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Unread 01-12-2010, 08:13 PM   #1
cevans87
Registered User
1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
Doing 4.0 Swap Now..... Need Help Now !!!

I bought an 88 Wrangler.

It had already had a 4.0, but the dumba** put the carb and intake back on, so I decided to take the motor back to fuel injection.

The motor is 93, don't know what the donor was.

The tranny is a Peug BA-10 with cutouts for the CPS.

The Harness, PCM and PDC are out of a 94 XJ.

The intake, and power steering pump are 2001.

What I have done so far :

I have mounted the PCM, PDC and installed the wire harness. I have put the intake, down pipe, cps, map sensor and basically everything else on.

I have taken the yellow wire from the xj harness to the green wire coming off ignition. I have taken the blue wire from the xj harness and put it to a switched 12v source.

My first problem, was that i had no lights. I have not tested my theory but think I have figured that problem out. My old right side bulkhead connector was lights, so I re-wired that bulkhead connector in, that should solve the light problem right ?

The next problem, is I have a green wire, and a white/red stripe wire coming off ignition switch, and have tried both only to not have anything at the starter. After a few minutes of testing wires, I lost the ignition switch and all power to the fuse block.

Tonight I replaced the ignition switch, and bought a new headlamp switch.

Tomorrow, I have to fab out a mount for the fuel pump. I need to know what wire is my hot for the fuel pump so I can run the wires. I am keeping my 88yj fuel sending unit and adding a hot and ground to the new pump which is from the xj.

The next question is the green wire/black stripe coming from the PDC, that should go to the starter correct?

Next question, did 94 Cherokee have the Ballast resistor, because I have no wires for it. I have had them on every jeep I've owned, and this is bugging me.

In no way shape or form am I new to Jeeps, just new to the 4.2 to 4.0 swap. I own both motors and have built a pretty stout XJ, I have no complaints with the 4.2 other than it hates the cold which has promted the fuel injection swap, although once the Jeep is painted, and built I will be transplanting a 327 w/ 375 Heads and a M-22 Rock Crusher Tranny with Atlas 2 and Dana 60's or Rockwells.

The only other question I have is do I need the Charcoal Canister, Because I am purging off vaccum for the front axle disconnect and only have MAP sensor and PCV that need hooked up. I have no use for any other vaccum. I don't have cruise, and my heater is manual operation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THE FOLLOWING IS AND EDITED POST ABOUT THIS SWAP...

I BOUGHT A 1988 YJ. IT HAD A 4.0L AND PEUG BA-10 THAT THE PO HAD PUT A MOTORCRAFT 2100 CARB AND INTAKE ON, NOT HAVING TO CHANGE OUT ANY WIRING.

IT'S WINTER IN SOUTH CAROLINA, AND THE CARB WAS NOT DOING IT IN THE MORNINGS, BARELY WANTED TO RUN.

I WENT TO THE JUNKYARD AND FOR $159 GOT THE HARNESS, ECM, INTAKE, DOWNPIE WITH O2 SENSOR, CPS, AND SENSORS FOR THIS SWAP OFF A 1994 AND 1995 XJ.

I JUMPED RIGHT IN AFTER READING SEVERAL THREADS ABOUT THE SWAP.

ATTENTION ::: YOU WILL ONLY USE ONE SIDE OF THE XJ BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, KEEP THE OLD YJ RIGHT SIDE BULKHED CONNECTOR AS IT WILL CONTROL YOUR HEADLIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS

AFTER PAINTING AND PUTTING THE HARNESS, ECM, INTAKE, SENSORS AND EVERYTHING ELSE ON, I STARTED TO RUN INTO THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS.

1. WIRING HARNESS

THE OBD1 HARNESS WILL NOT PLUG AND PLAY TO THE YJ HARNESS AT THE BULKHEAD. ALSO YOU WILL ONLY USE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE XJ HARNESS, AS THE OLD RIGHT SIDE WILL CONTROL YOUR HEADLIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS. YOU WILL HAVE TO DO THE FOLOWING AT THE MINIMUM TO GET IT TO START, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVED YOUR FUSE BLOCK TO SEE THE BACK SIDE OF THE YJ HARNESS TO TRACE WIRES... THERE ARE TWO SCREWS, ONE ON TOP, ONE ON BOTTOM OPPOSITE SIDES... THEN YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE CLIPS HOLDING THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE BULKHD CONNECTOR.

