Drag Link Clearance - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 41 Old 07-09-2011, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
Louie4
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Drag Link Clearance

I've been meaning to get this fixed but have been neglecting it. Now that I have a stock pitman arm I'm thinking about getting the go-ferit flip kit for the tie rod but I'm already having interference between my draglink (at the pitman arm) and the tie rod. I've posted pics of my current setup, my dropped pitman arm and the stock one.

At full stuff on the drivers side the drag link at the pitman arm hits the tie rod. I know I need extended bumpstops but even if I get those I feel like it would still hit. Has anyone had this problem before? If so, what did you do to resolve it? Also, I don't feel like I can turn to the left as good as I can the right.








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post #2 of 41 Old 07-09-2011, 12:50 PM
Anticanman
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I don't think the goferit system will fix your situation. I think you might want to try the stock pitman arm and see if it works with your lift. I've been in the middle of installing the flip kit for over three months now. Just can't seem to drill through the stock tie rod to flip the drag link.

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post #3 of 41 Old 07-09-2011, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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I just wanted the go-ferit system to get my tie rod further away from the rocks. My plan was to fix my steering so I could install the flip kit since a buddy gave me his stock pitman arm. I thought about getting a XJ pitman arm. I think it's 3.5" drop.

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post #4 of 41 Old 07-09-2011, 01:45 PM
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If you flip it and go back to the stock height PA you might be OK, or just a shorter DPA.

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post #5 of 41 Old 07-09-2011, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like I need to change to the stock pitman arm until I can figure something out.

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post #6 of 41 Old 07-12-2011, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
Louie4
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An update of what I can do to fix this or help alleviate it.

I came across something from another thread and thought I might share just in case anyone else has the same problem or if I'm wrong someone can correct me. I flexed my suspension last night and found that my drag line TRE at the pitman arm is nearly hitting the tie rod on full stuff (off-road it does hit). If I had extended bumpstops I could nearly eliminate it. Another thing that might help (but probably not justify) is the Durango steering box. It looks like splined shaft on the durango box is further towards the front which might help the clearance or maybe the pic is an optical allusion. I also need to flip the clamps on the drag link so the bolts are away from the tie rod as they interfere too because the bolt head was hitting the tie rod.

Hopefully someone who has done the swap can confirm measurements. The best thing I can do at this point is buy some extended bumpstops for the front. However, it might be cheaper to get a Durango box at the pull-a-part.
Attached Thumbnails
Durangoandjeepsteeringbox.jpg  

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post #7 of 41 Old 07-12-2011, 08:54 PM
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I did the Dakota/Durango steering box swap. and after I ran it off-road once, swapped back to a stock box. The Dodge box does not swing the pitman as far as the Jeep box. The Jeep will go thru an arc of nearly 90*, while the Dak/Dur box moves thru about 40-45*. Please note that these are guesstimations. On the trail, any tight turn that I could do with the stock box became a two or three point turn. Even turning into my driveway became more exciting. The dimensions of the D/D box are slightly larger in all areas, but the sector shaft location is for all practical purposes identical. If you do use the D/D box, be sure to put a bolt thru the unused hole on the frame-mounting bracket or the bracket will be poorly supported and will allow the box to move- not good!
I did have another D/D box available to check the pitman movement arc and found they were identical. I'll be using the Jeep box for a while longer.

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post #8 of 41 Old 07-13-2011, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Castr8r View Post
I did the Dakota/Durango steering box swap. and after I ran it off-road once, swapped back to a stock box. The Dodge box does not swing the pitman as far as the Jeep box. The Jeep will go thru an arc of nearly 90*, while the Dak/Dur box moves thru about 40-45*. Please note that these are guesstimations. On the trail, any tight turn that I could do with the stock box became a two or three point turn. Even turning into my driveway became more exciting. The dimensions of the D/D box are slightly larger in all areas, but the sector shaft location is for all practical purposes identical. If you do use the D/D box, be sure to put a bolt thru the unused hole on the frame-mounting bracket or the bracket will be poorly supported and will allow the box to move- not good!
I did have another D/D box available to check the pitman movement arc and found they were identical. I'll be using the Jeep box for a while longer.
Thanks for clearing that up

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post #9 of 41 Old 11-11-2011, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to revisit this problem. I still haven't done anything about yet, well I have some extended bumpstops coming next week so I'll see how that goes. I've figured that the problem resides in the springs. They are a little sagged and it's caused the axle to be pushed forward. I checked Black Diamond installation manual and I have the springs in the correct orientation. I have a stock pitman arm I could use but that will increase the angle between the drag link and tie rod. I don't think it will be a huge problem but maybe see what the consensus is. If it does seem like the angle would be a problem, does anyone know of a "shorter" dropped pitman arm? It doesn't have be dropped more than the stock one really.

Opinions and recommendations welcome.

Lou

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post #10 of 41 Old 11-11-2011, 07:30 AM
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I am running a similar suspension to you, the stock pitman arm and the goferit flip and although its close, I have had no issues at full stuff. I use the stock bumps because I like all the travel. The only caveat is that I am using the Rustys steering conversion.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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post #11 of 41 Old 11-11-2011, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
I am running a similar suspension to you, the stock pitman arm and the goferit flip and although its close, I have had no issues at full stuff. I use the stock bumps because I like all the travel. The only caveat is that I am using the Rustys steering conversion.
My buddy bought a reamer and flip kit from ok4wd.com. He said I could use the reamer if I bought the inserts. I'm thinking about going this route. My axle never hits the stock bumpstops on full stuff. At least not on the driver's side due to the drop pitman arm/drag link hitting the tie rod.

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post #12 of 41 Old 11-29-2011, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well I put the stock pitman arm back on and I think it will keep the drag link from hitting the tie rod. The only problem I'm having a little bumpsteer. I never had it with the dropped one. I measured the drag link to the tie rod then the axle tube to the new extended Daystar bumpstops. I determined I needed the stock pitman arm but I might put the dropped on back on and see if it actually hits at full stuff.


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post #13 of 41 Old 11-29-2011, 07:35 PM
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Yeah that geometry looks familiar.
Reference pics

Stock pitman, 3.5" springs, 5/8" lift shackles, Rustys steering conversion

Before TR flip,


And after TR flip. No more bump steer after the flip.


Not quite fully stuffed but you get the idea

Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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post #14 of 41 Old 11-29-2011, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper
Yeah that geometry looks familiar.
Reference pics

Stock pitman, 3.5" springs, 5/8" lift shackles, Rustys steering conversion

Before TR flip,

And after TR flip. No more bump steer after the flip.

Not quite fully stuffed but you get the idea
Looks exactly like mine. Does the draglink at the pitman arm interfere with the tie rod after the rusty's steering conversion at full stuff?

Lou

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post #15 of 41 Old 11-29-2011, 08:55 PM
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curious to how your works out...Waitning for the results

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