DIY XJ front driveshaft shortening for use as rear CV driveshaft on YJ - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 12-11-2009, 02:26 PM   #16
Louie4
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Cool write-up Joe. Did you or your buddy have it balanced or was it more for a trail rig? Or did it have vibrations at all?

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Unread 12-11-2009, 04:37 PM   #17
Joe Dillard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Cool write-up Joe. Did you or your buddy have it balanced or was it more for a trail rig? Or did it have vibrations at all?
Thanks - I left out some items that might come in handy for others. Since I'm ~1,300 miles away from home right now, I'll add them later.

I do expect to make another either later this month or early next month for another friend.

Nate had very minor vibes, so he went ahead & had a shop balance it for him. It's Nates DD and the Jeep is now on the east coast since he transfered.
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Unread 12-11-2009, 07:24 PM   #18
YJames90
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My friend did mine without balancing it and I get zero vibes
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Unread 12-12-2009, 09:00 AM   #19
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Joe,
QUOTE: "With these tid-bits of information in my hip pocket, I took the XJ shaft & placed it in my chop saw so that I could make two cuts, and removed a section long enough so that when the driveshaft was butted back together, and the spline contact was near the 2/3rds mark, the drive shaft would be 16.25” in length."

Is 2/3rds usually where you set the static point or was that where you thought it best for this particular application? Seen a lot of folks saying 1/2 way mark at static.

Thanks
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Unread 12-12-2009, 09:09 AM   #20
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Any pics of it mounted?
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Unread 12-13-2009, 05:30 PM   #21
Joe Dillard
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Originally Posted by bpr View Post
Joe,
QUOTE: "With these tid-bits of information in my hip pocket, I took the XJ shaft & placed it in my chop saw so that I could make two cuts, and removed a section long enough so that when the driveshaft was butted back together, and the spline contact was near the 2/3rds mark, the drive shaft would be 16.25” in length."

Is 2/3rds usually where you set the static point or was that where you thought it best for this particular application? Seen a lot of folks saying 1/2 way mark at static.

Thanks
For Nate's current & future set-up, I thought he'd be in good shape with ~1.5" compression & ~2.5" extension available as far as spline contact.

Last I knew, Nate was going to add a moderate boom shackle lift in the mix, so having slightly less than 1/2 slip statically was going to work well.

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Any pics of it mounted?
Sorry, I didn't take any of his. However, for the next one I do, I'll be sure to take pics of it & post 'em.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 07:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
Thanks - I left out some items that might come in handy for others. Since I'm ~1,300 miles away from home right now, I'll add them later.

I do expect to make another either later this month or early next month for another friend.

Nate had very minor vibes, so he went ahead & had a shop balance it for him. It's Nates DD and the Jeep is now on the east coast since he transfered.
Cool. I figure if you line it up right it should only have minimal vibrations if at all.

I've been wondering though, I have a front GC driveshaft with 1.75" O.D. tube and I would need to re-tube it if I wanted to lengthen it. Do you think I could use the same principles? I'm pretty sure I'll have to get it balanced because of the length. I'll have to check on steel prices to see if its feasible. I'm running my stock one right now and I had it balanced but it still has vibes and a decent amount of play in the slip joint.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 08:02 PM   #23
Joe Dillard
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Yea, you could add some length by cutting the tube, leave a gap as long as you needed, then use the sleeve method & be fine.

Here's another I welded together & didn't sleeve this one. I butt welded it.

I know it's not the prefered way - but if you think out of the box & need to repair a drive shaft on the trail or use as a spare, this way can work well.

This same drive shaft below survived a year in Johnson Valley/Hammers with zero issues & is still my spare.



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Unread 12-13-2009, 08:06 PM   #24
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Joe how long was the process from beginning to end? Did you have to make a jig to hold the pieces true before you welded or was the fitment tight enough? I thought about doing doing mine when I got it but didn't quite know how but for $15.00 for the shaft and then $50 to cut and balance locally it wasnt that bad. This write up might change my mind to start doing them as well. The availabilty and price at u pull its is awesome and saving people roughly 300 bucks is cool too. I do like the sleeving technique also, looks much more rugged. Thanks for the write up.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 08:26 PM   #25
Joe Dillard
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Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
Joe how long was the process from beginning to end? Did you have to make a jig to hold the pieces true before you welded or was the fitment tight enough? I thought about doing doing mine when I got it but didn't quite know how but for $15.00 for the shaft and then $50 to cut and balance locally it wasnt that bad. This write up might change my mind to start doing them as well. The availabilty and price at u pull its is awesome and saving people roughly 300 bucks is cool too. I do like the sleeving technique also, looks much more rugged. Thanks for the write up.
You're welcome.

I just checked the time stamps on the pics I took. From the time Nate got to my house, to the time we painted it was ~3 hours. One thing to keep in-mind is, I'm an old fart & I try not to be in a hurry with things like this. Especially since I was trying to educate Nate during the whole process. We took our time but didn't really waste much either.

This included us going out & buying the chromo, screwing around trying to cut 4130 chromo in my chopsaw cutting the original tube down, double checking measurements, firing up my compressor & plasma, cutting everything, doing the grinding, installing 1 new ujoint, preheating areas to weld, welding everything, allowing the preheat to cool, masking it, spraying it with primer, then final paint.

Plus - I'm pretty sure I had a beer or two during that process.

I used some angle iron I had laying around to make things true. Plus I ensured that when things were put back together, that they were put back together in-phase.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 09:15 PM   #26
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I was wondering.... Since the shaft was HREW tubing origionally could you use tubing on the inside instead of sleeving it on the outside? The smaller diameter the shaft is the easier it should be to balance because of less centripital force as well? Just an idea...
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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:03 PM   #27
Joe Dillard
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The problem with adding a sleeve to the inside is.....what method are you going to use to weld the outermost or end portion of the sleeve material when it's inside the outer tube & hard to get to? Yea, you could drill holes & plug weld - but I prefer to weld the entire outer surface area so as to have a much stronger shaft.

Sure, you could simply weld near the center sections of the added sleeve it there was a gap & not weld the ends of the sleeve material since you're going to have a hard time getting to them. Not that it's impossible, or can't be done, but it's not a method I'd perfer to use. Others may disagree.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:16 PM   #28
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This is an extremely great write up! I would highly consider this but only if i could be confident that it would definitely mean i wouldnt need to balance. Because for them to cut and balance its like $100 or so...so if i did this proceedure and needed to get it balanced it the end, i would just be spending more time and money lol But that sick as hell +1
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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:55 PM   #29
Joe Dillard
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There is no guarantee that the shaft won't need to be balanced.

Even the factory, with all their spiffy welding devices & techniques, balances the front drive shafts on Jeeps that they know that the front drive shaft will spin all the time (which in stock form, the YJ drive shaft does not spin & that's one big reason why they don't balance it).

If a YJ's front drive shaft spun/rotated from the factory while in 2wd - the factory would balance them. But since they don't, the factory does not - unlike other Jeep models.
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Unread 12-14-2009, 12:15 PM   #30
cwbymt1973
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ok so i am on the same page the driveshaft you are making is for the slip yoke eliminator kit
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