[northjeep]

This article describes how to replace a D35 rear axle with a ford 8.8 rear axle in a 1988 Jeep Wrangler.

My 35 broke close to home. I was checking my mail...the left side was in dirt, right side on pavement. When I took off I must have spun the left wheel a bit cuz when it caught the pavement...Boom. I would like to be clear on the fact that I was not "hot doggin", and I don't push my rig hard at all.
Turns out it's the spyder gears which are pooched in the tired 35.

Not one to flush money...I decided to replace the D35 rather than "build" it.

Enter, the Ford 8.8. After research on line, discussions here on JeepForum.com and talking with other jeepers, I settled on the 8.8. It has lots going for it.

The advantages are more than enough to support the 8.8:
Strength close to that of a D60, plentiful parts supply, matching wheel bolt pattern, disk brakes, close match in width to the 35, higher bang for buck factor than most.

(dell2028 supplied this info):

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

It's not without disadvantages though: C-clip axle retention (some claim this to be a non-issue), weak carrier if locking from factory, carrier bearing cap flex (extreme horsepower only issue), axle tube to housing weld strength.

Stage one:
I started out by removing the calipers, rotors and inspecting the gears.


Then I put the axle on jack stands and welded up the axle tubes.


stay tuned

[UCF YJ'r]

Originally Posted by northjeep

(dell2028 supplied this info):

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

Do you know how you can tell which ford 8.8 you have when you in the junk yard? the 28 spline vs the 31 spline. Also, how about if it had factory LSD, and I believe 98 and newer had the discs right?


Keep the posts up, this is a future install on my heep and I'd like to see it go all the way through!!

[northjeep]

Originally Posted by UCF YJ'r

Do you know how you can tell which ford 8.8 you have when you in the junk yard? the 28 spline vs the 31 spline. Also, how about if it had factory LSD, and I believe 98 and newer had the discs right?


Keep the posts up, this is a future install on my heep and I'd like to see it go all the way through!!

Mine has a tag on it:


on the bottom row of numbers the first 3 digits are 4 10 and if you look at the info here http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674123 that sorta contradicts what it should be...but I cracked open the pumpkin and manually verivied that it is infact a 4.10

here's a crap load more info on this:

Explorer 8.8 Measurements:
Weight (complete assembly w/ brakes etc.): 174 lb.
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30.
Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31.
Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250").
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
(The F-150 8.8 is drum brake and width WMS to WMS is 65.5”.)
Hole diameter for ABS sensor in top of housing: .811".
Bolt size (U-joint flange to yoke) is: 12 x 1.75 x 30 mm
Centerline of housing to C/L of pinion difference is 3.875" toward the P/S.
Pinion offset: P/S to C/L of Pinion, 27-3/4" (no rotor on axle), D/S to C/L of Pinion, 31-5/8" (no rotor on axle). (this measurement is 2.5" more offset to the P/S then a TJ Dana 35).

Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential

stay tuned!

[flame0086]

Originally Posted by UCF YJ'r

Do you know how you can tell which ford 8.8 you have when you in the junk yard? the 28 spline vs the 31 spline. Also, how about if it had factory LSD, and I believe 98 and newer had the discs right?


Keep the posts up, this is a future install on my heep and I'd like to see it go all the way through!!

From my understanding, 31 spline comes out of an explorer, 28 from mustangs and rangers.

[northjeep]

New parts arrived today:

The Spicer yoke adapter, M.O.R.E. 8.8 mounting brackets and e-brake cables:


And the AdvanceAdapters HD SYE kit:

[daaaaaan]

Nice thread....ive been looking for a thread like this since I plan on doing a 8.8 swap this summer!

[Tshark299]

My 35 broke close to home. I was checking my mail...the left side was in dirt, right side on pavement. When I took off I must have spun the left wheel a bit cuz when it caught the pavement...Boom. I would like to be clear on the fact that I was not "hot doggin", and I don't push my rig hard at all.
Turns out it's the spyder gears which are pooched in the tired 35.

I blew my D35 in similar fashion. I was pulling away from a stop sign on wet pavement with 30" all-terrain tires. I let out the clutch and BANG! spider gears for me too.

[Weekender1969]

Originally Posted by Tshark299

I blew my D35 in similar fashion. I was pulling away from a stop sign on wet pavement with 30" all-terrain tires. I let out the clutch and BANG! spider gears for me too.

You and northjeep got me wondering if mine is gonna survive this weekend. I plan on doing the first serious wheeling with it since I put the 31's on it. No worries though, I have all the 8.8 parts and such on hand .
Dale

[BudmanV6]

I just wanted to input for anyone else doing this make sure you use nickel rod to weld the differential to the tubes, and make sure you do it. Also, do it in sections, alternating around the axle allowing each section to cool and then connect them all. Also, buy MORE emergency brake cables is not neccessary. The stock yj ones work fine. You can trim some of the spring off the end of them, slip them into the e-brake slots on the explorer axle, and then connect the end of the cable to the actuator lever at the wheels with a small u-bolt style cable clamp from home depot.

[northjeep]

Originally Posted by BudmanV6

Also, buy MORE emergency brake cables is not neccessary. The stock yj ones work fine. You can trim some of the spring off the end of them, slip them into the e-brake slots on the explorer axle, and then connect the end of the cable to the actuator lever at the wheels with a small u-bolt style cable clamp from home depot.

yeah but A. it's ghetto and B. depending on where you get inspected it wont pass.