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Unread 08-09-2011, 12:30 PM   #31
jhumphrey
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piperoo
Jhumphrey and sacrifice, can you both share where you got your paint, how much paint it took, and what kind of paint please? I was going to repaint my jeep on OD green but if I can get some crazy yellow color and make it look "OK" then I would do that. How much would I need in gallons to paint the whole exterior of the jeep...without the top.
http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_electricblue.html is where I bought my paint. You will only need one gallon to do your jeep, for the most part. Depends on your current color, if you're going to prime or not, and what color you're going to.

My 89 is an islander edition and was a smurf blue color from the factory. I like the color blue, so stuck with that. The paint from that company looks good and Finishes well. The blue is metallic and has a nice "flop" to it.

I have heard in order to do a proper yellow, you have to paint the parts white first, then apply the yellow. That means an increase in time and prep.

Reds and oranges are also your most expensive paint choices. Browse the paint for cars website, they have a nice selection of color/kits available. I chose acrylic because it was cheaper for me to replace, if I need to in the future.

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Unread 08-09-2011, 01:19 PM   #32
sacrifice
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I got mine from a local surplus company. Its called Majic Tractor/Implement paint. I think it was about $40 for a gallon and $10 for the hardener. I did 2 nice coats and only used half a gallon. I did spray bomb the primer on because it was cheaper and easier. Used about 6 cans for 2 coats after many hours of sanding my red down. Here is mine all primed. I let it dry a week before painting to be sure it cured fully.





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Unread 08-09-2011, 02:46 PM   #33
piperoo
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Great information guys! And seeing the prep pics helps me figure out the stuff I am forgetting.
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Unread 08-09-2011, 03:00 PM   #34
iowajeepers
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I am in the process of spray bombing my YJ since I cut holes for hood vents recently.

Steps I used...

1. Power steel brush current finish (and clean up rust)
2. Clean
3. Body filler where necessary
4. Sand
5. Clean
6. Self etching primer
7. Clean (I'm painting outdoors)
8. Spray Bomb

Here's how the front is looking. I am using Krylon's Ultra-Flat Camo Fusion.

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Unread 08-09-2011, 05:16 PM   #35
superj
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what is spray bombing?
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Unread 08-09-2011, 05:31 PM   #36
Unlimitedlou
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If you are going to paint it, prep is the key like everyone has said. I painted my last YJ with a pretty cheap HVHP gravity fed gun and it turned out great. I have painted several things since, with alot better HVLP guns and it makes a difference. Use quality products and read up on it. I bought a couple of DVD's and talked to some local painters. The key to a good paint job is the final buff and wet sand. Good luck! Here is my last YJ.
yj2.jpg  
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Unread 08-09-2011, 05:32 PM   #37
Unlimitedlou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superj View Post
what is spray bombing?
Using a spray can instead of a spray gun.
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Unread 08-09-2011, 05:33 PM   #38
superj
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ohhhhh, ok.

man, those orange paint jobs on the jeeps looks better and better. really turns heads
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Unread 08-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #39
piperoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimitedlou
If you are going to paint it, prep is the key like everyone has said. I painted my last YJ with a pretty cheap HVHP gravity fed gun and it turned out great. I have painted several things since, with alot better HVLP guns and it makes a difference. Use quality products and read up on it. I bought a couple of DVD's and talked to some local painters. The key to a good paint job is the final buff and wet sand. Good luck! Here is my last YJ.
Awesome looking job!!
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Unread 08-09-2011, 08:29 PM   #40
ZeroGravity
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Roll on paint job

I mixed Gloss Hunter Green and Rusty Red Primer Rustoleum (2:1 respectively) to get a nice olive drab color and experimented using soft cotton and foam rollers. The foam roller lays down a much smoother and predictable layer and is good for thin and thick paint. I don't recommend the cotton roller. It does not leave an even coat of paint.

I thinned my paint considerably, to where it was about as thick as water and rolled about eight coats on most areas. With the paint that thin, it likes to dry very quickly which allows you to lay many coats down in a short amount of time which gives you the most even coverage.

For a satin finish I rolled on several very thin coats until the color was strong and then added two more layers of paint cut with about 25-50% less thinner than the original coats. While the final coats were drying I would continue to run the roller over the paint until it began to tack, which removed the roller lines and gave the normally semi-gloss paint a non-reflective but not chalky finish.

