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Unread 01-29-2011, 06:42 AM   #1
linusb
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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distributor removal/replace

Could someone give me a discription on how to remove the distributor from a 1994 4.0 YJ and put it back in?

I don't understand what process must be followed to make sure the timing does not get messed up.

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Unread 01-29-2011, 07:24 AM   #2
87wrangler1
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The best detailed description you will get is to get a haynes or chilton's manual from your local parts store it will be well worth it. or better yet a little more expensive but there is also a factory service manual available but it could help a neanderthal rebuild the jeep if he knew how to read. Check youtube too that will give you some good visuals.
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Unread 01-29-2011, 07:50 AM   #3
Larry93
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In the rush job, you can...

Mark the rotor position before being pulled and note the position it is in when it disengages the teeth (as you pull it out). Take the new one and get the housing ear lined up and rotor line up to its disengaged point. Drop it in and the rotor has to be in the exact spot as the "marked position".

Note, when you pull the dist do not crank the engine, roll the jeep in gear etc.. or you will be doing a lot more than above.
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Unread 01-29-2011, 08:00 AM   #4
50rck
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just mark it. if you mess it up when you put it back in, just "bump" your motor back to TDC, then drop it in based on the instructions from the Haynes. It should look like the rotor is just past the #1 mark on the dist. If you are a tooth off either way, it probably won't start.

And remember, there is technically 2 TDC locations. One is the intake, which is what you want, and the other is the exhaust, which you will definitely know you hit because it will back fire through the air box. I learned a good lesson the 2 times I removed mine: when you "bump" that motor to find TDC, pull the full pump relay. It will keep you from flooding flooding the plugs. Just remember to put it back in when you think you are ready to start it.
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Unread 01-29-2011, 08:07 AM   #5
4.7stroker
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Changing a dizzy is quite easy.

1, align mark on harmonic balancer with 0* on timing cover, make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire. If the rotor is pointing at the #6 plug wire turn crank 1 more revolution.

2, note where rotor is pointing and mark body of dizzy with black marker. remove hold down bolt and wiggle while lifting, note that rotor spins as you lift, make a mental note of where the rotor ends up when fully removed.

3, on new dizzy install rotor and put rotor in same place as it was when you removed old dizzy.
push dizzy down while wiggling dizzy body so dizzy gear engages cam gear, oil pump drive should also engage. when dizzy is fully seated rotor should point in the same direction as original. rotate dizzy body so rotor points to same place as you marked on old dizzy in step 2.

4 reinstall cap and engine should start pretty easy, warm up and set timing to 8*btdc

Pretty much it, do not remove plug wires from cap, take your time and don't be scared.

Dwayne
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Unread 01-29-2011, 08:22 AM   #6
laybackman
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Pull the cap. Note the position of the rotor. If it is not easy to see 'bump' the engine until it is facing you. Mark the position of your rotor on the lip of the distributer where the cap seats itself when it is on. Next remove the hold down bolt and tab. Mark the distributer shaft where it enters into the engine and the engine block also. I usually scribe it. Now SLOWLY slide the distributer out of the engine holding the distributer body/shaft allowing the rotor to move backwards. AT the exact moment the drive gear is disengaged from the cam shaft drive gear the rotor will stop moving. Mark that second position on the distributer also with a second line. Now do what you have to do.

Re-assembly - Position the distributer shaft back into the engine aligning the mark on the shaft with the mark on the engine block where the shaft enters the engine. Next lift the distributer just high enough so you can spin the rotor. Keeping the lower marks aligned place the rotor at the second line you made on the distributer lip where the cap seats and allow the distributer to drop into place. The rotor will move forward as you do so. Now that the distributer is seated the mark on the lower shaft and engine block must still be aligned AND the rotor must be aligned with that FIRST mark you made on the distributer lip. Drop on the rotor and cap and you should be good to go. AT NO TIME while you are doing this should you turn the engine internals by any means. Or you will be back asking how to fix that issue!
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Unread 09-08-2012, 07:13 AM   #7
Petef
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installing new distributer

Hey guys, when I went to replace the distributer cap on my 1993 4.0 six the bolt snapped off in the distributer housing so I need to replace. Unfortunately, i am not a mechanic and did not realize the importance of marking everything before i pulled the dist from the block. Now that I have it out and am ready to install new one, how do i get it back to the correct position. At this point I have turned the enging to TDC on number one so the timing mark points to zero. Any help would be much appreciated.
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Unread 09-08-2012, 09:54 AM   #8
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petef View Post
Hey guys, when I went to replace the distributer cap on my 1993 4.0 six the bolt snapped off in the distributer housing so I need to replace. Unfortunately, i am not a mechanic and did not realize the importance of marking everything before i pulled the dist from the block. Now that I have it out and am ready to install new one, how do i get it back to the correct position. At this point I have turned the enging to TDC on number one so the timing mark points to zero. Any help would be much appreciated.
This is the best way to determine mechanical TDC because the harmonic balancer is two piece and can 'slip'.

In your case I would turn your engine counterclockwise one complete revolution then do this:

Pull #1 spark plug. Insert finger in #1 spark plug hole. Turn engine with socket and breaker bar until you feel a whoosh of air pushing past that finger in #1 cylinder. Remove finger and drop a long bladed screwdriver or wooden dowel into #1 cylinder. Slowly bring #1 piston up to TDC. That is where #1 piston is at its highest point. You are now at TDC mechanically on the compression stroke of #1 piston.

Now check your timing marks. It should be at TDC also. If it is not then the harmonic balancer has 'slipped' because of the two piece design and should be replaced IF you intend to use it to check your engine timing. It is not an absolute since your engine timing is mamnaged by the brain and we are now confidant that your are at TDC mechanically.

Now determine where #1 plug tower is on your dist. cap while it is on the dist. Keep in mind the orientation of the dist. is governed by how it bolts into the engine, and mark the base of the dizzy. Pull the dist. and rotate the rotor to that mark. Holding the dist. shaft so it does not move flip the dist. and note the position of the slot for the oil pump drive shaft. Rotate the oil pump shaft to just before that position. Approximately 9:30- 10:00 o'clock or so IIRC.

Now before you stab the dist. into the engine you need to back off the rotor position a little. Where you start is not where the rotor orientation will end up because of the helical cut gears. The dist. shaft will have to adance some because of that gear design to end up in the right position. If you leave the rotor on the dist. you will see that advancing movement.

Good Luck
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Unread 09-08-2012, 10:14 AM   #9
Mechman71
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^ Almost, but not quite. You have to pull the valve cover to make sure both valves remain closed while the piston is coming up to TDC, that's the compression stroke. Good exhaust back pressure and/or beat lifters can cause enough compression on the exhaust stroke to pop your finger out. Couple that with worn rings and valves, and there might not feel like much difference between compression and exhaust strokes. You have a 50-50 chance of getting it right and a misfire isn't going to kill your engine - bring it to TDC and drop in the dizzy so the rotor points to number one. If it starts, you win! If it goes bang, pull the dizzy, spin the rotor 180 from where it is and drop it back in.

The TJ's 2.5 had an indexing hole in the advance plate that you're supposed to use to lock the rotor in place before you drop it in. You then aim the rotor where they say (if I remember right, you point it at the #1 plug), the whole dizzy rotates as it drops in, you tighten the clamp, pull the locking pin and go.
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