YELLOW WIRE FROM XJ HARNESS TRIGGERS YOUR STARTER, IT WILL NEED TO GO TO YOUR GREEN WIRE AT THE YJ HARNESS, THIS GREEN WIRE IS FOUND AT THE IGNITION SWITCH ALSO, YOU CAN SIMPLY REMOVE THE XJ SIDE BULKHEAD AND DISASEMBLE IT BY TAKING THE TWO PLASTIC COVERS OFF RIGHT AT THE CONNECTOR, AND THEN REMOVING THE WHITE CLIPS ON THE SIDE, AFTER DOING THIS YOU CAN REMOVE THE YELLOW WIRE AND PLACE IT IN THE CORRESPONDING HOLE THAT YOUR YJ HAS THE GREEN WIRE.


THE XJ BIG BLUE WIRE WILL NEED TO TIE IN TO YOUR YELLOW WIRE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH, YOU CAN DO THIS AT THE IGNITION SWITCH, OR TRACE IT BACK TO THE YJ BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, YOU CAN ALSO PUT IT TO A SWITCHED 12V SOURCE. THIS WIRE CUTS THE ECM ON AND TRIGGERS SEVERAL RELAYS IN THE PDC.

FUEL PUMP---

YOU WILL NEED TO GET A EXTERNAL FUEL PUMP CAPABLE OF 39.5PSI FOR OBD1 OR 43PSI FOR OBD2, OR FIND A 91' OR NEWER YJ WITH THE TANK AND PUMP TOGETHER. IF YOU GET A NEW TANK WITH THE PUMP ALREADY IN, YOU CAN PLUG INTO THE FACTORY HARNESS WITHOUT SPLICING ANYTHING

TO GIVE THE FUEL PUMP POWER, YOU WILL HAVE A GREEN/WHITE STRIPE WIRE AT THE XJ HARNESS ONCE YOU HAVE LOCATED THIS, MOVE ON TO NEXT STEP

LOOK UNDER THE DASH AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT KICK PANEL THERE WILL BE A CONNECTOR WITH THREE WIRES, ONE OF THESE IS ORANGE... NOW GO BACK TO YOUR FUEL TANK, LOOK AT THE CONNECTION THERE YOU WILL SEE 3 WIRES GOING IN FROM THE MAIN HARNESS AND ONLY 2 GOING TO THE TANK...

YOU NEED TO TRACE THE ORANGE WIRE TO THE YJ BULHEAD CONNECTOR AND TIE THE GREEN ONE IN BY MOVING THE GREEN WIRE TO MATE THE ORANGE, OR SPLICING THEM TOGETHER.

HEATER BLOWER - -

YOU NEED TO FIND THE ORANGE/BLACK STRIPE AT THE YJ HARNESS AND TRACE IT TO A WIRE ON THE XJ HARNESS, CUT IT ON THE XJ SIDE, NOW GO GET A LENGTH OF WIRE THAT WILL REACH ACROSS THE FIRE WALL, TIE INTO THE WIRE AND THEN RUN IT OVER TO YOUR BLOWER, THERE IS A SINGLE CONNECTION ON THE BLOWER UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY BOX, YOU NEED TO HOOK THE OTHER END OF THAT WIRE TO THIS CONNECTION, AND YOU WILL HAVE HEAT AGAIN.

GUAGES - -

YOU WILL NEED TO TIE IN MOST OF YOUR GUAGES AS THE XJ HARNESS DOES NOT SUPPORT THEM, YOU CAN DO THIS BY REMOVING YOUR GUAGE CLUSTER AND SPLICING NEW WIRES TO THOSE SENSORS.

IE. RUNNING NEW WIRES FROM THE CLUSTER TO EACH INDIVIDUAL SENSOR, TEMP, VOLTS, FUEL, AND OIL.

TACH - GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT THE IGNITION COIL

FUEL LEVEL - TAN/BLACK STRIPE OFF THE THREE WIRE CONNECTOR AT THE KICK PANEL

OIL PRESURE - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE SENDER

VOLTS - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE BATTERY OR FUSE BOX

WATER TEMP - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE SENDER... BACK DRIVERSIDE, TOP OF THE HEAD

YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO DO ANYTHING FOR YOUR HEADLIGHTS, TAIL LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, AND PARK LIGHTS IF YOU USED THE OLD BULKHEAD CONNECTOR LIKE I EXPLAINED...

