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Unread 04-09-2013, 04:10 PM   #16
flcracker
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To keep the stainless bolts from seizing up, use some anti-seize compound on the threads before you thread them in. I found a small container at my local Ace Hardware. Its a silver paste and has a small brush attached to the lid to apply it with....

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Unread 04-09-2013, 05:06 PM   #17
pasinbuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flcracker View Post
To keep the stainless bolts from seizing up, use some anti-seize compound on the threads before you thread them in. I found a small container at my local Ace Hardware. Its a silver paste and has a small brush attached to the lid to apply it with....
I understand that for stainless there is a stainless steel anti seize compound.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 10:20 AM   #18
GrantYJ
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OP,
I don't know if you've resolved this yet, but I ran into a similar situation the evening before last. My captured plate isn't stripped, but it popped off during reassembly of my body (I pulled all the body panels except for the tub when I painted). I remembered seeing this post, so I figured that I'd document how I fixed mine.

Initially, I tried to fish the backer plate back into position through the hole that is under the plate that ties the windshield to the dash on the inside. I tried everything from extension magnets to flex handle magnets, screwdrivers to bailing wire and only managed to get p*ssed off in the process, so I took a little bit more aggressive approach. (This method should also lend itself to get to the side that you're having problems with.)

With the windshield folded down, remove a few screws holding on the cowl gasket and pull it back. If your gasket is bad, this is a great time to replace it. Then, make a "Z" cut (see pic). I just used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutting disk. I don't recommend getting as close to the end screw hole as I did, but it didn't cause a problem.

2013-04-09_19-03-13_666.jpg

Then, fold the two triangles back and remove the irritating piece of metal.

2013-04-09_18-55-51_286.jpg

2013-04-09_18-57-42_496.jpg

Now you can place it where it belongs, start a couple of the bolts, and (in my case) bend the retaining tab back down so that I won't have to do this again.

2013-04-09_19-01-19_35.jpg

2013-04-09_19-01-45_968.jpg

Now all you have to do is fold the "Z"s back in, tack weld a few spots, clean off all the metal and put a little paint on (I had just put my windshield glass back in and didn't want to get paint everywhere, so I just used some glazing sealant as a rust inhibitor). Once the paint is dry (or in my case, sealant), reinstall the cowl gasket and you're good to go.

2013-04-09_19-06-18_979.jpg

The nice thing about doing it this way is that it's completely covered by the cowl gasket. It shouldn't cause any leaks or ever be a cosmetic concern.

I hope this helped.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 10:55 AM   #19
flcracker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ View Post
OP,
I don't know if you've resolved this yet, but I ran into a similar situation the evening before last. My captured plate isn't stripped, but it popped off during reassembly of my body (I pulled all the body panels except for the tub when I painted). I remembered seeing this post, so I figured that I'd document how I fixed mine.

Initially, I tried to fish the backer plate back into position through the hole that is under the plate that ties the windshield to the dash on the inside. I tried everything from extension magnets to flex handle magnets, screwdrivers to bailing wire and only managed to get p*ssed off in the process, so I took a little bit more aggressive approach. (This method should also lend itself to get to the side that you're having problems with.)

With the windshield folded down, remove a few screws holding on the cowl gasket and pull it back. If your gasket is bad, this is a great time to replace it. Then, make a "Z" cut (see pic). I just used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutting disk. I don't recommend getting as close to the end screw hole as I did, but it didn't cause a problem.

Attachment 604923

Then, fold the two triangles back and remove the irritating piece of metal.

Attachment 604924

Attachment 604925

Now you can place it where it belongs, start a couple of the bolts, and (in my case) bend the retaining tab back down so that I won't have to do this again.

Attachment 604926

Attachment 604927

Now all you have to do is fold the "Z"s back in, tack weld a few spots, clean off all the metal and put a little paint on (I had just put my windshield glass back in and didn't want to get paint everywhere, so I just used some glazing sealant as a rust inhibitor). Once the paint is dry (or in my case, sealant), reinstall the cowl gasket and you're good to go.

Attachment 604928

The nice thing about doing it this way is that it's completely covered by the cowl gasket. It shouldn't cause any leaks or ever be a cosmetic concern.

I hope this helped.
Now that is nice.... can't believe this hadn't been thought of before....
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Unread 04-10-2013, 11:18 AM   #20
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flcracker View Post

Now that is nice.... can't believe this hadn't been thought of before....
Thanks. I spent about an hour trying to fish the plate back in place before I gave up. This took me less than fifteen minutes from the time I unscrewed the cowl gasket to putting the screws back in. Most of that time was spent trying to decide where to clamp my ground until I slapped myself in the head and threaded one of the bolts for the "tub to windshield" plate back in and used that.

I just wish it had been as easy getting the windshield back up with the new cowl gasket... I thought I'd never get "roll bar to windshield frame" bolts back in. Liberal use of silicon spray on the new cowl gasket helped though.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 11:28 AM   #21
kostyanj
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That's definitely an option but I'm gonna try paracord first to fish it through. I just primed it and don't feel like having to redo work if possible.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 11:42 AM   #22
GrantYJ
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Originally Posted by kostyanj View Post
That's definitely an option but I'm gonna try paracord first to fish it through. I just primed it and don't feel like having to redo work if possible.
I know where you're coming from. If you look at the pictures, you'll see shiny new paint everywhere (I didn't repaint the interior side of the windshield frame, but now I kinda wish that I had). I was stuffing welding blankets and soft worn out denim everywhere I could in an attempt to keep the cutting dust and weld from ruining freshly buffed out paint (the little white spots in the second picture are buffing compound that was cast off the wheel while buffing the driver's side that I haven't cleaned off yet).

I hope that you can fish it through, but take a look at the 4th picture down. You can see the two tabs that are supposed to hold the backer plate in place. There are also a couple of alignment tabs that just stick up. I don't think that I'd have ever been able to get it back in place without cutting the access hole.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 08:37 PM   #23
brentd711
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I managed to get my plates back in position using a pair of strings on each plate but it took me a couple of hours to do it. Very frustrating. Getting them close is easy, getting the bolts started is the real pain. I ended up using a couple of pieces of threaded rod about 6" long. You can stick them through the hinges and angle them a bit to catch the threads on the plate. Thread a nut down the exposed rod to pull the plates up where they need to be to start your Torx into the plate in another hole. Good luck.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 11:04 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasinbuy View Post
you cannot weld a nut to a stainless bolt.
Don't tell my stainless torx removal tools that...

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