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Unread 01-12-2014, 08:49 AM   #1
Unclejimbo
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Dana 60 questions

Alright my little project is moving along, putting dana 60's under a fresh frame and when it warms up swap tub and all other stuff over. Just want some opinions and insight. First off I have my highsteer arms, dom tubing and tre that i need to install, basically what is the best way to measure for tie rod and drag link length? The high steer arms are from parts mike and puts the tie rod behind the axle and the drag link in front, if that makes a difference.

Next I am torn between installing manual locking hubs or flanges. Hubs would be nice and convenient but i keep reading of people destroying em, and flanges dont seem bad just more work if I wanna remove em for road travel. i dont plan on babying this jeep but it will also see road a good bit.

Lastly, for now, rear shocks. I moved the rear axle back a good bit and am relocating the gas tank and such but my question is, is there enough room to out board em or is there a better way. The 60's are full width. Thanks for any suggestions.

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Unread 01-12-2014, 11:11 AM   #2
flipit
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You could use PVC for the tie rod and drag link. real easy to cut, and you can cut it to the proper length and see how it looks before cutting the DOM
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Unread 01-12-2014, 03:02 PM   #3
jason m
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First I would install the axle along with the high steer arms, then check for clearance as you cycle the axle, full drop then full stuff.
This will will tell you a couple things, first if the steering behind the axle can work in your rig, second what size DOM you can use ( 1.5" or 2" ).

Flanges VS hubs, well that comes down to a few questions to, are you going to run upgrade 35 spline dana 70 stubs if so then OEM hubs wont work and flanges will be cheaper than the Warn after market one's.
If you do run stock shafts then look for a set of 30 spline Spicer hubs, they are hard to find but are tuff as nails, you will break a stub laong before you break a hub and you can also have them broached for 35 spline down the road.

Last question whay a dana 60 rear? Why not a 14 bolt or a at least a dana 70all the beef factory with no expenisive upgrades, like shafts.
And as far as out boarding get the axle under the Jeep, cut whats in the way.

Jason.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 03:14 PM   #4
Unclejimbo
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Yeah figured the pvc method was easiest.

The fronts are 35 spline, and i was kinda leaning towards flanges, so i reckon that will do. And the only reason for the 60 in the back was because I bought the 60's as a pair, and the previous owner had already upgraded both to 35 splines, 4.88 gearing, full spool in the rear with disc break conversion and the front has a detroit locker all they needed was steering stuff and hubs or whatever i may go deeper in gearing but one thing at a time. Already outboarded my springs and put cherokee springs in the back for the stretch. They are sitting under a frame right now, was just trying to get things sorted out before I go ordering more stuff. Thanks
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Unread 01-12-2014, 03:27 PM   #5
kloppk
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I put a pair of 60's under my YJ a year ago.
I did outboard the rear air shocks. Had to French the shock towers into the frame.





I set up my steering like this.



PVC and hose clamps worked well for mocking up the links and flexing it before cutting DOM & welding.
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Unread 01-12-2014, 05:10 PM   #6
Unclejimbo
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Those look like the arms I will be using and with that steering setup you dont hit the frame or anything? I wanted to link mine but decided to just go leaf springs so I can spend money elsewhere, ill do it one day. But since I am running leaf springs and there is more force on the frame wouldnt frenching the shock towers into the frame make it weak or am I over thinking that one? Thanks for the pics.

:Edit: Oh yeah how do you like the heim steering? since it is going to see a good bit of street should I just stick to tre?
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Unread 01-12-2014, 06:03 PM   #7
kloppk
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The arms are from Parts Mike too.
Nope, nothing makes any contact at full flex. I added bump stops to the front axle after I took the pics above.


The towers I fabbed up from 1/4" steel angle iron. The frame is fully welded all the way around.
The towers are way stronger that the thin frame material so in the end I think it's as strong or stronger.