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - -

MY PEUG BA-10 TRANNY HAD THE CUTOUT AND BOLT HOLES FOR A CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR THIS IS NOT THE CASE IN MOST PUEG BA-10 TRANNYS, IF YOU HAVE THIS TRANNY I WOULD SUGGEST SWAPPING FOR AN EXTERNAL SLAVED AX-15, AS IT IS EASIER TO WORK ON AND REPLACE THE SLAVE IF IT GOES OUT, AND IS A MUCH STONGER TRANNY OVERALL. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE RESOURCES AND $ FOR A TRANNY SWAP, HESCO MAKESA CPS RELOCATION KIT THAT MOUNT ON THE FRONT OF TH OIL PAN AND COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED IT'S ABOUT $240

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

IF YOUR JEEP ORIGINALY CAME WITH A 4.2L. YOU HAVE A MECHANICAL SPEEDOMETER. YOU WILL NEED TO GO TO AUTOZONE AND GET THE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR FOR A 1990 JEEP WRANGLER. THIS VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR IS HELD IN THE TRANSFERCASE WITH ONE BOLT. ONCE YOU GET THE 1990 VSS FROM AUTOZONE YOU WILL BE ABLE TO RUN YOU CONNECTOR FOR ECM AND YOUR MECHANICAL CABLE FOR YOUR SPEEDOMETER. YOU CAN DRIVE WITHOUT THE CABLE FOR THE ECM HOOKED UP, BUT YOU RUN A STRONG CHANCE OF THE VEHICLE DIEING WHEN BRAKED HARD.

IF YOU ARE USING THE HARNESS AND ECM OUT OF AN AUTOMATIC AND YOU HAVE A MANUAL TRANNY LISTEN UP!!!!

THERE ARE TWO CONNECTORS RIGHT BEHIND THE VALVE COVER TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE, ONE IS BLACK ONE IS WHITE...

ON THE BLACK ONE YOU WILL SEE LITTLE LETTERS ON THE OUTSIDE... A, B, C AND SO ON... YOU WILL NEED TO GET A FEMALE BUTT CONNECTOR AND PUT IT ON THE B AND C PINS... THIS WILL GROUND OUT THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH AND MAKE THE ECM THINK IT'S IN PARK, WITHOUT THIS YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO START YOUR JEEP ONCE YOUR DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IF YOU DO THIS YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO.

MY OTHER PROBLEMS CONSISTED OF THE FOLLOWING.

I GOT AN INTAKE OFF A NEW STYLE JEEP, IT HAS BETTER FLOW RATE THE PREVIOUS YEARS, THE REASON THIS WAS A PROBLEM WAS I NEEDED A DIFFERENT POWER STEERING PUMP, AND POWER STEERING PUMP MOUNT, AFTER THIS WAS ALL ON, I NEEDED A DIFFERENT BELT... ONCE I HAD THE CORRECT BELT BECAUSE I WAS USING AN OLDER 4.0 ENGINE, THE BELT WOULD BE RUBBING RIGHT AGAINST THE TIMING MARKS, WHAT I DID WAS MAKE SURE I HAD THE POWER STEERING PUMP, ALTERNATOR, WATER PUMP, AND CRANKSHAFT GOING IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION AND THEN PUT MY BELT ON, YOU WILL FIND NO DIAGRAM FOR THIS IF YOU DECIDE TO USE AN OLDER 4.0 WITH A NEWER INTAKE... YOU HAVE AN EXTRA IDLER PULLY AND BECAUSE OF THE TIMING MARKS, WILL NEED TO MAKE YOUR OWN BELT DIAGRAM.

IF YOU WANT TO ADD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT... TRACE THE BLACK/PINK STRIPE FROM THE ECM... THIS IS A GROUND... YOUR LIGHT NEEDS TO HAVE A SWITCHED 12V SOURCE AND USE THE BLACK/PINKSTRIPE WIRE AS YOUR GROUND... WORKS LIKE A CHARM, TO CHECK CODES... TURN YOUR KEY ON,OFF,ON,OFF,ON AND WATCH YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT A WILL GIVE YOU LONG BLINKS AT FIRST AND THEN SHORT BLINKS

EXAMPLE 2 LONGS AND 4 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 24
1 LONG AND 6 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 16
6 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 6

I WILL POST PICTURES OF EACH INDIVIDUAL COMPONENT AND LOCATION LATER


Last edited by cevans87; 02-02-2010 at 06:11 AM..
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Unread 01-12-2010, 08:45 PM   #2
jsawduste
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2006 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
I bought an 88 Wrangler.

It had already had a 4.0, but the dumba** put the carb and intake back on, so I decided to take the motor back to fuel injection. Good idea !!

The motor is 93, don't know what the donor was. Does`nt matter

The tranny is a Peug BA-10 with cutouts for the CPS. Good, lets hope the proper air gap and flywheel triggers are part of it.

The Harness, PCM and PDC are out of a 94 XJ. OK

The intake, and power steering pump are 2001.

