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Unread 09-30-2012, 10:01 AM   #46
fuzzy89
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Poke the front bumper has 6 grade 1/2in 8 bolts in the stock holes and the back bumper has 8 1/2in grade 8 bolts in the stock bumper mount holes and the d-rings are welded on

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Unread 09-30-2012, 12:16 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzy89
and the d-rings are welded on
Face welded?
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Unread 09-30-2012, 12:20 PM   #48
fuzzy89
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They're "V" d out or notched and welded
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Unread 09-30-2012, 01:23 PM   #49
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V or notched doesn't help much. All the strength relies on the strength of the welds. Those brackets need to be better supported and reinforced. I am planning my bumper build and wil be running the brackets all the way through the bumper with welds on the inside face as well as the outside face of the bumper. This will help dissipate all the "pressure" when pulling. Remember; the Jeep weighs 3,000 lbs and takes very little effort to move on flat ground, but when it is stuck or broken, that 'weight' increases exponentially. If i remember correctly as you are recovering a stuck vehicle every 6" of mud it is stuck in adds somehing like 1,500 lbs to the weight of the vehicle. Something like that, not positive on the exact number. My point is, once you are stuck it will take ALOT of pull to move the jeep. You need to plan for all that ahead of time. You saw the previous post where nothing but slow speed steering bent 3/4" plate. Just imagine the forces involved to pull it up a hill. Over engineer it bro! I am designing mine to worst case scenario. I want to ensure that if something horrible happens like the jeep starts to roll over, any single pull point will be capable of fully witholding the entire weight of the jeep and then some. This isn't a tinker toy set you are working with. When something like a tow hook breaks, it can cost someone their life.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 01:39 PM   #50
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Also, DOM tubing isn't that expensive. If I were you I would spend a few bucks and just make your own steering components. There are plenty of 'how to' videos on appropriate ways to do so. This gives you the opportunity to build the tothe core t length, with quality components the first time. do it once and do it right! Plenty of people on here have done it. If you have ever seen a draglink fail at any speed and both front tires go in opposite directions, normally doesn't end well for the driver/owner.

Please please PLEASE take everyones suggestions to heart. We don't want to hurt your feelings or beat you up for what you have done thus far. We all are concerned for your safety and the safety of those around you!
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Unread 09-30-2012, 01:53 PM   #51
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Not defending the OPs fabing, but his D ring mounts are what ive used on Eqp trailers in the past. If there the 5/8" ring they will be fine as long as there welded down right and with a 70.000 tensle strength filler rod/wire.

http://www.hitchanything.com/Tow-Rea...bs.-63025.html

The tie rod well hell i'm even guilty of sleaving one on my rig, but I used 1.5" tube with a 1/4" wall and a 1" round rod as the back up sleeve with plug welds in the 1.5" tube. I'm trail only with full hydro and no failures yet.

The cross member I would have done alot different and that steering arm is very scary, that I dont trust.

Jason.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 02:23 PM   #52
USMCBuckWild
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Doesn't look like 5/8 rings, look a bt smaller than that. Not nit picking, but i have learned the hardway about using improper mounts and recovery equipment. I was on the receiving end of a chain that recoiled under the load due to a poorly manufactured mount. I spent 3 days in ICU and was lucky to walk away. was bruised from my nipples to my knees for almost 3 weeks. Better safe than sorry.

I have sleeved a drag link before, but I don't see any internal support and I don't see any mention of a sleeve being applied over the butt welds. The pitman arm I wouldn't trust regardless.

