.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 08:25 PM   #36
kjg26
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Overkill. I'm not clear on what you're saying.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 05:10 AM   #37
Lrasser
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how did you make out?
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Unread 01-24-2013, 05:33 AM   #38
kjg26
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Got the bolts loose, had to be up at 0400 this morning so I called it an early night. Possibly will get back into it tonight. Have longer bolts already. Ill get back with yall. Thanks.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 06:44 AM   #39
0verkillYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Overkill. I'm not clear on what you're saying.
You have angles you can measure at each end of the driveshaft. I am talking the the amount the shaft bends at the u joint. The longer your shaft the more reduced those angles are. That = less intense vibration. The steeper those angles the harder it vibrates.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 04:17 PM   #40
kahanabob
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take a long pencil and draw two vertical (up/down) lines. separate the lines about 1/2 " less then the length of the pencil take the pencil and lay it on the paper horizontally between the lines angling it so each end just touches the vertical lines on both sides. now keeping one side just on the line move the other side of the pencil to a straight horizontal position. you will see the end of the pencil goes past the line, same result you will get (on a bigger scale) when correcting the angle of the driveshaft. that is your yoke going back into the TC. in my situation when i aligned the driveshaft too perfect the driveshaft became pinched between the rearend and TC.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 06:19 PM   #41
0verkillYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kahanabob View Post
take a long pencil and draw two vertical (up/down) lines. separate the lines about 1/2 " less then the length of the pencil take the pencil and lay it on the paper horizontally between the lines angling it so each end just touches the vertical lines on both sides. now keeping one side just on the line move the other side of the pencil to a straight horizontal position. you will see the end of the pencil goes past the line, same result you will get (on a bigger scale) when correcting the angle of the driveshaft. that is your yoke going back into the TC. in my situation when i aligned the driveshaft too perfect the driveshaft became pinched between the rearend and TC.
Yeah, the yoke should ride where the wear mark is on it from the factory position.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 08:39 PM   #42
linusb
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Pretty sure your gonna need more than a 3/4 TC drop. 1 1/2 seems right.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 09:37 AM   #43
bgredjeep
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So did you ditch the MML idea? Raising the motor will have the same effect as lowering the trans w/ the TC drop kit. If you have room to lift the motor, I'd go that route. The angle of the driveshaft doesn't really matter as long as you aren't going to bind the joints. The MML should get you close to matching angles on the 2 yokes.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 09:40 AM   #44
bogleparsons
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I've got both a 1" BD mml and a 1" TC drop. It doesnt have to be one or the other.
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Unread 01-25-2013, 09:43 AM   #45
bgredjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogleparsons View Post
I've got both a 1" BD mml and a 1" TC drop. It doesnt have to be one or the other.
Of course not, but if you can get by w/o lowering the skid that would be ideal
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