What I have done so far :

I have mounted the PCM, PDC and installed the wire harness. I have put the intake, down pipe, cps, map sensor and basically everything else on.

I have taken the yellow wire from the xj harness to the green wire coming off ignition. I have taken the blue wire from the xj harness and put it to a switched 12v source.Sorry, need more info.There is a green on a YJ Ign. switch that runs to the starter relay in the PDC.

My first problem, was that i had no lights. I have not tested my theory but think I have figured that problem out. My old right side bulkhead connector was lights, so I re-wired that bulkhead connector in, that should solve the light problem right ? Correct, the right side BH controls the front harness.

The next problem, is I have a green wire, and a white/red stripe wire coming off ignition switch, and have tried both only to not have anything at the starter. After a few minutes of testing wires, I lost the ignition switch and all power to the fuse block. PDC fuse

Tonight I replaced the ignition switch, and bought a new headlamp switch.

Tomorrow, I have to fab out a mount for the fuel pump. I need to know what wire is my hot for the fuel pump so I can run the wires. I am keeping my 88yj fuel sending unit and adding a hot and ground to the new pump which is from the xj. Key up and read voltage/ohms at the fuel pump relay/ASD relay in the PDC. Trace the wire back to the trans. connector then to the FP relay. Gonna be terminal 87 on the relay(s)

The next question is the green wire/black stripe coming from the PDC, that should go to the starter correct? It does on a YJ. Does it have a weatherpack single connector on it ?

Next question, did 94 Cherokee have the Ballast resistor, because I have no wires for it. I have had them on every jeep I've owned, and this is bugging me. No Ballast. The ECM controls the voltage.

In no way shape or form am I new to Jeeps, just new to the 4.2 to 4.0 swap. I own both motors and have built a pretty stout XJ, I have no complaints with the 4.2 other than it hates the cold which has promted the fuel injection swap, although once the Jeep is painted, and built I will be transplanting a 327 w/ 375 Heads and a M-22 Rock Crusher Tranny with Atlas 2 and Dana 60's or Rockwells. Think twice about the M-22. Not a good idea

The only other question I have is do I need the Charcoal Canister, Because I am purging off vaccum for the front axle disconnect and only have MAP sensor and PCV that need hooked up. I have no use for any other vaccum. I don't have cruise, and my heater is manual operation. Not if do not have to pass smog.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is gonna be a tough one. One thing Jeep (Lear Corp who made the harness ) is famous for is changing wire colors. But a little time with a VOM and you should be golden.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 08:52 PM   #3
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
jsawduste thanks for the reply. what other info do you need on the yellow wire and blue wire? the blue wire is to a switched 12v source for the computer,and the yellow wire is supposed to trigger the ignition or so I thought. what exacly do you mean when you say PDC fuse, is that why I lost power at the fuse block and ignition? if so where is this fuse located. the green wire does have a single weatherpack on it, shod it go to the starter? my 1992 xj is fuel injected and is has a ballast resistor, are you sure I don't need it? Still looking for advice on if I need the charcoal canister, and also I left out earlier, which wire connecter should go to my reverse lights

thanks again jsawduste
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Unread 01-12-2010, 09:03 PM   #4
jsawduste
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2006 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans87 View Post
jsawduste thanks for the reply. what other info do you need on the yellow wire and blue wire? the blue wire is to a switched 12v source for the computer,and the yellow wire is supposed to trigger the ignition or so I thought. what exacly do you mean when you say PDC fuse, is that why I lost power at the fuse block and ignition? if so where is this fuse located. the green wire does have a single weatherpack on it, shod it go to the starter? my 1992 xj is fuel injected and is has a ballast resistor, are you sure I don't need it? Still looking for advice on if I need the charcoal canister, and also I left out earlier, which wire connecter should go to my reverse lights

thanks again jsawduste
In random order.

In the PDC there is a row of Maxi fuses. My guess is one of them may have popped. Causing the loss of power to the ignition switch/fuse block.

That green with a black stripe will go from the starter relay in the PDC to the starter.

Forget the ballast

Forget the canister. It is only an emission device. Remember to remove all the lines and hoses.

Need to separate the ignition (spark) and the ignition (starter). Let`s do that first.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 09:11 PM   #5
jsawduste
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Deleted double post
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Unread 01-12-2010, 09:30 PM   #6
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: , North Carolina
Posts: 411
what do you mean by ignition spark and starter , and where would i start
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Unread 01-12-2010, 09:46 PM   #7
YJBlues
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Cleveland Ohio
Posts: 866
ignition spark is the always on wire, and ignition starter is the wire that tells the starter to spin up and it only hot when ignition is in the start position.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:03 PM   #8
jsawduste
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2006 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Posts: 2,995
Let`s break this down into manageable sections. You need a VOM and a couple jumper leads.

