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Dan's Old as Dirt Birthday Sale!GEARSHADE Pocket Tops in stock and available at ROCKRIDGE Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon Zip

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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:16 PM   #1
dougbrown
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Dana 30 Build to handle 35" or 36"

Hi Guys,

I want to put a Ford 8.8 in the rear with 4.10 I thing. I know I want the Ford 8.8, Just not sure if I want the 4.10. So Now at the same time I want to think about building a front axle to handle 35" or 36". I don't plan on running them till my new 33" are shoot or about a year from now. What I do want is to be ready for the swap.

So What do I need to do to make my 35 be able to handle them?
I was thinking about an ox cable locker or detroit locker. What I'm not so sure about was the half shaft holding up. Right now I have the washer stack in mine.


Thanks Doug.

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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:19 PM   #2
justanotherjpr
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What kindof wheeling do you do? When you say 36", I am assuming you mean a bias ply tire like an IROC - is that correct?
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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:20 PM   #3
2doorxj
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Ox locker, alloy shafts, and id say you'd be good for 35s, for 36s, I wouldnt use a 30 but, if u insist, truss it, rcvs, warn hub conversion, and a light foot.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:34 PM   #4
dougbrown
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Originally Posted by justanotherjpr View Post
What kindof wheeling do you do? When you say 36", I am assuming you mean a bias ply tire like an IROC - is that correct?
I trail ride in drit and mud. Not to much rock, some hill climbing.


If I don't use a dana 30 what are my other options? This jeep stuff new to me!
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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:42 PM   #5
dillonjm
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The HP D30 is fine for 35's in its stock form.

I wouldn't have any issues running a TJ LP D30 with 35's and the HP is stronger by design (gear wise). IF I wanted to upgrade, I'd put a locker and TJ shafts into it (for the larger joint) and call it a day.

36's are on the upper limit of what I'd run, 37's are too big. 37's are almost too big for a stock 44 IMHO.

Temper my opinion with the fact that it all depends on your wheeling style/environment/type.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:53 PM   #6
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I ran 37x14.50s with a 4.3 Atlas, 4.88's and a healthy 4.3 Chevy in my old YJ.
The front 30 did fine, after I swapped to 30 spline shafts and Yukon Superjoints.
I ran ARB lockers in both the 8.8 and the HP30 and everything did great.
Never had any breakage after swapping over to the Yukon U joints, but before they went in I could break a Dana U joint at will (larger U joints with 27 spline chromo shafts).
I would keep you eyes open for guys selling good stuff for cheap.
I wheel in rocks, so am no doubt a little harder on stuff than you would be by the sound of it.
Just remember a complete imbecile can destroy a built Dana 60, so careful driving makes everything last longer. Joe Dillard also had a built Dana 30 in his rig, and he wheels some pretty severe stuff and had a 5:1 Atlas to boot. He never had a problem IIRC.

Martin
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Unread 09-16-2011, 05:54 PM   #7
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i run 35s on my stock front axle with a lock rite in it. And im waiting on my 37s since they are back ordered... When i bump to 37s, im going to do chromo shafts.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 06:26 PM   #8
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I just went out for my first time with 35s on the 30 about two weeks ago.

I snapped a driver side u joint and broke the stub ears off the shaft....

Might need at least chromos and some good joints...
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Unread 09-16-2011, 06:33 PM   #9
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I run 36's TSL SX's on my HP30 with 4.88s and a aussie on stock shafts in the rocks hard and no real issues as of yet. I do plan that once I break a shaft I will be doing Chromo's...

The problem with CTM's and RCV's is you are wasting money... not you are taking all the stress from your u joint and putting that into the ring gear/pinion which will not tolerate that much of it.... I'd rather snap a $15 u joint that destroy my internals... Even when i switch to Chromo's I will not be going with CTM's.... Now if your rocking a Dana 44, 60 or bigger up front, the ring gear and pinions are able to handle more so the CTMs or RCV's are a great purchase.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 06:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
I just went out for my first time with 35s on the 30 about two weeks ago.

