Doing 4.0 Swap Now..... Need Help Now !!!
I bought an 88 Wrangler.
It had already had a 4.0, but the dumba** put the carb and intake back on, so I decided to take the motor back to fuel injection.
The motor is 93, don't know what the donor was.
The tranny is a Peug BA-10 with cutouts for the CPS.
The Harness, PCM and PDC are out of a 94 XJ.
The intake, and power steering pump are 2001.
What I have done so far :
I have mounted the PCM, PDC and installed the wire harness. I have put the intake, down pipe, cps, map sensor and basically everything else on.
I have taken the yellow wire from the xj harness to the green wire coming off ignition. I have taken the blue wire from the xj harness and put it to a switched 12v source.
My first problem, was that i had no lights. I have not tested my theory but think I have figured that problem out. My old right side bulkhead connector was lights, so I re-wired that bulkhead connector in, that should solve the light problem right ?
The next problem, is I have a green wire, and a white/red stripe wire coming off ignition switch, and have tried both only to not have anything at the starter. After a few minutes of testing wires, I lost the ignition switch and all power to the fuse block.
Tonight I replaced the ignition switch, and bought a new headlamp switch.
Tomorrow, I have to fab out a mount for the fuel pump. I need to know what wire is my hot for the fuel pump so I can run the wires. I am keeping my 88yj fuel sending unit and adding a hot and ground to the new pump which is from the xj.
The next question is the green wire/black stripe coming from the PDC, that should go to the starter correct?
Next question, did 94 Cherokee have the Ballast resistor, because I have no wires for it. I have had them on every jeep I've owned, and this is bugging me.
In no way shape or form am I new to Jeeps, just new to the 4.2 to 4.0 swap. I own both motors and have built a pretty stout XJ, I have no complaints with the 4.2 other than it hates the cold which has promted the fuel injection swap, although once the Jeep is painted, and built I will be transplanting a 327 w/ 375 Heads and a M-22 Rock Crusher Tranny with Atlas 2 and Dana 60's or Rockwells.
The only other question I have is do I need the Charcoal Canister, Because I am purging off vaccum for the front axle disconnect and only have MAP sensor and PCV that need hooked up. I have no use for any other vaccum. I don't have cruise, and my heater is manual operation.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
THE FOLLOWING IS AND EDITED POST ABOUT THIS SWAP...
I BOUGHT A 1988 YJ. IT HAD A 4.0L AND PEUG BA-10 THAT THE PO HAD PUT A MOTORCRAFT 2100 CARB AND INTAKE ON, NOT HAVING TO CHANGE OUT ANY WIRING.
IT'S WINTER IN SOUTH CAROLINA, AND THE CARB WAS NOT DOING IT IN THE MORNINGS, BARELY WANTED TO RUN.
I WENT TO THE JUNKYARD AND FOR $159 GOT THE HARNESS, ECM, INTAKE, DOWNPIE WITH O2 SENSOR, CPS, AND SENSORS FOR THIS SWAP OFF A 1994 AND 1995 XJ.
I JUMPED RIGHT IN AFTER READING SEVERAL THREADS ABOUT THE SWAP.
ATTENTION ::: YOU WILL ONLY USE ONE SIDE OF THE XJ BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, KEEP THE OLD YJ RIGHT SIDE BULKHED CONNECTOR AS IT WILL CONTROL YOUR HEADLIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS
AFTER PAINTING AND PUTTING THE HARNESS, ECM, INTAKE, SENSORS AND EVERYTHING ELSE ON, I STARTED TO RUN INTO THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS.
1. WIRING HARNESS
THE OBD1 HARNESS WILL NOT PLUG AND PLAY TO THE YJ HARNESS AT THE BULKHEAD. ALSO YOU WILL ONLY USE THE LEFT SIDE OF THE XJ HARNESS, AS THE OLD RIGHT SIDE WILL CONTROL YOUR HEADLIGHTS AND TURN SIGNALS. YOU WILL HAVE TO DO THE FOLOWING AT THE MINIMUM TO GET IT TO START, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVED YOUR FUSE BLOCK TO SEE THE BACK SIDE OF THE YJ HARNESS TO TRACE WIRES... THERE ARE TWO SCREWS, ONE ON TOP, ONE ON BOTTOM OPPOSITE SIDES... THEN YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE CLIPS HOLDING THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE BULKHD CONNECTOR.
