[gunnorthered]

So I'm fairly new to the forum. Done a lot of lurking and info gathering for ideas on my Jeep build. I've decided to put up a build thread of my own since I have enjoyed reading other threads and know that everyone else seems to feel the same.

In July 2007 I was in an accident in which I lost my first vehicle. Which as you might guess was a YJ. It was a completely stock 1995 YJ 2.5L and my father bought it brand new. Might seem a pit sad, but you could say it was the love of my life.... Well I moved on to bigger and better things, there's always that silver lining. In October of 2007 I found a replacement in AZ. A green 1994 YJ, with a 4" lift, 33" BFG MT's, TJ seats, SYE, and 4:10 gears. Couldn't have been happier. I then flew out to pick it up and drive it home. Only to find out that it sounded like a ticking time bomb. I wasn't worried though, threw in some fuel system cleaner a few time's on my ride home and it was pretty much gone.

I get home and start to do the little things. I did a Fire Power ignition upgrade, and then went on to change the oil. Here comes the sheer stupidity. I saw some engine cleaner and thought "What a GREAT idea!". Cycled it through the oil just like the bottle said and voila, it ran great. That lasted a week..... I go to drive home from some shopping and as soon as I turn the engine over, I though i mistaken climbed into a paint shaker. So after months of trying different things, I find out it's the valves. Apparently engine cleaner cleaned out the crap that held the motor together.

The Jeep had been sitting under a cover since the end of Oct 2007 and just a few months ago I came into a position to fix it. But fix it I did not. I ripped the whole thing apart down to the last nut and bolt. So here I am with the with a thread to tell you what I have done and will keep updating as I continue. I will start as if from the beginning so I don't leave anything out.
I will be reviewing all the products that I have used to hopefully help you guys out and vice verse.

Seems everyone posts a list of planned mods, so here's mine:

Axles:
Rear Corporate 14 Bolt - Planning Stages
Front Dana 60 - Planning Stages
ARB Lockers
16" Rims - Not sure what kind
42" Tires Minimum - Planning Stages

Suspension:
M.O.R.E. 5-1/4" Boomerang Shackles - Done
M.O.R.E. Shackle Reversal (It's my DD and offroader) - Done
M.O.R.E. "Long Travel" Front Shock Hoops - On but need a weld
M.O.R.E. "Long Travel" Rear Shock Mounts - Done
M.O.R.E. SlickRock Spring Shackle Hangers (needed for the rear needed to level with the SRS)
Bilstein 5150 long travel shocks - Have to figure droop and compression

Chassis:
Machine made Body Sleeves - Done
Daystar Body Lift 1" - Done
POR-15 and Chassis Saver everywhere, and I mean everywhere - Done
R.E. Bumpstops
Polyurethane bushings - Done
Stainless Brake Lines - Partially done
Stainless Gas Lines - They already are...
Totally Stainless bolt kit - Getting done

Body:
Gen-Right Hood Louvers - Ready for install
Chassis Saver on the whole tub - Done
3M undercoating - Done
Raptor Liner in Spice - Done
Xenon Tube Flares - Purchased, but will be up for sale due to a change in course
Gen-Right Hi-Fenders - Fronts purchased
Swag Offroad Tailgate Kit

Drive Train:
Running Junkyard motor (Temporary) - Done 186k though
Rebuilt Engine to 4.6L Stroker - Camshaft, Crankshaft, Lifters Purchased
AIRAID Cold Air Intake - Purchased
2005 I6 Intake Manifold - Done
2005 I6 Power Steering Pump - Done
Hesco Throttle Body Spacer - Done
Throttle Body Bored to 60mm - Done
Fire Power Ignition - Done
Borla Header (Jet Hot Coated) - Done
Borla Cat-Back - Purchased
High Flow Cat - Purchased
Uni-Chip (Dyno Programed) - Purchased

Coolant System:
Ford Taurus Elec Fan - Purchased
Hesco High Flow Water Pump - Done
Stylin' Motors 4ply Rad Hoses - Purchased
5ply Heater Hoses - Purchased

Electrical:
Painless fuse block
HID head lights
Rear 3"x5" LED tail Lights
Reverse Lights (thinking Gen-Rights)

Interior:
Lecarra steering wheel in Spice
Tuffy 8" Stereo Console in Spice - Purchased
Fat 50. Cal cans for wheel well
Deuce and half Stowage boxes for rear
Warrior Transmission Cover - Purchased

[thejoop]

wow jeeps just dont like you man lol but looking forward to this....

[gunnorthered]

Let's see if I can get the images to work....

[gunnorthered]

All right I guess so, here are the others at the start. I took these right before I tore it down. I liked the green and all, but I'll be painting it Lackluster Sand Dust when it's done. I'm building the Jeep for the desert, hence the name, since I will be moving back out to AZ in the next two years.

[gunnorthered]

Here's a quick progression down to the frame.