The only downside I've seen with the heims is that the bolts securing them to the arms loosen up a bit over time and occasionally need re-torqueing.
Did you buy the arms with tapered or straight holes?
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Unread 01-12-2014, 06:19 PM   #8
Unclejimbo
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I bought em tapered so I think I'll stick with tre.
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Unread 01-13-2014, 06:44 PM   #9
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kloppk View Post


The only downside I've seen with the heims is that the bolts securing them to the arms loosen up a bit over time and occasionally need re-torqueing.
Did you buy the arms with tapered or straight holes?
Weld tabs to your high steer arms and put them in double sheer, this way they will never loosen up again,




Jason.
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And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 01-19-2014, 05:40 PM   #10
Unclejimbo
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I figure ill just post questions in here instead of a new thread everytime I think of something. I have never driven a vehicle with a locker or a spool. With that being said my 60's came already setup with a full carrier aussie in the front and a full spool in the rear. I guess im wondering what I should expect from them on road. Ive been reading peoples opinions on full spools on the road and the general consensus is quick tire ware, not to do it, and obviously it wanting to just push forward. But i also read conflicting stuff also. It will see road as ive already stated and most places to wheel at for me are almost 2 hours away if not more. I figure ill be ok with the front locker but im a bit hesitant about the spool. Anyone's insight on this would be awesome. Thanks
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Unread 01-19-2014, 09:50 PM   #11
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A spool in the rear, you will notice it in the corners but thats about it. I ran one before my Jeep went to a trail only. I like them more than a full case Detroit locker.
With the Detroit ( a full case ) you can feel it lock and unlock and even some times not unlock in a corner acting as a full spool. I would much rather have a spool wich I know is always locked.

Even on a winding road you wont really feel a spool at a travel speed its when you go slower you will.
Tire ware, well thats really how much you make tight turns, they do bark the tires more, but really no more than a full case locker.

I run a Detroit in a 86 DRW, as a plow truck. Granted most of the time I'm driving it there is snow, but you always feel it locking into a spool and unlocking. On dry pavement its even worse, but its a locker on pavement.

So really if it were me I would run it, dont listen to the spool haters, they claim you will make one small mistake going 60 and not be able to correct your self and slam into a bus full of nuns.
Or there buddys, uncle's, sisters, boyfriends, former room mate ran one and had nothing but problems, my guess probally nuns again.

Jason.
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And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:55 AM   #12
Unclejimbo
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Nuns, classic. Thanks for the info appreciate it.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 10:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m
A spool in the rear, you will notice it in the corners but thats about it. I ran one before my Jeep went to a trail only. I like them more than a full case Detroit locker. With the Detroit ( a full case ) you can feel it lock and unlock and even some times not unlock in a corner acting as a full spool. I would much rather have a spool wich I know is always locked. Even on a winding road you wont really feel a spool at a travel speed its when you go slower you will. Tire ware, well thats really how much you make tight turns, they do bark the tires more, but really no more than a full case locker. I run a Detroit in a 86 DRW, as a plow truck. Granted most of the time I'm driving it there is snow, but you always feel it locking into a spool and unlocking. On dry pavement its even worse, but its a locker on pavement. So really if it were me I would run it, dont listen to the spool haters, they claim you will make one small mistake going 60 and not be able to correct your self and slam into a bus full of nuns. Or there buddys, uncle's, sisters, boyfriends, former room mate ran one and had nothing but problems, my guess probally nuns again. Jason.
X2 on the spool, I run one on the road in the rear of my jeep. Never had a single issue with it yet. Also I really like that idea of Welding tabs to the high steer arms, I'm thinkin I'm gona have to do dat.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 05:25 PM   #14
kloppk
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Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Weld tabs to your high steer arms and put them in double sheer, this way they will never loosen up again,




Jason.
Thank you for the suggestion!
Looks like my next mod for before wheeling season starts again.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 06:05 PM   #15
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kloppk View Post
Thank you for the suggestion!
Looks like my next mod for before wheeling season starts again.
Drop me a PM when your ready to wheel again, I got some land in central mass we can try those new mods on.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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