The ECM pinout for the XJ and YJ are the same. Unless the donor XJ had the factory optional security system the engine wiring harness that controls the sensors and such will be the same.

The YJ`s (most 91 up) have a trans harness that has a connector (8 wire IIRC) just up from the PDC. Here you will find.
Reverse lights (purple) Trace to the REAR wiring harness connector. Tail lights etc
Speed signal (blue or wht/org) Trace to ECM/Fuse box
Power to the fuel pump Trace fuel pump relay pin 87 in the PDC to the connector.
Fuel level Trace to the gas gage connector
Ground Trace to engine harness ring connector at oil dip stick bolt.
Neutral safety switch
Black with a yellow stripe. This splices into the same colored wire that goes to the ECM

OK, so now you have figured out your fuel pump power, gage, grounds, speed signal and reverse lights.

Moving down the harness you come to the oval shaped rubber doughnut that passes into the passenger compartment by the gas pedal. At least that is what is on YJ harnesses. Not sure how an XJ does it......

The big red power wire goes up to the ignition switch that is mounted on the steering column.
The green wire goes from the igntion switch to the starter relay in the PDC
Purple goes to the reverse lights in the rear harness connector.
Black with white stripe heads to the fuse box and the rear lighting harness.
All your gage wires pass through this rubber doughnut with the exception of speedo.

Trace and verify what you have so far. Then let us know what else you need. This harness swap should be pretty much a plug and play.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:10 PM   #9
jsawduste
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Are you using the 88 dash harness and 88 gages ? Anit gonna work with a OBD 1 93 engine harness. You need the 92-95 dash harness and gage cluster OR run new aftermarket gages.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:19 PM   #10
dodger889
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Guy I have a wiring diagram for the xj wiring harness if you would like send your email addy in a pm. I will send out to you that will help a lot.
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A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:24 PM   #11
dodger889
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
Are you using the 88 dash harness and 88 gages ? Anit gonna work with a OBD 1 93 engine harness. You need the 92-95 dash harness and gage cluster OR run new aftermarket gages.
HUH? I'm not sure you are thinking right but mine did. Now I need to replace some sending units but they do work. The gauges has nothing to do with the obd1. Now there are a separate sensor for the obd1.
__________________
A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.
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Unread 01-13-2010, 03:03 AM   #12
cevans87
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1992 XJ Cherokee 
 
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no, the 94 did not have the security system. and as fas as the big red wire from the doughnut on the passenger compartment, i have no hole for it, it only has one access hole in the firewall othr than the bulkhead nad it's oval shaped right behind the valve cover.

it's 4:30 am i am leaving for work in a few minutes, tonight when i get home i will finish putting the alternator in and check all fuses.

if i get nothing from the green wire at the ignition switch, try th other wire?

start should be 12v when depressed, and run should be constant 12v
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Unread 01-13-2010, 06:39 AM   #13
jsawduste
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2006 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Posts: 2,995
Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger889 View Post
HUH? I'm not sure you are thinking right but mine did. Now I need to replace some sending units but they do work. The gauges has nothing to do with the obd1. Now there are a separate sensor for the obd1.
The ECM is going to be looking for a VSS signal as is the speedo. Same goes for the tach.

The 88 has a cable driven speedo the OBD 1 system is electric. The 88 gets it`s tach signal from the coil ground. The OBD 1 gets it`s tach signal from the ECM.

I am not convinced the printed circuit tape that controls the dash lights/gages is the same.
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Unread 01-13-2010, 07:35 AM   #14
dodger889
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Now If you use a 91 speedo connection you will get both vss and a cable output. Has far has the tach goes you run a wire to the coil and it works. Now there is a work around for a lot of things to get thing to work. But let's get back to the problem of getting it to running. Then we can address the problem of it not going down the road right.

OR in another words let's not get the cart in front of the horse.
__________________
A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
im just cheap, and cheap makes you creative.
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Unread 01-13-2010, 10:03 AM   #15
jsawduste
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2006 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodger889 View Post
Now If you use a 91 speedo connection you will get both vss and a cable output. Has far has the tach goes you run a wire to the coil and it works. Now there is a work around for a lot of things to get thing to work. But let's get back to the problem of getting it to running. Then we can address the problem of it not going down the road right.

OR in another words let's not get the cart in front of the horse.
That is why I wanted to have the OP go one step at a time. There WILL be issues as each system/sub-subsytem is addressed.
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