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Unread 04-08-2013, 07:49 AM   #1
kostyanj
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Drilled windshield bolts out, now what...

So here's the story. I bought a windshield frame that I'm going to use as a replacement. The hinges on it were somewhat seized and I needed to paint it. So I decided to drill the bolts out. Well after burning through a few bits and half a can of pb, bolts are gone. But in the process the welded nuts all came out. For both sets of bolts.

The question is now what the hell do I do to get nuts back in there? I was thinking of just getting some sturdy flat washers and nuts. But how do I snake them in there?

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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:02 AM   #2
rescue7
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Those nuts aren't welded. They are spun on, and there is a factory epoxy on the backside.

Is your dash out? You have to have the dash out to reach the nuts behind there. I just restored my Jeep, so it was easy. I put all new stainless on, and sealed with a 3M sealant.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:15 AM   #3
kostyanj
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I'm talking about the nuts inside the windshield frame. I got the nuts behind the dash out pretty easily.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:18 AM   #4
crackedcornish
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Originally Posted by kostyanj View Post
So here's the story. I bought a windshield frame that I'm going to use as a replacement. The hinges on it were somewhat seized and I needed to paint it. So I decided to drill the bolts out. Well after burning through a few bits and half a can of pb, bolts are gone. But in the process the welded nuts all came out. For both sets of bolts.

The question is now what the hell do I do to get nuts back in there? I was thinking of just getting some sturdy flat washers and nuts. But how do I snake them in there?
the bottom half of the hinges are just a nut and bolt set with access from underneath the dash for the nuts...the top half screws into a threaded plate inside the windshield frame

here's the threaded plate


it goes into the frame like this (drivers side shown) it just flips over to do the pass. side
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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:33 AM   #5
kostyanj
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Yep that's what came out as well as the 4 side nuts for the top part of the hinge. (2 per side). Those were welded in. So I guess the easiest thing would be to get some sort of flexible nut driver to get the side nuts in?
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Unread 04-08-2013, 08:50 AM   #6
pasinbuy
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If the windshield piece fell out of it's holder it will be a pain to rebolt it in. It may take time but it is do-able.

I highly recommend that you use the original torx bolts for all hinges. No other will lay flat like the torx if you like flush fit.

Definatley do not use stainless. Electrolysis will set in and you will never get a stainless bolt out. Plus stainless is a softer metal and easy to round out the allan head, plus you cannot weld a nut to a stainless bolt. Enough reasons?
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Unread 04-08-2013, 09:07 AM   #7
kostyanj
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I'm fairly sure I can snake that piece in with a string or something. My bigger concern is getting the 2 nuts on each side in. I'll take a picture of what I'm talking about when I get home.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 09:34 AM   #8
jbolty
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Originally Posted by kostyanj View Post
I'm fairly sure I can snake that piece in with a string or something. My bigger concern is getting the 2 nuts on each side in. I'll take a picture of what I'm talking about when I get home.
There are no nuts inside the windshield frame, that plate has threaded holes.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 09:37 AM   #9
kostyanj
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On each side of the windshield frame are 4 bolts. 2 go into that threaded plate and the 2 side ones go into captive nuts. In my case those captive nuts came out.

I'll take a picture after work today.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #10
jbolty
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I bought a new frame and there were two plates on each side. It would not be all that hard to make a new set of plates but getting the holes lines up is obviously the most critical part of the job.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by pasinbuy View Post
.... Plus stainless is a softer metal and easy to round out the allan head, plus you cannot weld a nut to a stainless bolt.
Since when? Where did you come up with this information?
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Unread 04-08-2013, 07:43 PM   #12
bigbossd1030
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Originally Posted by Shadownwpa

Since when? Where did you come up with this information?
I don't know about stainless being softer, I have never noticed this before. As for the welding, you can in fact weld a non stainless piece of steel to a stainless using normal Welding methods such as mig. But doing so obviously makes it not stainless. In order to keep everything stainless you need tig with a stainless rod, or an arc welder with stainless rod. I think there was just a little miscommunication here.

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Unread 04-09-2013, 06:43 AM   #13
Shadownwpa
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Originally Posted by bigbossd1030 View Post
I don't know about stainless being softer, I have never noticed this before. As for the welding, you can in fact weld a non stainless piece of steel to a stainless using normal Welding methods such as mig. But doing so obviously makes it not stainless. In order to keep everything stainless you need tig with a stainless rod, or an arc welder with stainless rod. I think there was just a little miscommunication here.

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Maybe an engineer can weigh in, but I didn't see anything in the astm specs (a307 or f593) that would show the stainless to be noticeably softer and more likely to strip.

"stainless" steel is only stainless because of the higher percentages of chromium and nickle in it's composition... when you weld and melt carbon steel electrode into it then that lowers those percentages to an extent so it will rust, but probably not as severely as regular carbon steel... and only in the weld and the heat affected area.

As far as stainless mig wire... even harbor freight sells it.


... back on topic... I got my windshield off last weekend but had different trouble. The top bolts came out fine except for one that needed a CARBON bolt welded to it since it was stripped. On the bottom ones the nuts just turn and are covered in gobs of body sealer. I carved the sealer off and tacked the nuts to the body on the passenger side and haven't gotten to the other side yet.

For the OP's problem... drill an access hole for one of these to grab the bolt plate and pull it back where you need it... they make soft plugs that can pop in to fill the holes.
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Unread 04-09-2013, 07:52 AM   #14
pasinbuy
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I did not know that stainless would weld to regular steel so easy. I stand corrected.

Stainless is a softer metal and does strip or in the case of allan head round out easier. My biggest fear of using stainless steel is electrolysis. After time stainless will weld itself in due to electrolysis and being such a soft metal VS a grade 5 or 8 will be difficult to remove.
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Unread 04-09-2013, 02:23 PM   #15
XJ93
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I can get the proper tapered head bolt at my local hardware store, in fact I have done so for my tailgate hinges and my upcoming windshield/frame replacement will be getting them as well. I do not really care for the fact that they are allen head but I am hoping that the next time I need to pull them out will coincide with another frame replacement so drilling them out is not an issue, plus they aren't that expensive.
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