YELLOW WIRE FROM XJ HARNESS TRIGGERS YOUR STARTER, IT WILL NEED TO GO TO YOUR GREEN WIRE AT THE YJ HARNESS, THIS GREEN WIRE IS FOUND AT THE IGNITION SWITCH ALSO, YOU CAN SIMPLY REMOVE THE XJ SIDE BULKHEAD AND DISASEMBLE IT BY TAKING THE TWO PLASTIC COVERS OFF RIGHT AT THE CONNECTOR, AND THEN REMOVING THE WHITE CLIPS ON THE SIDE, AFTER DOING THIS YOU CAN REMOVE THE YELLOW WIRE AND PLACE IT IN THE CORRESPONDING HOLE THAT YOUR YJ HAS THE GREEN WIRE.
THE XJ BIG BLUE WIRE WILL NEED TO TIE IN TO YOUR YELLOW WIRE FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH, YOU CAN DO THIS AT THE IGNITION SWITCH, OR TRACE IT BACK TO THE YJ BULKHEAD CONNECTOR, YOU CAN ALSO PUT IT TO A SWITCHED 12V SOURCE. THIS WIRE CUTS THE ECM ON AND TRIGGERS SEVERAL RELAYS IN THE PDC.
YOU WILL NEED TO GET A EXTERNAL FUEL PUMP CAPABLE OF 39.5PSI FOR OBD1 OR 43PSI FOR OBD2, OR FIND A 91' OR NEWER YJ WITH THE TANK AND PUMP TOGETHER. IF YOU GET A NEW TANK WITH THE PUMP ALREADY IN, YOU CAN PLUG INTO THE FACTORY HARNESS WITHOUT SPLICING ANYTHING
TO GIVE THE FUEL PUMP POWER, YOU WILL HAVE A GREEN/WHITE STRIPE WIRE AT THE XJ HARNESS ONCE YOU HAVE LOCATED THIS, MOVE ON TO NEXT STEP
LOOK UNDER THE DASH AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT KICK PANEL THERE WILL BE A CONNECTOR WITH THREE WIRES, ONE OF THESE IS ORANGE... NOW GO BACK TO YOUR FUEL TANK, LOOK AT THE CONNECTION THERE YOU WILL SEE 3 WIRES GOING IN FROM THE MAIN HARNESS AND ONLY 2 GOING TO THE TANK...
YOU NEED TO TRACE THE ORANGE WIRE TO THE YJ BULHEAD CONNECTOR AND TIE THE GREEN ONE IN BY MOVING THE GREEN WIRE TO MATE THE ORANGE, OR SPLICING THEM TOGETHER.
HEATER BLOWER - -
YOU NEED TO FIND THE ORANGE/BLACK STRIPE AT THE YJ HARNESS AND TRACE IT TO A WIRE ON THE XJ HARNESS, CUT IT ON THE XJ SIDE, NOW GO GET A LENGTH OF WIRE THAT WILL REACH ACROSS THE FIRE WALL, TIE INTO THE WIRE AND THEN RUN IT OVER TO YOUR BLOWER, THERE IS A SINGLE CONNECTION ON THE BLOWER UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY BOX, YOU NEED TO HOOK THE OTHER END OF THAT WIRE TO THIS CONNECTION, AND YOU WILL HAVE HEAT AGAIN.
GUAGES - -
YOU WILL NEED TO TIE IN MOST OF YOUR GUAGES AS THE XJ HARNESS DOES NOT SUPPORT THEM, YOU CAN DO THIS BY REMOVING YOUR GUAGE CLUSTER AND SPLICING NEW WIRES TO THOSE SENSORS.
IE. RUNNING NEW WIRES FROM THE CLUSTER TO EACH INDIVIDUAL SENSOR, TEMP, VOLTS, FUEL, AND OIL.
TACH - GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT THE IGNITION COIL
FUEL LEVEL - TAN/BLACK STRIPE OFF THE THREE WIRE CONNECTOR AT THE KICK PANEL
OIL PRESURE - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE SENDER
VOLTS - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE BATTERY OR FUSE BOX
WATER TEMP - RUN A NEW WIRE TO THE SENDER... BACK DRIVERSIDE, TOP OF THE HEAD
YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO DO ANYTHING FOR YOUR HEADLIGHTS, TAIL LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, AND PARK LIGHTS IF YOU USED THE OLD BULKHEAD CONNECTOR LIKE I EXPLAINED...