I snapped a driver side u joint and broke the stub ears off the shaft....

Might need at least chromos and some good joints...
can i ask a ? without it sounding d*ck? I put a locker in my front on 33's and did the exact same thing my 1st trip out, mine was lack of knowing WTF i was doing with having the front locked.... Like I said since then I have moved to 4.88s, aussie and 36's and wheel it in the rocks without issues so far!
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Build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...-dirty-894483/
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Unread 09-16-2011, 06:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95wrangler4life View Post
I run 36's TSL SX's on my HP30 with 4.88s and a aussie on stock shafts in the rocks hard and no real issues as of yet. I do plan that once I break a shaft I will be doing Chromo's...

The problem with CTM's and RCV's is you are wasting money... not you are taking all the stress from your u joint and putting that into the ring gear/pinion which will not tolerate that much of it.... I'd rather snap a $15 u joint that destroy my internals... Even when i switch to Chromo's I will not be going with CTM's.... Now if your rocking a Dana 44, 60 or bigger up front, the ring gear and pinions are able to handle more so the CTMs or RCV's are a great purchase.
All well and good until you break a $200 chromo shaft due to that $15 U joint you left in there as a weak link.
I have, and continue to know lots of folks who wheel hard on HP30's, and have YET to see a R&P give way. Now granted these folks are experienced and stop when the bouncing starts, but still......
After I installed the 4.3 Atlas, I would break U joints at will. The last U joint that went screwed my chromo shafts and chipped a tooth on the R&P due to the sudden shock. After the 30 spline shafts and yukon superjoints went in, never had a single issue.
Take it for what it's worth, but I speak from personal experience and not what I heard etc
The tales of R&P blowouts in a HP30 are so over blown it isn't funny any more.
Martin
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Unread 09-16-2011, 07:32 PM   #12
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I wheeled for many years hard in the rocks on 33s with a stock 30 but first trip with 35s I broke, could be a coincidence

I do have a really heavy right foot though
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Unread 09-16-2011, 07:46 PM   #13
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Ive been running 35s on my HP30 with 27 spline chromos for 5 years or so now. With the chromos, locker and 35s I have snapped one stub , one shaft and twisted the splines on another. I do not think thats too bad considering the abuse its seen.

If I had the 30 spline shafts as leftlane is suggesting, I would of Probably had no issues with just 35s. I do agree with 95wrangler4life on the RCVs though, that is a lot of money to invest in a Dana 30. Their shafts are excellent but there are better investments if you are going to drop that kind of coin. The HP30 is well designed but it IS a light duty axle.

For those running the stock shafts, I did find that a tack weld between the ujoint/collars stopped the collars from getting nuked when the u-joint gave. YMMV
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Unread 09-16-2011, 07:49 PM   #14
dougbrown
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So what year tj dana 30 shaft do I need to do away with my half shaft?
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Unread 09-16-2011, 07:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougbrown View Post
Hi Guys,

I want to put a Ford 8.8 in the rear with 4.10 I thing. I know I want the Ford 8.8, Just not sure if I want the 4.10. So Now at the same time I want to think about building a front axle to handle 35" or 36". I don't plan on running them till my new 33" are shoot or about a year from now. What I do want is to be ready for the swap.

So What do I need to do to make my 35 be able to handle them?
I was thinking about an ox cable locker or detroit locker. What I'm not so sure about was the half shaft holding up. Right now I have the washer stack in mine.


Thanks Doug.
what is your budget? there's a ton a stuff you can do to pollish a D30. but the weakest link, as Martin pointed out, are the ujoints. when I went to 35's, I upgraded to new stock '95 shafts w/x760 ujoints... carry the old joints/shafts as spares. I also have a locker and I wheel it purdy hard. has worked fine to date. if you're looking to not spend a ton of $$$, then you could swap in a new YJ driver side and a TJ pass side, and get rid of the vac/2 piece and gain the big ujoints all at the same time. a little more $$ and upgrade to chromos. also, good quality R&P is not a bad idea, either.



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