Dana 30 has a smaller ring gear (7.20) than a 35(7.56), cost effective, no ; Would need new axle tubes, perches etc etc, and try to find a ring and pinion for a 30 for a rear diff. Unless your 35 is pranged up completely, continue using it, When it breaks then, either replace it with another from the breakers, or upgrade. Mild wheeling, if that's what you are doing, should be fine.
so after searching about the dana 30 axle, and finding that everyone says it seems to hold it 's own decent enough... i have a question...
if the dana 30 is a decent axle and if jeeps have them in the front... is there a way to make the dana 30 into a rear axle? if its even cost efficient...
my plan is to run 33"s no bigger, and just mild wheeling... anyone have aany other sugestions for a cheap medium duty rear axle?
Take just one moment and consider what you are wondering about......
Hmm...you'll be removing the knuckles, ball joints, inner C's etc and then have an axle that is WAY too narrow. This is an extreamly poor starting place while building an axle be it front or rear. Get the picture?
The HPD30 can be built to survive some tough stuff - but it's a good idea to have an experianced driver behind the wheel who knows it's limitations and doesn't flog it like it's beefier than it is.
the reason it isn't a bad axle up front is because it does not have to deal w/ all the torque that the d35 deals with. i've never heard anyone consider this and considering that the pumpkin isn't even remotely close to center it would just be a serious waste of time and money.
'90 I6 258 w/ Weber 32-36 Carb.
32" BF M/T's with cragar rims
5" BDS springs, MORE greasable shackles, XJ driveshaft, AA SYE kit, RE SS brake lines. Bilstein 5150's, 255/70 valving all around, 14" travel in front, 10" in rear.
JF MOTO>>>>"Ban a tard...save a life" <<<contributed by leftlanetruckin OMNIPOTENCE...gotta get me some of that
Ford 8.8 Its the cheapest way to add a lot of strength to your vehicle. (Assuming you don't have to regear.) Why? Because its almost a completely bolt on application. As long as you can turn a wrench, you can get it done. If you don't have a welder, find a friend who does. At the very worst you might have to pay a shop to weld those spring perches on. But if you do all the measuring work and just bring the axle to the shop, I can't fathom anyone charging you more than a few bucks.
94 YJ w/ stuff. All the work/money I put into it, and the comment I get most is my $20 mod: "Hand throttle?!? That's awesome."
Originally Posted by dmcanally
You know you drive a YJ when it is no longer getting older, but slowly becoming brand new part by part.
Good question...but there are a lotta economical solutions out there that would preclude this swap... Unless you are thinkin' along the lines of a four wheel steering system! Now THAT I'd like to see!!!
My 88 cheokee 2 wd comes from the factory with a dana 30 307 gears in the rear
Welcome to the site. I think your first post should have been after you read the FAQ in the Cherokee section and not have revived a six year old dead thread to post incorrect information. Kudos on searching though, its a lost art.
Originally Posted by dukeryder
The strength of a Dana 30 in a YJ is the use of a reverse cut ring and pinion. The ring and pinion are stronger when they are reverse cut in front axles.
You guys are looking at the wrong Dana 30. You guys are saying how much work your goin to need to do this correct but jeep already had Dana 30 rear ends in there jeeps my 1970 jeepster has factory Dana 30 rear end and its hasn't falled me yet.