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - -
MY PEUG BA-10 TRANNY HAD THE CUTOUT AND BOLT HOLES FOR A CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR THIS IS NOT THE CASE IN MOST PUEG BA-10 TRANNYS, IF YOU HAVE THIS TRANNY I WOULD SUGGEST SWAPPING FOR AN EXTERNAL SLAVED AX-15, AS IT IS EASIER TO WORK ON AND REPLACE THE SLAVE IF IT GOES OUT, AND IS A MUCH STONGER TRANNY OVERALL. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE RESOURCES AND $ FOR A TRANNY SWAP, HESCO MAKESA CPS RELOCATION KIT THAT MOUNT ON THE FRONT OF TH OIL PAN AND COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED IT'S ABOUT $240
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR
IF YOUR JEEP ORIGINALY CAME WITH A 4.2L. YOU HAVE A MECHANICAL SPEEDOMETER. YOU WILL NEED TO GO TO AUTOZONE AND GET THE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR FOR A 1990 JEEP WRANGLER. THIS VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR IS HELD IN THE TRANSFERCASE WITH ONE BOLT. ONCE YOU GET THE 1990 VSS FROM AUTOZONE YOU WILL BE ABLE TO RUN YOU CONNECTOR FOR ECM AND YOUR MECHANICAL CABLE FOR YOUR SPEEDOMETER. YOU CAN DRIVE WITHOUT THE CABLE FOR THE ECM HOOKED UP, BUT YOU RUN A STRONG CHANCE OF THE VEHICLE DIEING WHEN BRAKED HARD.
IF YOU ARE USING THE HARNESS AND ECM OUT OF AN AUTOMATIC AND YOU HAVE A MANUAL TRANNY LISTEN UP!!!!
THERE ARE TWO CONNECTORS RIGHT BEHIND THE VALVE COVER TOWARDS THE PASSENGER SIDE, ONE IS BLACK ONE IS WHITE...
ON THE BLACK ONE YOU WILL SEE LITTLE LETTERS ON THE OUTSIDE... A, B, C AND SO ON... YOU WILL NEED TO GET A FEMALE BUTT CONNECTOR AND PUT IT ON THE B AND C PINS... THIS WILL GROUND OUT THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH AND MAKE THE ECM THINK IT'S IN PARK, WITHOUT THIS YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO START YOUR JEEP ONCE YOUR DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IF YOU DO THIS YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO.
MY OTHER PROBLEMS CONSISTED OF THE FOLLOWING.
I GOT AN INTAKE OFF A NEW STYLE JEEP, IT HAS BETTER FLOW RATE THE PREVIOUS YEARS, THE REASON THIS WAS A PROBLEM WAS I NEEDED A DIFFERENT POWER STEERING PUMP, AND POWER STEERING PUMP MOUNT, AFTER THIS WAS ALL ON, I NEEDED A DIFFERENT BELT... ONCE I HAD THE CORRECT BELT BECAUSE I WAS USING AN OLDER 4.0 ENGINE, THE BELT WOULD BE RUBBING RIGHT AGAINST THE TIMING MARKS, WHAT I DID WAS MAKE SURE I HAD THE POWER STEERING PUMP, ALTERNATOR, WATER PUMP, AND CRANKSHAFT GOING IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION AND THEN PUT MY BELT ON, YOU WILL FIND NO DIAGRAM FOR THIS IF YOU DECIDE TO USE AN OLDER 4.0 WITH A NEWER INTAKE... YOU HAVE AN EXTRA IDLER PULLY AND BECAUSE OF THE TIMING MARKS, WILL NEED TO MAKE YOUR OWN BELT DIAGRAM.
IF YOU WANT TO ADD A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT... TRACE THE BLACK/PINK STRIPE FROM THE ECM... THIS IS A GROUND... YOUR LIGHT NEEDS TO HAVE A SWITCHED 12V SOURCE AND USE THE BLACK/PINKSTRIPE WIRE AS YOUR GROUND... WORKS LIKE A CHARM, TO CHECK CODES... TURN YOUR KEY ON,OFF,ON,OFF,ON AND WATCH YOUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT A WILL GIVE YOU LONG BLINKS AT FIRST AND THEN SHORT BLINKS
EXAMPLE 2 LONGS AND 4 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 24
1 LONG AND 6 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 16
6 SHORTS EQUALS CODE 6
I WILL POST PICTURES OF EACH INDIVIDUAL COMPONENT AND LOCATION LATER
Last edited by cevans87; 02-02-2010 at 06:11 AM.