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Unread 09-30-2012, 07:46 PM   #61
BlueRubiconrich
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welding: I'm a welder and I have a 110 mig and a ACDC stick welder
a 110 is fine for somethings say sheetmetal light steel but when you want
things (LOL) to stay together you use a stick welder and not 6011 ether.
you use 7018.You should not weld a pitman arm. Spend the money and do it right, don't cobble it together.

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Unread 09-30-2012, 07:55 PM   #62
skyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzy89
theres about 20 passes of weld on it laying one bead then wire wheeling it then laying another weld and so on
Oh well then carry on then. I don't know what I'm talking about.... 20 passes are you kidding me??
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Unread 09-30-2012, 08:08 PM   #63
BlueRubiconrich
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and what Rod are you using?
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Unread 09-30-2012, 08:28 PM   #64
G30SFF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRubiconrich View Post
welding: I'm a welder and I have a 110 mig and a ACDC stick welder
a 110 is fine for somethings say sheetmetal light steel but when you want
things (LOL) to stay together you use a stick welder and not 6011 ether.
you use 7018.You should not weld a pitman arm. Spend the money and do it right, don't cobble it together.
I know you said you are a "welder" and all, but isn't the pitman arm cast ductile iron and requires preheating and a nickel rod?

Nothing is wrong with a 6011 rod when used correctly. To say use a 7018 rod and stick welding when you want things to stay together tells what kind of a "welder" you are.

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Unread 09-30-2012, 08:52 PM   #65
bigbossd1030
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Ok... I couldn't go on anymore. That thing you call a pitman arm, is a deathtrap. If my boss ever saw me do anything like that, it would be my job. I have no idea where the person who "welded" that up, learned it was ok. What you did was make a piece of steel out of copperwire. This makes no sence. I agree with using smaw rather than gmaw. But this takes more patience, judging by those weld jobs, there has to be a lack of. If at all possible, smaw with 7018 or 7024 rod. If you really mean buisness. Or use a 240 V gmaw with .035 wire, I would run at least 25v and 454ipm wire speed. You will penetrate and fill with enough wire to avoid undercut. If you need to grind you don't know what you are doing. I build winch tractors and use this setting to weld 3/4 inch plate. But do NOT fill with passes to make a chunck of steel. The weld will not hold up. If you insist on trying to destroy someones life, go to a gravel pit, open her up do a few turns, see what happens. I hope you need an inspection after you are done.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 09:01 PM   #66
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G30SFF250

I know you said you are a "welder" and all, but isn't the pitman arm cast ductile iron and requires preheating and a nickel rod?

Nothing is wrong with a 6011 rod when used correctly. To say use a 7018 rod and stick welding when you want things to stay together tells what kind of a "welder" you are.

You are right, but a 6011 or similar rod is for light duty work. Not for this. And yes in normal situations, preheating and stabilized nickle rods should be used... but it can be done with a mig or stick. We don't weld much cast, but we preheat the part to 600° first. A nickle rod should be used though, but really, look at the pics and tell me its not a waste of time explaining how to do it properly. Its expensive to get everything, and requires a lot of time to heat and slow cool so it doesn't crack.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 09:07 PM   #67
G30SFF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030 View Post
You are right, but a 6011 or similar rod is for light duty work. Not for this. And yes in normal situations, preheating and stabilized nickle rods should be used... but it can be done with a mig or stick. We don't weld much cast, but we preheat the part to 600° first. A nickle rod should be used though, but really, look at the pics and tell me its not a waste of time explaining how to do it properly. Its expensive to get everything, and requires a lot of time to heat and slow cool so it doesn't crack.
I agree with you, I was just referring to the previous blanket statement that I quoted.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 09:50 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G30SFF250

I agree with you, I was just referring to the previous blanket statement that I quoted.
I understand. I just can't get over those pictures, unreal.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 10:07 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G30SFF250 View Post
but isn't the pitman arm cast ductile iron and requires preheating and a nickel rod?
No pitman arm are forged steel and can be welded. This one the Op did looks like it has alot of slag pockets or voids which can leed to stress riser and fail, so I wouldn't trust it.

But to answer the question yes they can be welded and with any 70.000 tensle strength rod/filler.

Jason.
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Unread 10-01-2012, 05:36 AM   #70
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Op, If this many people are concerned.... Time to slow down the build and redo. Start with the crossmember, order the right steering components. Overall, what you think is strong enough is not.

3" on either side, is not enough
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Unread 10-01-2012, 06:38 AM   #71
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Its 7018 rod and the crossmember is temp anyway
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Unread 10-01-2012, 10:23 AM   #72
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These guys are trying to help you get it right and not kill yourself.

Ignore them at your own risk.

All you needed were leftovers from your local steel yard and 20' of 1.5" 1/4 wall dom and 4 Weld in bungs.
Pittman arm from a wagoneer, and one CORRECT high steer arm with studs and cone washers.
Save a life, do it right.
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Unread 10-01-2012, 12:46 PM   #73
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey
these guys are trying to help you get it right and not kill yourself.

Ignore them at your own risk.

All you needed were leftovers from your local steel yard and 20' of 1.5" 1/4 wall dom and 4 weld in bungs.
Pittman arm from a wagoneer, and one correct high steer arm with studs and cone washers.
Save a life, do it right.
x2
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Unread 10-01-2012, 05:17 PM   #74
BlueRubiconrich
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Yes I'm a welder and my words were a joke. "Stick things together" LOL

I was being funny and welding certain things are not.
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Unread 10-01-2012, 06:32 PM   #75
skyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey
These guys are trying to help you get it right and not kill yourself.

Ignore them at your own risk.

All you needed were leftovers from your local steel yard and 20' of 1.5" 1/4 wall dom and 4 Weld in bungs.
Pittman arm from a wagoneer, and one CORRECT high steer arm with studs and cone washers.
Save a life, do it right.

xxx3
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2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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