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01-23-2012, 09:16 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Middle, TN
Posts: 1,181
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In my (what seems like a) never ending quest to overbuild my jeep, I've shifted my focus to the Dana 30. My '89 has the reverse cut...great news. But, it has the smaller ujoint (260x vs 760x)...a negative.
My ultimate goal is to put 33" tires on Tinker. I'm putting in an 8.8 (for those that don't know) in the rear and going to 4.56 gears (with a spartan locker in the front). After the swap, I see the Dana 30 being the weak link, more specifically the ujoints on the axle. I've seen some upgraded axles that are chromoly 30 spline and use the 760x joint. I read it calls for a different carrier to do this.
My question is how many people have shredded their 260x ujoint or axle shafts on their Dana 30s running a similar setup? Would it be advisable to get an extra set of axles to carry on the trail? Since space is always a premium on the trail, Im trying to decide whether it's better to go on and drop $500+ for a 27 (or 30) spline d30 setup or just have extra axles (stock) ready to go in (I can get a complete setup for ~$200).
I've read that the biggest issue with the d30 is shredding a ujoint, which sometimes bends the "ears" of the axle shaft. Just wondering how often this happens and what repairs you can/could do on the trail if this happens.
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"A woman's body is a work of art. A man's body is a utilitarian. It's for gettin' around. It's like a Jeep." - Elaine Benes
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01-23-2012, 09:42 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: brantford, ontario
Posts: 334
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i know alot of people use the xj or tj shafts for the d30, they use a larger u joint and they go from a 2 piece on the passenger side to a 1 piece axle
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its a rusty one
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01-23-2012, 09:55 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Middle, TN
Posts: 1,181
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by lovett86
i know alot of people use the xj or tj shafts for the d30, they use a larger u joint and they go from a 2 piece on the passenger side to a 1 piece axle
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I have read about this. I thought about doing it myself, but it wears the driveline components out faster, as they are in constant use. Others say do it to get rid of the CAD / vacuum system. Sounds good, but my CAD system works fine. If it were to fail, I'd posi lok it (I did my 87 and didn't mind it).
So, I guess, there is a trade to going the xj/tj shaft idea. I certainly will not be going manual hubs anytime soon ($$$).
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"A woman's body is a work of art. A man's body is a utilitarian. It's for gettin' around. It's like a Jeep." - Elaine Benes
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01-23-2012, 10:14 AM
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#4
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Blimps are terrible...
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 3,443
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jhumphrey
I have read about this. I thought about doing it myself, but it wears the driveline components out faster, as they are in constant use. Others say do it to get rid of the CAD / vacuum system. Sounds good, but my CAD system works fine. If it were to fail, I'd posi lok it (I did my 87 and didn't mind it).
So, I guess, there is a trade to going the xj/tj shaft idea. I certainly will not be going manual hubs anytime soon ($$$).
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The main reason to do it isn't the vac disconnect elimination, personally I actually like the disconnect idea. Its to gain the larger u-joint that the tj/xj had (some 95s had this joint too). The larger joint in the tj/xj d30 shafts is the same size as the d44 joint.
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01 WJ Limited - 4.7L - Current build here
08 Dodge 2500 Laramie(DD/Tow Rig): Cummins 6.7L/G56 6spd, Deletes, Smarty, SBDD3250, 3.5" / 285 75/18 Toyo AT2s / B&W Gooseneck
05 Liberty Limited (Wife's): 3.7/Auto, OME + Clevis + Rear Iso's, JBA upper arms, 245 70/17 Duratracs w/stock 17" Limited wheels and 1.25" spacers.
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01-23-2012, 10:38 AM
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#5
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ISO 9001 Compliant
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 13,954
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I have been running the stock front shafts and kept thinking I should do an upgrade so finally put in TJ shafts a few months ago, which have the larger joint. My testing is not scientific but I almost immediately broke the ears off an outer shaft and a few weeks later had a joint cap pop off which egged out the hole ruining an inner shaft.
Joe Dillard has a theory about this and I tend to agree. The ears are the same size, but have a larger hole for the larger joint and therefore less material around the outside and perhaps weaker. Also, at least three of the guys I go out with have TJs and they have broken stock shafts the same way.
Some info and pix in this thread.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/d...-axles-524384/
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01-23-2012, 11:10 AM
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#6
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Learns the hard way
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 604
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One thing to think about, I don't know of any aftermarket axle shafts that retain the stock vacuum disconnect. If you upgrade you're probably going to have to ditch the vacuum stuff.