[giggityjeeper]

should be a good thread....

good luck

[JeepDVL45]

Suscribed...

[gunnorthered]

The local sand blasting place wanted $250 to blast the frame and $500 to blast the tub. So I bought a sand blaster from Eastwood for $430. I have used it on the frame so far and it works great for the price. I have to say it can be quite time consuming, as well as dirty. I would how ever still have bought it knowing that now. You definitely need a good compressor that can keep up though. I had to run a two stage 5hp and a single stage 6hp with a combined capacity of 80 gallons just to keep it around 70psi. I spent two weekends with the single stage 6hpand had to break every 7 minutes for 10 minutes so it could recover. After they were setup in tandem it went great. I did learn that spraying everything down with a paint stripper the day before made life vastly easier. The reason I waited a day after applying the stripper was so the it could dry out and I could sift and reuse the sand.

Before and after of the grille mount:

Here's the frame after I finished blasting:

A leaf pack before and after:

Last one, the skid plate:

[Hurley91]

Looks like your going to need a big broom and a big dust pan LMAO. My dad has a small snap-on sand blaster and it works wonders getting down to bare metal. Good job and keep the pics coming.

[gunnorthered]

I figure at the worst I'll just have a little beach next to the drive way. A chair, some beer, and my personal beach. Though my father wasn't so keen on the idea.

[gunnorthered]

So these are the shock hoops for the front. Just took a cutting wheel to the shock perch and cut off at the 4.5" line across the top. The only thing I need to do is have the hoop stitch welder on the sides. Unfortunately I don't have a welder, at least not yet.

After I cut the perch:

With the shock hoop on:

[gunnorthered]

What both stock and the Hoop looks like:

[gunnorthered]

I ordered the bolt kit from Totally Stainless last night. I was pretty excited by the price considering buying some stainless steel bolts can cost a few dollars a piece. This Friday I'll be ordering my SS brake lines as well.

[gunnorthered]

Finished painting the frame. I used all POR-15 products. I wanted it to go without a hitch and hopefully never come off. You've probably heard this before, prep is key, and it's true. That's why I followed the instructions from the guys at Restomotive to the T. I have to say that anyone that wants to use POR-15 products needs to be patient.

Products used:
1 QT POR-15 Rust Preventative (black)
1 QT POR-15 Tie-Coat high build primer
1 QT POR-15 Flex-Cote top coat (Gray)
1 QT Metal Ready
1 PT Marine Cleaner
4 3/4" brushes
2 1-1/2" brushes
2 1" brushes
20 pairs of vinyl gloves

Procedure:
Step 1 - Sprayed rattle can paint stripper from Duplicolour all over the frame.
Step 2 - Waited till it dried. (I only did it because of the sand blasting)
Step 3 - Sand blasted the entire frame. This took about 2 days.
Step 4 - Prepped the frame for the SRS and extended travel shock mounts.
Step 5 - Sprayed Marine Cleaner (Parted 5:1) on the frame.
Step 6 - Let sit for 5 minutes.
Step 7 - Rinsed off Marine Cleaner.
Step 8 - Sprayed Metal Ready on the frame and let sit for 20 minutes.
Step 9 - Rinsed off Metal Ready.
Step 10 - Let sit over night to completely dry. (I allowed it flash rust for better adhesion of POR-15)
Step 11 - Applied base coat of POR-15 to the top of the frame.
Step 12 - Waited 12 hours, flipped.
Step 13 - Applied base coat of POR-15 to the bottom of the frame.
Step 14 - Waited 12 hours, etched the surface with a Scotch-Brite pad, then wiped clean.
Step 15 - Applied Tie-Coat to bottom of frame.
Step 16 - Waited 12 hours, flipped.
Step 17 - Etched the surface with a Scotch-Brite pad, then wiped clean.
Step 18 - Applied Tie-Coat to top of frame.
Step 19 - Waited 12 hours.
Step 20 - Etched the surface with a Scotch-Brite pad, then wiped clean.
Step 21 - Applied Flex-Cote to top of frame.
Step 22 - Waited 12 hours, flipped.
Step 23 - Etched the surface with a Scotch-Brite pad, then wiped clean.
Step 24 - Applied Flex-Cote to bottom of frame.
Done, finally

Lessons learned:
1 - Try to suspend the frame in a fashion that will allow the whole thing to be coated in one application.
2 - Apply the top coat after the 2 hour mark or when still slightly tacky. This allows you to forgo the primer.
3 - If you have to use a primer the the Self Etching Primer for Restomotive is the best choice. It comes in a rattle can and you don't have to etch before or after application.
4 - Try and use the moisture cured paints on days that aren't 76% humidity.

If anyone has any questions then let me know.
Here's the shot of it primed, I'll get one of the finished work later.

[8nine-sahara]

can't wait to see updates!
looks like it's gunna turn out great