Just my $.02 from lessons learned the hardway.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 02:50 PM   #53
seattle_yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCBuckWild
V or notched doesn't help much. All the strength relies on the strength of the welds. Those brackets need to be better supported and reinforced. I am planning my bumper build and wil be running the brackets all the way through the bumper with welds on the inside face as well as the outside face of the bumper. This will help dissipate all the "pressure" when pulling. Remember; the Jeep weighs 3,000 lbs and takes very little effort to move on flat ground, but when it is stuck or broken, that 'weight' increases exponentially. If i remember correctly as you are recovering a stuck vehicle every 6" of mud it is stuck in adds somehing like 1,500 lbs to the weight of the vehicle. Something like that, not positive on the exact number. My point is, once you are stuck it will take ALOT of pull to move the jeep. You need to plan for all that ahead of time. You saw the previous post where nothing but slow speed steering bent 3/4" plate. Just imagine the forces involved to pull it up a hill. Over engineer it bro! I am designing mine to worst case scenario. I want to ensure that if something horrible happens like the jeep starts to roll over, any single pull point will be capable of fully witholding the entire weight of the jeep and then some. This isn't a tinker toy set you are working with. When something like a tow hook breaks, it can cost someone their life.
I'm trying to picture what you mean by " running brackets all the way through the bumper" can you point me to a pic of this?

Also props to the op for taking on this beast of a project and much respect to those that have chimed in with suggestions. It's helpful to us lurkers trying to learn what works and what doesn't. Cheers guys.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 03:14 PM   #54
USMCBuckWild
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattle_yj View Post
I'm trying to picture what you mean by " running brackets all the way through the bumper" can you point me to a pic of this?

Also props to the op for taking on this beast of a project and much respect to those that have chimed in with suggestions. It's helpful to us lurkers trying to learn what works and what doesn't. Cheers guys.
Ok, say you plan on using a solid mount for a D ring. 3/4" thick x 1 1/2" steel is what I am using. So you bore the hole in the steel approx 1 1/4 from the end for your D ring. Now, measure for where you want the mount to attach to the bumper, scribe the outside dimensions of the steel mount (3/4 x 1 1/2) on the front face as well as the rear of the bumper. Cut out both sides of the bumper so you have a a 3/4 x 1 1/2 hole all the way through the bumper. Now you can take a 3/8" thick 4x6" steel plate and cut the same 3/4 x 1 1/2" hole in it. On the rear side of the bumper grind the hole so it is at approx a 45 degree angle. Now push the D ring mount through the bumper so you have approx 5/8 - 3/4" sticking out the back. Lay a good heavy weld in the grooved rear face of the bumper. Once that is done, grind it down smooth and even. Take the plate you cut and place it over the stub sticking out and ensure t is flat against the bumper. Weld a heavy bead around the stub, then weld all the way around the plate. Flip the bumper over and weld a big heavy bead around the D-ring mount in the front face of the bumper. This has reinforced the D-ring mount and will dissipate all the pressure accross the back of the bumper and spread the load throughout the bumper instead of just the welds on the face.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 03:29 PM   #55
USMCBuckWild
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Like this. Then apply the plate over the nub to spread load the pull pressure.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 04:46 PM   #56
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Ok, I see what you mean now. Thanks man. That's why the clevis is so long: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/BCLEV.html .

What you using to cut out those through passages? Die grinder?
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Unread 09-30-2012, 05:16 PM   #57
USMCBuckWild
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Use whatever you need. Torch cleaned up with a cutting wheel on a grinder, just the cutting wheel, a die grinder, whatever you need. I usually drill a hole in the corners and connect the dots. Make sure you tack weld a bolt onto the piece being cut out so you can toss some vice grips on it to keep it from falling into your bumper.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 07:55 PM   #58
fuzzy89
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The D rings are 5/8 and the buttweld on the steering linkage has a schedule 40 sleeve 6in long 3in on either side of the weld.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 08:21 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzy89
The D rings are 5/8 and the buttweld on the steering linkage has a schedule 40 sleeve 6in long 3in on either side of the weld.
That's not even the biggest issue here fratis pointed our your steering. That weld on the pitman arm looks like you used a little 110v welder to glue it together. Then ground down the weld to make it purdee. The things you should never skimp on are steering and braking. There are plenty of guys that can help you out here. Please let us help you fix your steering problem before you take it out on any public road.
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Unread 09-30-2012, 08:43 PM   #60
fuzzy89
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Its a miller ac/dc welder and theres about 20 passes of weld on it laying one bead then wire wheeling it then laying another weld and so on
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