It's similar to an "eggshell finish" wall paint. It's smooth enough to wash easily, it doesn't hold onto dirt and it is completely non reflective.

It hasn't faded in two years and is pretty strong when it comes to branches and everything. There is a lot of criticism by professional painters, but a one stage enamel like Rustoleum does a great job. Us Jeep guys see it as an economical way to get a damn good paint job that's easy to touch up in our driveways on a Saturday afternoon.
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Unread 08-10-2011, 06:30 AM   #41
sacrifice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGravity View Post
Roll on paint job

I mixed Gloss Hunter Green and Rusty Red Primer Rustoleum (2:1 respectively) to get a nice olive drab color and experimented using soft cotton and foam rollers. The foam roller lays down a much smoother and predictable layer and is good for thin and thick paint. I don't recommend the cotton roller. It does not leave an even coat of paint.
Forgot to mention this. High density foam roller is VERY important. I think I used a 4" roller and foam brush for small areas
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Unread 08-10-2011, 07:30 AM   #42
GRYDE001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iowajeepers View Post
I am in the process of spray bombing my YJ since I cut holes for hood vents recently.


Here's how the front is looking. I am using Krylon's Ultra-Flat Camo Fusion.

I started to use that same Krylon ultra flat color, but after the first spray it felt so chalky that I hesitated to do the whole jeep that way. I switched to the Rustoleum roll on mothod. I do like your vents, you got them from a salvage yard I'm guessing? Which vehicle? I've been thinnking about something like that but I hate the thought of cutting into my hood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroGravity View Post
Roll on paint job

I mixed Gloss Hunter Green and Rusty Red Primer Rustoleum (2:1 respectively) to get a nice olive drab color and experimented using soft cotton and foam rollers. The foam roller lays down a much smoother and predictable layer and is good for thin and thick paint. I don't recommend the cotton roller. It does not leave an even coat of paint.

.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacrifice View Post
Forgot to mention this. High density foam roller is VERY important. I think I used a 4" roller and foam brush for small areas
I love the roll-on method, I'm in the middle of doing mine at this point, I used a mix of the almond and brown color for more of a tan color. I love the results with the Rolled on rusto. I saw a vid on youtube and the guy said to use a hair dryer on the lowest speed and no heat setting to pop the bubbles as you go. I hold the dryer in one hand and the roller in the other and go to town. Works great. I'll post some pics when completed.
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Unread 08-10-2011, 09:23 AM   #43
pasinbuy
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All of the rigs look good. I am far from a professional painter, but one thing that I learned the hard way is. After all the hard work prepping the rig. It is stupid to use a cheap paint. Then have to do the whole job again in a couple of years. I would rather fix a nice looking scratch than have to repaint because the paint is peeling or fading. Or rusting under the cheap paint. Spend a extra hundred and buy paint from a Auto Paint store.

Regrets suck. Try to stay with a auto urethane paint for longevity of the paint job.
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Unread 08-10-2011, 03:10 PM   #44
jhumphrey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasinbuy
All of the rigs look good. I am far from a professional painter, but one thing that I learned the hard way is. After all the hard work prepping the rig. It is stupid to use a cheap paint. Then have to do the whole job again in a couple of years. I would rather fix a nice looking scratch than have to repaint because the paint is peeling or fading. Or rusting under the cheap paint. Spend a extra hundred and buy paint from a Auto Paint store.

Regrets suck. Try to stay with a auto urethane paint for longevity of the paint job.
Agreed. I bought my paint online, but researched it first to make sure I was getting good quality. The stuff I used was comparable with PPG. I'll be upset if it doesn't last long, BUT if I have to redo it, I'm raptoring the whole thing
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Unread 08-10-2011, 05:13 PM   #45
klrstew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRYDE001 View Post

I love the roll-on method, I'm in the middle of doing mine at this point, I used a mix of the almond and brown color for more of a tan color. I love the results with the Rolled on rusto. I saw a vid on youtube and the guy said to use a hair dryer on the lowest speed and no heat setting to pop the bubbles as you go. I hold the dryer in one hand and the roller in the other and go to town. Works great. I'll post some pics when completed.

this is SICK! coming from a roller!

Is this the one? I was considering this method myself.
sure like to see what someone does with this. I'm too
chicken ***** to do it yet.
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