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01-23-2012, 12:10 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Middle, TN
Posts: 1,181
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Jbolty, it does make sense actually. Maybe having the smaller ujoint isn't such a bad thing? Maybe the best option is to get the inner/outer shafts and set them up complete, just throw them in your jeep when you go offroad and have an instant backup ready.
I know with the 8.8, I'll be good
__________________
"A woman's body is a work of art. A man's body is a utilitarian. It's for gettin' around. It's like a Jeep." - Elaine Benes
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01-23-2012, 12:25 PM
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#8
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Blimps are terrible...
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 3,443
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The tj shafts are stronger IMHO despite thinner metal around the joint caps. In my super scientific testing I busted my stock shafts first run on 35s locked and wasn't trying too hard.
I have yet to break a tj shaft and I've stepped it up in difficulty. I always carry spares though. Sometimes being prepared is enough to keep Murphy away.
I think its a decent upgrade if you're not wanting to step up to full chromos
__________________
01 WJ Limited - 4.7L - Current build here
08 Dodge 2500 Laramie(DD/Tow Rig): Cummins 6.7L/G56 6spd, Deletes, Smarty, SBDD3250, 3.5" / 285 75/18 Toyo AT2s / B&W Gooseneck
05 Liberty Limited (Wife's): 3.7/Auto, OME + Clevis + Rear Iso's, JBA upper arms, 245 70/17 Duratracs w/stock 17" Limited wheels and 1.25" spacers.
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01-23-2012, 01:49 PM
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#9
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Luck Favors the Prepared
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ripon, California
Posts: 13,730
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If I were you I would locate a set of axle shafts from a '95 and put them in there. That gives you the larger ujoint and allows you to have a posilock which gives you the option to unlock the passenger side while turning in 3wd.
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01-23-2012, 01:54 PM
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#10
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Injanir
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Knoxvegas, TN
Posts: 8,745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
If I were you I would locate a set of axle shafts from a '95 and put them in there. That gives you the larger ujoint and allows you to have a posilock which gives you the option to unlock the passenger side while turning in 3wd.
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This is what I do. I am still running my stock shafts on my '93 but lucked up on some '95 shafts from a buddy. I've been beating the crap out of my locked D30 on 33's for several years now but of course I have the spare shafts for that inevitable unlucky day.
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01-23-2012, 01:54 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Middle, TN
Posts: 1,181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
If I were you I would locate a set of axle shafts from a '95 and put them in there. That gives you the larger ujoint and allows you to have a posilock which gives you the option to unlock the passenger side while turning in 3wd.
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What is this posilock that you speak of?
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01-23-2012, 02:39 PM
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#12
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ID 10 T error
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Falling Waters, WV
Posts: 2,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovett86
i know alot of people use the xj or tj shafts for the d30, they use a larger u joint and they go from a 2 piece on the passenger side to a 1 piece axle
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Get late 95 shafts. Mine have the bigger ujoint but still 2 peice for the cad/ Should fit right in. It should all be the same except it has the bigger ujoint. Damn Atican beat me to it. I really need to read the whole thread first then reply instead of reply as soon as an idea pops in my head and then 3 post later I see someone said what I just said.
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Big difference between a Warn winch and a worn wench. I'll take the former.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Oh and the phrase high cfm doesnt do that fan justice. It could suck peanut butter through a straw!
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01-23-2012, 05:02 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: , PA
Posts: 890
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i wouldn't worry about the "extra wear" on the drivetrain components. A LOT of people eliminate the vac/upgrade shafts/put in lunchbox lockers.
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01-23-2012, 05:10 PM
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#14
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Luck Favors the Prepared
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ripon, California
Posts: 13,730
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Posilock can give you many options over one piece shaft kits especially with a lunchbox locker. This is the most efficient way to go when building on a budget in my eyes. It is essentially a selectable locker without lightening your wallet too much. You need to learn when to unlock it even more than when to lock it. Broken ujoints will help in the education process along the way.
I would suggest upgrading the 297 series from the 95+ wranglers to the 760 series.
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01-23-2012, 05:42 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Glendale Heights, Illinios
Posts: 726
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I have a 95 and still broke the u joint. I have 33s and the first time wheelin it snaped the pass. side you joint, but I think it was my fault I dumped the clutch a little with my wheels turned. But now i have chromolys  .
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