Ok so I am planning on locking the D30 and changing the vacuum system for a posi over my Christmas break and I have a couple of questions.
First of all, I am very interested in an aussie because it's so cheap and I have been told that in 2wd it is invisible on the road thanks to the YJs two piece axle shaft. Is this true?
Second, since the posi replaces the vacuum and is manually engaged, could I essentially have "2L" if I put the transfer case in low and not engage the posi? This would be great for me because I live in the mountains and it is hard to get the YJ moving when I'm facing uphill with 33s and the 2.5.
I searched around but read different things so I'm hoping someone that knows what they are talking about can give it to me straight. Thanks in advance :cheers2:
The aussie will be "invisible" on the road in 2 wheel drive. If you put the tcase in 4L and do not engage the posi lock, you will have 3 wheel drive. Your drivers front tire will still be pulling with or without the posi lock.
the locker will be invisible in 2h, however your front drive shaft will always be spinning now, so depending on its condition, it may have a slight vibe
without a front locker, and with a posi lok not engaged in 4L- yes you will have 2L, that actually is one of the manufacturers selling points
however, since your locking the front, the left side will always be engaged, an 2L wont be possible
Alright that makes sense, but since I would have "three wheel drive" without engaging the posi, would I still get the bucking/skipping feeling you get when you try to drive around in 4 on pavement?
Because I am constantly stopping and starting on mountain roads and with the 2.5 trying to get a set of 33s turning, while facing uphill, at high altitude, it really struggles hard and I have to burn the hell out of my clutch. But if I could put it in low to get started then it would be a lot easier. Just curious to see if this would work that's why I am asking.
I would LOVE to get a selectable locker, but they are a lot of $$ and I'm a broke college kid with a part time job haha, so those probably won't happen.
You could do the same thing with the vacuum actuator i believe. you would just have to flip the vacuum plug around on the 4wd actuator. that way when you pull the shifter back into 4lo the shift fork is still over to the left and not locking the axles. just remember to put it back the right way when you want 4x4.
My vacuum needs to be replaced anyway, it doesn't go into 4 half the time and then we I do get it in and need to go back to 2 it doesn't want to do that either. I pulled the plug off the actuator and one of the two little pipes is nice and shiny and the other is severely rusted and corroded. I'm assuming salty moisture got around the rubber and just started eating away at it.
if i am not wrong your still missing the point if you put a locker in the front unless you have a TC set up on a twin stick your still going to have atleast one tire in the front pulling.... i hae a locked up 30 with the cable mod replacing the vac. but no matter what if i pull it into 4h or 4l i have 3 tires getting power and you unless the back is locked too will have one in the front and one in the rear getting power, the only time i have both front tires powered is when i pull the cable and slide the fork over to ingage the pass side.. i would say get the locker do the cable mod and you can still start in 4l at the stop signs and not have the jerking if turning. i drive mine on the street and not notice it untill i pull the cable. if money is there might want to think about going to 4.88s to help the 2.5 more then the locker since it sounds like its your DD , this will be less wear and tear on the clutch and motor and tranny and youll see you gas mailage get better since your not having to work it as hard. yeah i know that the locker is cheaper but the gears i think would help you ALOT more then the locker.. just my .02:thumbsup:
if i am not wrong your still missing the point if you put a locker in the front unless you have a TC set up on a twin stick your still going to have atleast one tire in the front pulling.... i hae a locked up 30 with the cable mod replacing the vac. but no matter what if i pull it into 4h or 4l i have 3 tires getting power and you unless the back is locked too will have one in the front and one in the rear getting power, the only time i have both front tires powered is when i pull the cable and slide the fork over to ingage the pass side.. i would say get the locker do the cable mod and you can still start in 4l at the stop signs and not have the jerking if turning. i drive mine on the street and not notice it untill i pull the cable. if money is there might want to think about going to 4.88s to help the 2.5 more then the locker since it sounds like its your DD , this will be less wear and tear on the clutch and motor and tranny and youll see you gas mailage get better since your not having to work it as hard. yeah i know that the locker is cheaper but the gears i think would help you ALOT more then the locker.. just my .02:thumbsup:
Yeah that's what I'm looking for with this, I know that I'll still have 3 wheels turning but as long as it doesn't buck and skip then I'm cool with that.
And about the gearing suggestion, I'm sticking with the 4.10's because I've already started gathering parts for a 4.7 stroker swap planned for my summer vacation :2thumbsup:
do your home work on the stroker ,, i have been planning and getting parts here and there for a year now and almost ready to get it ready to drop in... jeepstrokers.com has alot of great info..... heads out keep a eye on ebay and find one of the mustang guys thats selling a set of injectors thats got one bad injector, its worthless to most of the other stang guys but a extra one for you, i got my set of 28# for 15 bucks and they are like new the guy broke one during install then optted to go with something different,, if you have the head start your port work and bowl blending now i took like 2 months and a 6pack a night sitting there just grinding away for a hour or two a night. also ill look up the part ## of the 2.02 1.60 ls1 i used..... :2thumbsup:
That sounds like the best 2 months ever haha, and yeah if you have any tips or suggestions about anything or any snags you ran into shoot me a pm it would be nice to have a heads up from someone that has done it already.
an open diff in the front would give you true four low with a cable disconnect but with a locker you wont get the buck and skip becuse that is created by one axel shaft spinning slower then the other and meeting resistence from the pave ment with the passenger side disconnected there will be no resistance the half shaft will just spin slower in the housing
an open diff in the front would give you true four low with a cable disconnect but with a locker you wont get the buck and skip becuse that is created by one axel shaft spinning slower then the other and meeting resistence from the pave ment with the passenger side disconnected there will be no resistance the half shaft will just spin slower in the housing
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